[praxeologist]

The idea is to replace/extend the house bank with a more capable AGM or lithium battery. Especially with the lithium option, I could connect a battery-to-battery charger to the circuit powered by the alternator and separately charge the house battery (naturally isolated from loads during charging). This would have the benefit of driving the alternator with a much higher output current and thus charging the battery system much faster than currently while the engine is running. The max alternator output is 50A - the charger would provide a charging current of 30A (some additional efficiency losses would need to be factored in). Sterling makes excellent chargers and I would probably use this one: https://www.svb24.com/en/sterling-pr. y-charger.html

[S3052]

4) I might occasionally run the engine three hours in a row, possibly even longer. It is not typical to run for very long periods at high RPM, time to time it will drop below 2000 RPM, and sometimes will stay there for a while. Would sufficient output at low RPM be an issue, sometimes I'll run the engine at idle RPM (or off gear). The Sterling charger provides some handy functions such as automatically switching off when the input voltage is low, or the charge current can be set to 1/2 normal in case there are issues. Or the charger could just be disconnected in unusually problematic cases. [links]

[ShadowOfHarbringer]

3) Will it mess up the function of the Yamaha regulator. The charger as I understand would be no different from the other loads such as boat electronics, and is not very sensitive to input voltage, so the regulator can provide whatever voltage it feels happy with - only the current consumed would be quite high. [links]

[ontarioloans]

Remove the engine cover and locate your stator. It is directly on top of your motor's block, near the spark plugs and points. Check that the stator plate is secure; tighten if necessary with a socket set. more

[binarysecurity]

Place the positive (red) end of your meter's probe against the blue wire connected to your stator.

[kathlemith24]

Remove your negative battery cable. more

[thefranksteak]

Set your multimeter to the "Ohms" setting and turn the power on. [links]

[kavindave26]

Long live American manufacturing! [links]

[caulinda87]

I’ll go out on a limb, and say since you have a rectifier, you should have a charging capability. I would think that the wires should be already connected inside the harness. Does you rectifier have a red (positive) ”hot” wire connected to it? If so, it should charge while running… probably a very small output though. Maybe the extra leads are an AC lighting option? I’ve never seen one of those engines so I guess I’m not much help.. here

[brigitte2378sack]

Motor was made by Suzuki, but imported by Arctic cat until Arctic cat went bankrupt, then Suzuki began selling in North America. here

[jayrod]

The following images are what i have from the manual on the electrical system.

[snowball]

Thanks for the input guys. To be honest I havent looked at the motor since it went into storage in the fall. Hard to remember exactly where the wires are I just know they are inside the cowl, plus I have my regular battery terminal leads. I’ll try to get picture of where the wires come and go from today. [links]

[sethsethseth]

I have the above motor, which has electric start. While the motor is running and the battery connected will it provide a charge to the battery? Or do i have to run another set of wires from say like the rectifier or something? Inside the cowling there is 2 leads with bullet connectors that come off the rectifier i believe but they don’t attach to anything.

[Stephen Gornick]

Do you have the old analogue rpm gauge, does it work? It can be indicator of charging problems on some engines, Can you fit a flat battery (say 12v) to number 2 , then switch to it. IMO it's hard to assume what's going on for certain at the battery until the differential is large and the alternator/regulator knows this and decides to do something about it..or not.

[nadav001]

start the motor and check the battery terminal voltage. depending on how quickly you get there. it may be a little lower from the cranking. but the battery voltage should slowly increase. if the charging circuit is working it should soon be over 13 volts. over time it should increase to the maximum charging voltage which will vary depending on charging system. [links]

[akaz456]

firstly. what is the charge capacity of your motor. how many amps will it deliver. and what is the specified charge voltage?

[zzxswqq]

Ok, after diagnostics last night, I have also determined that my starter motor is not up to scratch either! Even after getting a full new brush plate last week. However, that is another matter.

[iziHost.tk]

Yep no worries, I've heard that the no battery thing is a no-go. Thanks heaps mate, I will try your test method this afternoon and see what I get I have ordered the Seloc Manual today from a book store in the states. $42 delivered express international air mail A lot better than $74 in a bookshop here! Only problem is the wait that I have to receive it! However, thanks heaps for the tips on how to diagnose whether I am getting any charge at all! It will give me a good heading in the right direction anyway! I will update on how I go. [links]

[charlestaylor142]

You can also partly flatten the batterys before the test as this will give a better indication of what charge the alternator is capable of providing.