psyvenrix
30.04.2021 18:02:59
Re: 1986 6hp johnson dies at idle speed
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Re: 1986 6hp johnson dies at idle speed
The knob surrounding the kill switch is the idle speed adjustment! Turning it clockwise increases the idle speed and vice versa. It is quite a fine adjustment, needing quite a bit of turning to produce much change in speed. [links]
Re: 1986 6hp johnson dies at idle speed [links]
If you lose spark on one cylinder as per your statement of "it stops firing on top cylinder". this is the place to start your repairs, not switch over to fooling with the carburetor. When throttling down, the armature plate (plate points are on) rotates and as it does, it's very possible that a plug wire is faulty and shorting or to the bottom of the armature plate or to the block as the wire flexs.
If a wobble exists.
(Magneto Armature Plate)
(J. Reeves)
If the armature plate has a a loose fitting, wobbling motion (the plate that the points, coils etc are attached to), it is usually caused by a slightly worn support ring. This allows the point setting to change erratically as the armature plate turns.
When an outboard motor runs at speed but cannot hold an idle, it usually indicates a problem with the carburetor. Outboard motor designs vary depending on make and model, but all operate on similar principles. Consult your owner's manual to check items that may be unique to your motor. Most manuals come with a troubleshooting guide specific to the product.
Check and adjust the outboard motor's idle settings. Consult your owner's manual -- different models adjust differently. Some simply have an adjustable screw that will set the idle higher or lower. Others require an adjustment directly on the carburetor. In some models, setting the idle while the motor is in neutral will allow it to idle in neutral, but not hold an idle while engaged. In those models, you must set the idle while the motor is engaged.
The carburetor is usually the culprit when a motor will not hold the speed or idle to which it is set. Check the carburetor to make sure it is clean and free of impurities. Check the fuel filter and clean or replace it if it is dirty or clogged. A partially clogged fuel filter can allow the engine to work properly when the flow is full open, but have such a diminished flow in idle that it will die. Check all fuel lines to make sure they are properly attached.
Today's outboard motors are far more reliable and fuel efficient than those of yester-year, but you'll still want to know how to fix these common problems—and fix 'em fast. more
QUICK FIX: First, squeeze the ball as you watch the fitting between the engine and the line, the barb and the hose, the barb on either end of the ball, and if it’s visible, the fitting between the line and the tank. You need to isolate the leak, and seal it. If there’s no visible fuel leak, the ball may be sucking in air; squeeze it again and again with your ear next to each connection, as you listen for a gurgle. Once the leak has been isolated, you may be able to fix it by cutting off a section of the fuel line and re-attaching the barb or fitting with a fresh piece of hose, or by simply replacing a hose-clamp. If the fitting itself has gone bad, you can sometimes push it to one side or the other to temporarily get the engine running. Once you do so, the draw of the engine is often enough to keep the flow of fuel moving.
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Modern outboard engines have come a long way, whether you’re talking about the now-common four-stroke or modern DFI motors. In both cases, reliability is far better than it was in decades past, fuel efficiency has increased, and problems like smoky exhaust and ear-splitting sound levels are ancient history. But that doesn't mean your new outboard is infallible. In fact, there are a few common problems with modern outboard motors that crop up again and again. These will leave some of us sitting at the dock, wishing instead of fishing. For those of us who know the quick fix solution, however, these problems are easy to take care of. more
When you tried to squeeze the ball in the fuel line, you discovered it had collapsed? That collapsed ball indicates an inability to draw, which is most commonly caused by blockage in the fuel tank vent.
QUICK FIX: First and foremost, if you have a portable fuel tank with a screw-type vent, give it a look-see. It’s amazing how often people forget about this vent, and it turns out to be closed. Open up the screw, and the engine should start running just fine. If you’re on a boat with an installed tank, you need to check the tank’s vent. Mud wasps are commonly the culprit, in this situation. They crawl up the vent, build a nest, and shut you down. You can break the nest free by reaming the vent out, but be prepared to run—the wasps will be aggravated. And a week or two later be sure to check your fuel filters, which may have picked up some of the nest’s leavings.