[Xaxo]

1. the beep beep beep sound is an alarm for oil injection system failure. (low oil/no rotation of oil pump shaft) 2. 1989-2005 merc v6 outboards have an oil injection pump that is driven off a plastic gear located inside the engine block. 3. These plastic gears can fail at anytime. 4. if you get the alarm and you find a stripped gear you have the following options. a. fix gear at a cost of about $1200 (and wait for failure) b. block off oil injection pump and pre-mix fuel c. buy an aftermarket electric oil injection pump and install on motor. more

[Harmton]

I have decided to buy the electric oil injection pump and have it installed. [links]

[Dave Kimble]

I wanted to let everyone know. in case you hear that sound. I'd recommend not running the engine until you resolve the source of problem (oil pump gear, sensor issue.)

[judcrews666]

here

[romkyns]

Resistance: Determined in Ohms (R or O), resistance defines just how quickly electrons can flow with a material. Products such as gold or copper, are called conductors, as they conveniently enable circulation of movement (low resistance). Plastic, wood, as well as air are instances of insulators, preventing the motion of electrons (high resistance). here

[smokelesscigs124]

AC (Alternating Present). In Air Conditioner, the flow of current regularly rotates in between 2 directions, frequently creating a sine wave. The frequency of A/C is determined in Hertz (Hz), and is usually 60 Hz for electrical power in domestic and also company purposes. [links]

[piotrp]

The Schematics

[Lord Jebe]

A first check out a circuit layout may be complicated, however if you can check out a metro map, you could check out schematics. The objective coincides: receiving from point A to aim B. Literally, a circuit is the course that allows electrical power to circulation. If you recognize what to try to find, it ll come to be acquired behavior. While in the beginning you ll simply read them, ultimately you will certainly begin producing your own. This overview will reveal you a few of the typical symbols that you make certain to see in your future electric design job.

[rebuilder]

Let s look at some of terms that you will certainly require to know:

[tannerped]

The problem with this system is that it is not very well understood by most shops. The system will often give false signals, and it is invariably incorrectly traced to the most expensive part of the system: The computer, which is almost NEVER bad. The usual culprit is one of the switches or the more elaborate wiring to them on the engine and on the back of the instrument cluster. The most cost effective way to fix a system that is giving false warning is to replace both switches and the harness on the engine (no longer available from VW, so we make new ones: see below). If after doing so the system is still sounding off, it’s time to check the oil pressure with a gage. If the pressure checks out okay, you might want to replace the printed circuit board with the improved high-volume oil pump kit.

[tddk]

The main reason the computer is replaced first is, quite simply, because it's the easiest thing to replace. In order to replace it, you first have to remove the instrument cluster (read this article for instructions about removing the instrument cluster). Then, remove the electrical plug from the back of the speedometer. Be very, very careful: DO NOT pull on the printed circuit foil. Instead, carefully pry the PLASTIC PLUG with a small screw driver. Remove the four screws that hold the speedometer in place, flip it over, and you will see how the control unit snaps into place. more

[mustvisit]

The oil pressure switches are a bit more difficult. The one that makes the light come on at engine speeds ABOVE idle (the high pressure switch) is the one back by the water pump. Getting to that one requires the removal of the V-belts. That switch screws into a steel adapter that, in turn, screws into the engine block. Sometimes the adapter comes out with the switch, and you have to transfer it over to the new switch.

[osjak]

All VW vans have a red oil warning light. Contrary to common belief, the oil warning light has nothing to do with oil level. I get calls from people all the time who remark that their oil light is on, but they just checked the oil level with the dip stick and it was fine. That is not the way this warning system works. Rather, the red light comes on when the oil PRESSURE drops too low as determined by an oil pressure switch installed on the engine. No VW van ever came from the factory with an oil pressure gauge or oil level indicator, just a low oil pressure warning light. here

[Symbiosis]

