arturekert02
21.06.2021 0:13:11
These are just a few of the common uses of 5200, however, it is used in just about every way imaginable when it comes to sealing or bonding:
See full version: 3M 5200 Marine Sealant
These are just a few of the common uses of 5200, however, it is used in just about every way imaginable when it comes to sealing or bonding:
3M 5200 is a crucial member of any boater's lineup. 5200 is an adhesive and sealant that is very nearly permanent, flexible, durable, and water tight. It is typically used for thru-hull applications such as sealing around a thru-hull fitting, sealing a hole left by a screw, or as a seal and adhesive for a transom motor bracket.
If you're looking for something a little less permanent for top side work (above the waterline), take a look at 3M 4200 which is still quite permanent and polyurethane based or 3M 3200 which is silicone based and non-bonding. This is IMPORANT. Many people use 5200 when 4200 or 3200 would be more than enough. Remember, 5200 is about as permanent as it gets, it's bonding properties are among the strongest imaginable, and it's very messy to work with. For crucial thru-hull or structural bonding, it can't be beat. However, to seal the screw holes for the light switch on the console will be alright with 3200. You'll save yourself a lot of headache when the switch goes out the next time.
3M provides a great table for selecting between the 3 options, [1] and we are maintaining our own version on Boatpedia called the 3M Marine Sealant Selection Guide. However, at a quick glance main qualities of 5200 are listed below. more
There is no difference in permanence or strength of 5200 vs 5200 Fast Cure. The main difference is just the price. In fact, on 3M's website often times 5200 FC is listed as a best choice where normal 5200 is listed as an okay choice.
Re: how soon can i paint 3m 5200?
Re: how soon can i paint 3m 5200?
5200 must be fully cured before painting or the paint will more than likely not cure. Someone else posted here recently that they had tried this and couldn't get their paint to cure. If you used the standard and not the fast cure it takes 8 to 14 days to cure.
This topic was related to 3M 4200, but I suspect you'd have the same poor results if you did not let it cure long enough: Mini news flash re 3m 4200
No, I don’t have any proof that the stuff don’t-work-worth-a-damn, but the gun doth smoke. No tube of 5200 will ever touch Morgan’s Cloud, at least as long as I’m around to protect her from the diabolical stuff. here
Yea, I know, it’s available in every marine store and is much loved by some. And I certainly don’t blame the member who mentioned it…but I do hate the stuff.
So there it is. Use whatever you like, but if it’s 5200, don’t bring it near me as I tend to react instinctively by throwing it into deep water, and the stuff is expensive and probably a pollutant too.
But maybe not. Since then I have spoken with several experienced managers who won’t allow the stuff past the gates of their boatyards because they have had the same sort of experiences. more
I really don’t know why 5200 leaked on my old boat. Perhaps it’s not a good idea to have a bedding compound that sticks too aggressively? Perhaps that causes fractures as the boat flexes? I really don’t know. (Do any of you engineers have a theory? If so, please leave a comment, I would simply love to know.) here
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I applied the Anti-Bond as directed on its spray bottle. Afterwards, I waited about 10 minutes (per directions on the label), and then began scraping with the end of a paint-stirring stick. The results were so encouraging that I hit the adhesive with a second liberal shot of Anti-Bond and found that, within maybe five minutes or so, I’d removed all the adhesive material I’d treated.
But before we get into all that, let me toss out three, worthy disclaimers. First, as noted above, 3M Fast Cure 4000 is a polyether, not polyurethane adhesive, meaning it is perhaps slightly different than, say, 3M 5200 but still wickedly strong and resilient. Indeed, once I’d removed the four quarter-inch bolts that secured the flanges of the (in my opinion, unsightly…hence my decision to remove it) outboard-motor mount shown at the beginning of this post, I had to discombobulate the mount, pull sideways on each individual stainless-steel leg, applying all my strength and weight (I’m a reasonably healthy, 165-pound, six-footer), and only then did each leg eventually pop loose, uncovering the strip of adhesive still clinging vengefully to the gel coat underneath it. Second, both Anti-Bond and Un-Hesive are advertised as polyurethane-specific. It’s conceivable that a polyether shootout did not give both products a fair shake. And third, directions for using the poor performer stated, “For vertical surfaces (like the transom of a small sailboat) cover with a piece of plastic to trap the liquid.” This suggestion seemed a bit iffy to me. I was concerned that leakage around the plastic pocket might somehow damage the sailboat’s gel coat. So I went instead with simply spraying one adhesive strip with one product and the other strip with the second. [links]
If you’ve been around a while, you’ve heard the old saw: Once you stick stuff together with 3M 5200 (or any of the other one-part polyurethanes or polyether adhesives on the marine scene these days), there’s no going back. Not unless you want to tear your boat up or flat-out destroy somethin’. And yeah, there’s often a lot of truth to the various saws you hear from folks, which I guess is why the darn things (the saws, not the folks) get to be old.
Paranoid? Well, maybe. But the sailboat in question is virtually new and the products I was testing were untried and unfamiliar to me. Check out the above photo. To keep the boat’s gel coat safe, I went so far as to surround the two adhesive strips with a couple of layers of protective varnishing tape and, on top of that, a layer of plain ol’ duct tape.
Notice that I say one. I cranked up this project with an ulterior motive. While I, of course, wanted to accomplish the adhesive-removal task, I also wanted to parenthetically compare two de-bonding agents (see photo above) that are fairly popular these days, namely West Marine’s Anti-Bond 2015, around for years now, and Un-Hesive (www.un-hesive.com), the new kid on the block. And guess what—only one product performed well. The other? [links]
But hey, sometimes, you really,really, really need to break the fabled bond that can’t be broken. Or you need to remove a chunk of poly-insubordinate goop that simply can’t, can’t, can’t remain where it is. And, should that desperate day arrive for you, I’ve got a whiff of provisionally good news, based on what I recently discovered while attempting the damage-free removal of two thick strips of 3M Fast Cure 4000 UV polyether adhesive from the transom of a small sailboat.