hebrew15
15.06.2021 2:08:48
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If you are at an office or shared network, you can ask the network administrator to run a scan across the network looking for misconfigured or infected devices. [links]
If you are on a personal connection, like at home, you can run an anti-virus scan on your device to make sure it is not infected with malware. here
Cloudflare Ray ID: 687acb050f1b1667 • Your IP : 46.32.66.208 • Performance & security by Cloudflare [links]
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Step 3 - A fan blower motor is controlled by either a switch in the passenger compartment or by a computer. If this fan motor is starting to fail it will cause the fan motor to run at a lower speed resulting in low air flow. To test this condition an amp meter is needed, connect the meter lead to the power wire of the fan motor. With the fan motor on in the full speed setting the amp meter should read between 8 and 15 amps. Anything lower than 8 amps could mean the fan motor has shorted and is not operating at full output.
Step 1 - Most air control vents are equipped with a flow control door that is located at the vent outlet. This door is controlled by a thumb wheel that when activated will open and close the vent air flow door. Work the thumb wheel from one side to the other while checking the airflow. The flow should stop and start again, if the thumb wheel does not make a difference the problem is somewhere else.
Step 2 - Most cars are equipped with a cabin air filter or hepa filter. These filters are designed to clean the air before it exits the air vent. If this filter becomes clogged due to lack maintenance it will stop or slow the flow of air exiting the vents. To check this filter locate the filter housing which can be either under the dash on the passenger side or under the hood of the car, near the base of the windshield on the passenger side, remove the cabin air filter and inspect. [links]
Step 4 - There are two air intakes for the ventilation system, one fresh air the other is re-circulated air. If these air intakes become plugged by a piece of paper, cloth or other form of blockage it will slow or stop the airflow. Inspect both external and internal air intakes located at the base of the windshield (external) and at the passenger side foot well (internal). here
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This 1999-2005 Hyundai Sonata radiator is a direct OEM replacement for your old stock unit. There is no need to bend, cut, or modify anything to ensure a proper fitment in your vehicle. This radiator features OEM spec plastic end tanks attached to an aluminum core for stock cooling efficiency. At some point the inevitable happens to original stock radiators. They either spring a leak, get clogged up, or a plastic inlet or outlet cracks due to years of constant clamp pressure. This 1999-2005 Hyundai Sonata Replacement Radiator radiator is a perfect replacement to keep your cooling system in top notch shape, and just like all Mishimoto parts, comes with the Mishimoto Lifetime Warranty.
GTIN: 00748354034035
Material: Plastic/Aluminum
Prop 65 – Short Label: prop65_warning.jpg
Prop 65 (C, R or CR): CR
Prop 65 Yes/No: Yes
Emissions : Emission verification to be determined in ACES, vehicle application data.
Life Cycle Status: Available To Order
Well after getting my 2002 Sonata Back from the shop for the 4th time, Hyundai has concluded that the problems I have had with it are normal and in spec for this car. The problems are [links]
As was explained to me, it's a simple job: it should go pretty quickly. [links]
1) 2-3 flare shift when first driven that sometimes jerks your head back.
2) When vehicle is slowing down and you put your foot back on the gas it will ALWAYS make a loud clunking sound when in second gear. It is so loud you can hear it over the stereo and you feel the clashing of the gears aswell. I have been told to change my driving style so it will not happen as much. However every morning in stop and go traffic it occurs 15 times atleast!.
3) Vibration of entire steering column during full throttle acceleration in first gear. The wheel shakes so bad when the engine revs up because tranny mounts or steering rack is loose. I was told it is torque steer but that is BS. Torque steer is when the wheel goes side to side as the tires grab but this is the steering coloumn vibrating back and forth like a blender.
I have given Hyundai 18 days of shop time and 4 tries to fix my car. They have essentially told me to take them to the CAMVAP arbitration. I have initiated this and hopefully they decide in my favour and make Hyundai buy back the car. This is Canada's form of a lemon law that doesent involve lawyers. I have documents from third party mechanics and now transmission specialists that agree the transmission is faulty. Actually one of Hyundai's people told me that they know there is a problem where there is too much slack or play in the transmission and this is leading to the problem. [links]
I was looking for the rough shifting, but it hasn't happened. I can say that it drives smoother today than the first day. This could be from the car and driver getting used to each other. The Shiftronic transmission feature, though hardly used, is fun when you do want to play. I only really use it for a little more performance off the line. I've already mentioned that the acceleration and ride are great. The 4 wheel disc brakes are great too.
Whether it is the Michelin tires or the whole package, I had more confidence and control in my Sonata during a downpour on the highway than in any other car I've driven. It was noisy during the downpour though. The splash of the water on the underside made a racket.
This comes from the "for what it's worth" department. After the installation of my custom stereo, my Sonata's AC was decidedly not pumping cool air. It was a real downer, and like sonatabean I was quite disheartened by the situation.
Car is now cold, I am happy, and the repair was under warranty cuz dampers just ain't supposed to "self-adjust" over time. [links]