One-switch system found on 1984-85 models:
When the engine is not running and there is no oil pressure at all, with the ignition switch in the ON position, the oil pressure warning light comes on. The red indicator gets its positive signal from the battery through the ignition switch. It gets its ground signal through the oil pressure switch, which is normally closed when no pressure is present. As soon as the engine starts and the oil pressure comes up, the switch opens at between 2 and 5 PSI, breaking the ground circuit to the idiot light, and it goes out. Whether the engine has one or five quarts does not matter. If there is enough oil in the engine to fill the oil filter plus around half a quart, the oil pressure will come up and stay up. The first time you go around a curve and the oil sloshes to one side in the engine, the oil pump will suck air instead of oil, the pressure will drop, and the light will flash, sometimes without being noticed. This is not a good situation and can lead to rapid engine seizure. Whenever the oil pressure light comes on, it is cause for concern and action IMMEDIATELY. An oil level indicator would be a much better measure of problems to come, of the better-pull-over-and-check-it-out-soon variety. But the oil pressure light means: "STOP, YOU HAVE NO PRESSURE, ENGINE FAILURE IS SECONDS AWAY." Really, this is what it means. It is like your heart stopping in your chest. more

[davux]

By the way, the SystemCheck® can be adapted (with accessory kit P/N 176709) to any engine with a four-wire VRO pump. [For more information on the SystemCheck upgrade kit, please see a separate article and discussion.>Even better, there's a new VRO (OMS) pump that can be used to upgrade all the previous years and model outboards. The new pump (P/N 500455 contains various fittings for different outboards, and each internal part is replaceable for easier and less expensive servicing. Part number 5004559 updates all early three-wire VRO's except those found on the two-cylinders. For those outboards, kit number 5004562 is used. OMC also makes a wiring harness adapter (P/N 174710) for the 1984 and 1985 engines that did not have any warning systems. Each OMC (VRO) kit contains the parts needed including a new pulse limiter to install the system correctly.

[tabshift]

SERVICING Since 1991, the OMC factory service manuals include a troubleshooting chart and a section on how to test, take apart, and service the VRO pumps. Besides Torx screwdrivers, you will need a pressure and a vacuum source to test the integrity of the check valves and diaphragms. CDI Electronics' #551-34PV gearcase vacuum/pressure tester work well, as does a SnapOn YA-4000 or the old Stevens pumps.

[peterwhite88]

The oil pump is directly connected to the fuel pump piston (orange) and diaphragm so they work in tandem. As with the fuel pump, oil (yellow) is drawn in through the inlet fitting and a check valve as the air motor starts its travel. On the return stroke, the oil pressurizes, exits directly into the fuel chamber (blue area), and is blended while enroute to the carbs. here

[NegativeOne]

Since the VRO depends on crankcase pulses to operate, it is susceptible to backfires from a lean running cylinder or an out of tune engine. If your motor is older than a 1993, make sure it has the blue colored pulse limiter to protect the air motor and the check valves in the pump. Follow the pulse line from the VRO to the engine block and look for a hex shaped fitting threaded into the crankcase. If it has a black face on it, replace it with a blue style (OMC P/N 435009). The crossflow V-6's have a pulse limiter with a fitting at each end and spliced in line with the VRO to crankcase hose. The inline replacement is OMC P/N 435010. [links]

[qqi456]

The mechanic of the second guy's neighbor (2) did not understand that the VRO mixes the fuel and oil internally then delivers the mixture through the fuel lines to each of the carbs. Since each carb receives the same oil to gas ratio, the VRO cannot cause only two cylinders to fail. Since the VRO did not malfunction, there was no alarm to sound.

[Lord Juan]

If an oil tank is exposed to the elements such as in an open boat, installing the tank inside a covered battery box will protect it from spray. You can also replace the clear plastic cap with the later model's solid black filler cap (OMC P/N 176217) that provides much better water intrusion resistance. The oil line should be OMC's 1/4-inch I.D. inner "rubber" hose (OMC P/N 333485) without any splices. Early systems had a smooth vinyl oil line that hardened after a few years and sometimes caused air leaks. (Some installations even had 5/16-inch fuel line squeezed down over the smaller fittings.) These air leaks can also trigger "NO OIL" alarms, commonly at startup, idle, and trolling speeds. [links]