DjeZAeL
12.05.2021 5:15:41
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Grob Standard Spline Shafting has been designed to maximize torsional strength and contact area. Grob’s cold rolled spline shafts are made with an even number of teeth and are parallel over two or more teeth. When your project requires mating parts, look no further. more
For your convenience we have off the shelf mating broached sleeves and flanged bushings to match our Grob Standard Spline shafts. We also offer custom broaching of your parts to match with our Grob Standard Splines.
To renew the UJ bellows you will either have to remove the drives or separate the upper drive housing from the intermediate housing.
At 60 kg, the sterndrives are heavy and awkward, however I usually remove the drives each year so I can clean, antifoul and top up with oil in the comfort of my garage at home.
Undo the bolts to the steering helmet clamp (6 mm allen key or hex socket) and remove the clamp by screwing in the long coverplate screw.
Push the steering helmet up as far as it will go.
The engine is a remanufactured (not rebuilt) VP 572 with 350 hours. I know little about the sterndrive other than it is a 290 duoprop and has not given the previous owner any trouble (no leaks, no water, etc). It has not been rebuilt in the last 4-5 years, so presumably there are at least 500 hours on the sterndrive. here
The owner has changed the outdrive and engine oil religiously at 100 hours, but it's older.
I'm looking at a boat with a Volvo 572 combined with a 290 duoprop sterndrive. I've always had outboards, so I'm looking for some guidance on what to look for when I inspect the boat. Does anyone have experience with these combos than can offer me some pointers? here
I guess the biggest question (very difficult to answer) is how much risk am I taking on by buying an older outdrive coupled with this motor. Having never owned a sterndrive, I'm also curious about the maintenance intervals, and how often they need to be rebuilt (also a difficult and subjective question).
That's what I did David using a long socket extension and a socket that was small enough to fit in the recess on the face of the pins (so you don't damage the outer surface that has to slide through the hole in the shield). It'll pop out the inside of the shield but not far enough to allow you to take out the drive as the bellows keep the pin pushed in to the shield. To remove them fully, press the pin by hand against the bellow using the socket on the extension again (formally named Le Rigid Extracteur Tool ), whilst simultaneously putting downward pressure on the pin with another socket extension. it'll drop to the floor by doing so. here
If I want to take the outdrive off, what's the best tool to remove the large pins connecting the drive to the shield?
I know that the Volvo Penta special tool 885148-7 is available, and in stock for only £177.84, but would something like a slide hammer work?
You'll have fun getting them back in, a pig to realign. You'll also have fun aligning the splines on the drive to the corresponding splines on the engine. There's a knack to both here