sunny256
11.06.2021 6:43:26
Re: 225 HP Johnson Ocean Pro [links]
See full version: 225 HP Johnson Ocean Pro
Re: 225 HP Johnson Ocean Pro [links]
Nightstalker, the vro disconnect is very easy. Just do a search here and you will find the proceedure. I have a 1994 Evinrude 225 and I prefer to premix my fuel. I have had no problems. Great motor.
Thanks for all of your help. I'll take your advice on maintaining the VRO system.<br />Stalker more
Thanks for the tip. I've looked throught the site but have not been able to find one that explains how to disconnect my VRO. Can anyone point me to the sit?<br />Stalker
Wilxuout:<br />This is new to me. The VRO pump is under the engine shroud? What could be the purpose of the fitting into which the oil and gas hoses feed and only the gas hose feeds out of on the other side? I bought the boat from a used boat dealer who knew very little about it, that's why I want to be certain of the oil hookup before I give it a try.<br />Silver here
nightstalker <br />First Mate <br />Member # 35976 <br /><br /> posted December 24, 2003 04:17 PM <br />--------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />I bought a rig with a 1994 Johnson 225. I'm not sure if the VRO system is connected. The gas line and oil line from the oil holding tank both slip into a small square coupling with 4 nipples on it (2 on each side). The oil and gas line each go into the 2 nipples on the left of this connection but only the gas line is attached to one of the nipples on the other side. The nipple where I think the oil line to the engine would connect has a rubber fitting slid over it with a hole at the end. When I squeeze the bulb from the oil tank, oil shoots out of the end of the nipple. The oil tank is one half full. I'm afraid to run it without knowing if the system is working. Can anyone help me?<br />Stalker <br />--------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />Posts: 22 | Registered: Dec 2003 | IP: Logged <br /> <br />rickdb1boat <br />Admiral <br />Member # 9947 <br /><br /> posted December 24, 2003 04:44 PM <br />--------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />It is disabled. Pre-mix at 50:1.<br /><br />--------------------<br />Rick<br /><br />Boating is Life: All the Rest is Just Details<br /><br />--------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />Posts: 3735 | From: St. Louis | Registered: May 2002 | IP: Logged <br /> <br />nightstalker <br />First Mate <br />Member # 35976 <br /><br /> posted December 24, 2003 08:00 PM <br />--------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />Thanks Rick:<br />When the VRO was connected, was there an oil tube going from the nipple with the rubber cap that went to the oil side of the VRO? Can I take out the oil tank even though it's half full, or will the low oil warning horn go off?<br />Stalker <br />--------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />Posts: 22 | Registered: Dec 2003 | IP: Logged <br /> <br />rickdb1boat <br />Admiral <br />Member # 9947 <br /><br /> posted December 25, 2003 08:35 AM <br />--------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />Yes and Yes. You can remove the oil tank and associated lines. Asuuming the VRO electrical connector is still in place at the VRO, diconnect it or you will low oil alarms going off. It's a rubber looking plug with a spring retainer by the vro on the powerhead. Just remove the spring(if it's still there) and pull it loose. Tape it up with electrical tape. It will not affect the overheat horn in any way! Also, make sure the rubber cap on the nipple has some sort of clamp on it, so it does not come off and let contaminents into the fuel pump side of the pump. A zip tie will do. I'm betting that's why it was left half full in order to stop the low oil alarm from coming on. Apparently, he did not know the proper procedure for disconnecting the VRO. This is what I was told when I asked how to disable my VRO some time ago by a very sharp member:<br /><br />quote:<br />--------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br /> I know these engines pretty well and can finish up for you. Find the wiring harness that comes off the back of the VRO. Depending on the age of the pump it may have three or four wires, black, grey, tan and if it's a 4-wire, purple. The wires run to a round black rubber plug about 2" long & 3/4" in diameter. remove the spring-clip from it and un-plug it (it WILL be left disconnected or you will get false alarm signals). Next, find the 2 wires that run from the oil tank to the motor. Find the connectors and unplug them, pull the wires out of the cowl and remove the oil tank from the boat. Remember to premix at 50:1 and you're done.<br /><br />BTW - It's very important to inspect the capped oil fitting periodically. If the cap should fall off, it will allow contaminants to get into the pump and it will gum up and fail. If it ever does fail, there is a "premix conversion kit" for 3-cylinder & larger OMC motors (p/n 438402), that eliminates the oil pump section of the pump and cost about $100 less than a VRO.<br /><br />--------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br /><br />--------------------<br />Rick<br /><br />Boating is Life: All the Rest is Just Details<br /><br />--------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />Posts: 3735 | From: St. Louis | Registered: May 2002 | IP: Logged <br /> <br />Joe Reeves <br />OMC Guru <br />Member # 6826 <br /><br /> posted December 25, 2003 10:00 AM <br />--------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />NightStalker. NO offense intended but it appears to me that neither you or the dealer you bought the boat/engine from has any working knowledge of the mechanical aspects of the engine.