[RogerRabbit]

You should run a chaser through the block threads and blow them out to clean them up. Run the bolt threads over a motorized wire brush. like is on the same shaft with your grinder. Then a Blue Locktite on the threads which will keep the bolts tight and lube up the interface. more

[cindyr]

What I do is forget the torque spec. I get a socket with my hand midway on it and do the X pattern starting from the center and working out in both directions just snugging things up. Then a second trip and then a third trip where I put my max whoopie which is just good and tight with my hand where I said. You can do a lot of snugging up a little more, on an individual basis IF a leak should occur before you spend time and go through the laborous process of tearing the whole shebang apart trying to dig out stripped threads and drilling and taping for a helical coil. here

[Hansietorse3]

I don't put that gasket on dry. I coat both sides with a thin coating of blue RTV, let it air cure for 5 minutes or so and once buttoned up, let it sit up for a couple of days before using.

[Manjago]

Just www for torque specs for SAE bolts. Numbers can be for dirty, clean, or lubed threads. It matters. I think those bolts are 5/16 and for clean dry threads 20 ft-lbs is roughly the rating. That's for a grade 5 (3 marks on the head) but marine engines use SS which are much higher rating. The alum threads in the block will shear off and threads strip before you break the bolt from over torqueing.