[johnyh]

It doesn't take a very big piece of debris to plug a carb jet, lean it out and fry a cylinder or at the very least require a carb or injector cleaning. Before I installed the fuel/water separator I would drain my carbs and sometimes get a small bit of trash/water out of float chamber and there was also always some trash/water in my engine mounted filter/screen. After I installed the fuel/water separator, there is nothing at all in the carbs or engine mounted filter/screen, it's all getting stopped before it ever gets there. I really like that! Call it dirt cheap preventive maintenance and the darn Walmart fuel/water separator is only $27! Good Luck!

[redroses]

Regular StaBil is a fuel stabilizer and does not represent that it serves other functions. It should be added to fresh fuel at the time of purchase.

[DrWatson]

Install the fuel/water separator, drain carb a couple of times a year, use Stabil Marine all the time, eliminate the fuel problems before they happen! My Yamaha 90HP is a 1999 model and never had any fuel problems, carbs never been cleaned. What can you say, it works! I really have had excellent results with the Walmart fuel/water separator for my carbed motor. If I ran an injected motor like a HPDI or other with all the extra pumps, filters and injectors then I would invest in a Racor or Yamaha 10 micron or even 2 micron filter because I believe those motors stand to gain greatly from that extra level of filtration. Good Luck! [links]

[carol88miller]

If you have a Yamaha four-stroke outboard, you should understand the engine's fuel filter. Actually, fuel filters - there's a number of filters, both inside and outside of the engine. One of these you can service yourself, which our Yamaha tech will explain. But the others are buried beneath the outboard cowl, and pose their own set of problems. To learn more about Yamaha four-stroke outboard fuel filter maintenance, check out the video.
here

[teknohog]

Do you know how to change the fuel filter on a Yamaha four-stroke outboard? Do you know where the internal filters are located? A Yamaha tech walks us through fuel filter maintenance on a four-stroke. here

[renedfuller84]

Of course, fuel filters are just one item you have to be aware of. If you're running a boat with an outboard engine, here are some other videos you might be interested in:

[bitplane]

[jimmyrdavenport]

[links]

[The Script]

The correct fuel filter element part number for listed models is 68V-24563-00-00 (68V245630000). Part number 68V-24563-00-00 applies to the follow years and model engines. here

[Bartke]

Part numbers for fuel filter elements and gaskets, as well as fuel filter disassembly and assembly procedures apply to the models listed below. here

[Stahovec Jeffrey]

We have provided a .pdf diagram of the fuel filter. The parts diagram will help you identify where the fuel filter is located and how it is assembled and how to remove the fuel filer.

[derka]

It is important to replace the fuel filter cup O-ring when replacing the fuel filter element. The part number for the fuel filter cup O-ring is 6D8-24564-00-00. The fuel filter cup O-ring is also referred to fuel filter cup gasket. Since the O-ring, gasket deforms over time, it is critical you replace it as proper sealing cannot be achieved a second time.

[Bitcoinz]

Inspect the fuel filter more frequently if the outboard is subjected to harsh conditions or if the motor is operated frequently. To check the fuel filter, inspect the fuel filter cup and fuel filter element for leaks, cracks or clogs, replace if needed. If foreign matter is present, clean the filter. [links]

[Hooquai8]

I was going down the lake at WOT and the engine started backing down to near idle speed. I put the motor in neutral as it continued to run and then was able to throttle back up, for approximately 50 feet before it throttled down and died. I turned it off. I am a novice (first boat). I checked the batteries (ok), fuel (ok), spark plugs (ok and tight) and oil (ok in reserve tank). I was under the impression that the oil in the reserve tank went directly to the engine, I didn't know that another tank was fed from the reserve tank, therefore, didn't check the oil in the tank mounted on engine (unfortunately). I put the cowling back on, started it up and it was running rough, but running. When I put it in gear, it would die. I then started it with about medium throttle in neutral, and it sounded very rough and would die when I put it in neutral to then put into gear. I took the cowling back off and traced the oil line because it sounded like something wasn't getting oiled. Discovered the oil tank on the engine and saw that it was empty. After I finished cussing, I put oil in the tank directly. I started it up in neutral and let it run to try and lube it up. Progressively over the next minute, the engine started sounding much better. Let it idle for 5-10 minutes. Kicked it in gear and off we went. [links]

[gemmaljh]

I had this same problem (2003 150HP 2-stroke) Sunday with the reservoir on the engine running dry with plenty in the reserve reservoir. To fix it, I just poured oil directly into the engine reservoir. However, the engine was run with this reservoir completely empty. [links]

[dabbad]

Re: Help - Yamaha 2 stroke oil reservoir issue here

[checkmark91]

Re: Help - Yamaha 2 stroke oil reservoir issue more

[brocktice]

However, when we stopped some time later the engine wouldn't turn over. Check oil and it was ok. Primed bulb and tried again. Nothing. Waited about 10 minutes and it fired up. Had the same thing happen one other time. This is intermittent, as sometimes it fires right up. [links]

[octopus]

There is a small in-line oil filter mounted on the remote reservoir tank, and is the likely culprit if the pump is operating correctly. It is in-expensive and easy to fix yourself. It won't show any obvious signs of being clogged.

[Kaporen]

To keep your Yamaha HPDI pump in good working order and extend the lifespan of the pump considerably send it to us for maintenance. here

[kita59]

Keep in mind that none of the parts are available for purchase from either Yamaha or in the aftermarket. Damage to any one of these parts will render the HPDI pump worthless.

[davidsoul434]

The “Reed valve” plate is housed between two other plates. It is bidirectional thus controlling both intake and outlet. The reed plates make a metal to metal seal and has to be kept clean of debris at all times. Debris inside this area of the pump will cause the reeds not to seat properly thus causing bleed down of the pump.

[silverkknd]

Each pump unit has two small ball valves that is kept on its seat with a tiny spring. Removing the so called mystery filter form the pump will cause dirt and debris to settle inside the pump on the ball valve seats. Since the ball valve assemblies are so small and the tolerances so tight it does not take much to cause the ball not to seat properly on the seat. [links]

[herblevictoria]

We don’t just remove and replace the “mystery filters”. We disassemble the pump completely. Thoroughly inspect the internals, component by component . Then clean the pump body and all relevant components ultrasonically. We hand-lap those components that does require so. If all components are clean and meet specification we reassemble and when assembly is complete we test to make sure that your Yamaha High Pressure Direct Injection Pump is working as it is supposed to do. here

[pyrrhos]

We receive calls on a regular basis asking about the Yamaha HPDI mystery filters and if as mentioned on forums, it is a good idea to remove the filters completely. The answer is simple, replace them with new ones but DO NOT REMOVE THE FILTERS….EVER! more