<br /><br />Due to the above, I strongly suggest that you have a mechanic that is experienced in the OMC outboard line inspect the engine. Failure to do so may result in what might appear to you a small oversight, but would actually cause the destruction of the engine. (It happens!)<br /><br />Pertaining to eliminating the automatic fuel/oil mixture setup, the following may be of interest to you.<br /><br />********************<br />(VRO Changeover Judgement Call) <br />(J. Reeves)<br /><br />The VROs first came out in 1984 and have been upgraded quite a few times. In my opinion, back around 1988, they had perfected them but I think that they were upgraded even more since then. As long as the warning system is operating as it should, I feel quite at ease with them.<br /><br />Some boaters have voiced their thoughts such as "What if that overpriced plastic horn should fail while I'm under way for some reason, and the VRO decides to fail five minutes later?" Obviously that would result in a big problem which really brings their fears into view.<br /><br />The word "ease" is the key word though. If one has the slightest feeling of being ill at ease with that setup, then they should take the route they feel more at ease with. A judgement call each individual would need to make on their own.<br /><br />********************<br />(VRO Pump Conversion To Straight Fuel Pump)<br />(J. Reeves)<br /><br />You can convert the VRO pump into a straight fuel pump, eliminating the oil tank and VRO pump warning system, but retain the overheat warning setup by doing the following:<br /><br />1 - Cut and plug the oil line at the engine so that the oil side of the VRO pump will not draw air into its system. Trace the wires from the back of the VRO to its rubber plug (electrical plug) and disconnect it.<br /><br />2 - Trace the two wires from the oil tank to the engine, disconnect those two wires, then remove them and the oil tank.<br /><br />3 - Mix the 50/1 oil in the proper amount with whatever quanity fuel you have. Disconnect the fuel line at the engine. Pump the fuel primer bulb until fuel exits that hose with the tint of whatever oil you used. Reconnect the fuel hose.<br /><br />That's it. If you want to test the heat warning system to ease your mind, have the key in the on position, then ground out the tan heat sensor wire that you'll find protruding from the cylinder head. The warning horn should sound off.<br /><br />--------------------<br />Joe (30+ Years With OMC)<br /><br />ReevesJ32@aol.com [links]
Johnson produces outboard boat engines for freshwater and saltwater recreational watercraft. It is a division of Bombardier Recreational Products (BRP). Founded in 1942, BRP manufactures and distributes Sea-Doo watercraft and sport boats, Ski-Doo and Lynx snowmobiles and Rotax carts and engines, among other products. It acquired Johnson from OMC in March of 2001 after the latter filed for bankruptcy. Johnson produced three 175-hp outboard motors in 1996. They were the 175-hp Intruder, the 175-hp Faststrike and the 175-hp Oceanrunner. The differences in the three engines were primarily aesthetic rather than mechanical.
The 1996 175-hp Oceanrunner was also a six-cylinder, two-stroke engine with a spline count of 15. [links]
The 1996 175-hp Faststrike was a six-cylinder, two-stroke engine with a spline count of 15. here
Re: 1996 ocean pro 175 problems more
yep and yep. the motor runs fine if i start it everyday and it will only do this problem of not starting when i let it sit for about a week. if it would be the needles and floats it would start but idle like crap, and not run well like i stated that is not the problems. then to even get her to pop i have to hand choke one of the carbs. that is even when pumping the bulb and hitting the electric primer on the key. also we have discovered that the primer must be it because i have no click when i press the key in right now. [links]
yea that is what i meant. i am using the champion plug that it recommended. but yes exactly it with pop like it wants to start then will die. will only get it to pop with the hand over the carb. can you give me a pn for the primer setup on this motor i was trying to find it but had no luck. i figured that was the problem but like i said i had limited time to check it out in detail.
When you say it won't "pop over" and "nothing happens" it sounds like you mean it won't turn over with the key but I think you mean it turns over but won't start.
Before ordering, please select the appropriate model from the list above and check for any price adjustments. more
There is no additional core charge. For those models with a core value, a core return label will be sent with the replacement powerhead, at which point the original powerhead can be returned for inspection. If the core passes inspection, a refund check of up to the amount listed above will be issued to the buyer; otherwise, the core will be scrapped and not returned. [links]
This listing is for a Remanufactured Johnson/Evinrude 150/175 HP 60° Carbureted V6 Powerhead, which will fit the following models:
All the cylinders have been bored to a maximum of .030, the pistons, rings, wristpins, and all bearings have been replaced, and the powerhead has been repainted. The Displacement of this powerhead measured in Cubic Inches is 158.