See full version: Aluminum primer vs self etching primer
Unless you only have a few minor issues to fix, it’s challenging for us do-it-yourselfers to carve out enough time to strip the old paint to bare metal, do the repairs, apply bondo and then spray a layer of self-etching primer before surface rust begins to form on the body. In this case, a more realistic option may be to use an epoxy primer. here
An etching primer uses an acid to chemically clean and micro-etch the metal surface for a better mechanical bite to promote adhesion with the layer of high-build primer to follow while also providing a layer of corrosion resistance on the metal. Because it cures quickly, it’s the method of choice for collision shops. But a key difference with etch primer is that you need to apply your filler or bondo first directly to the metal before spraying it. An example of the application order on bare metal is: 1) bodywork including filler/bondo 2) paint prep solvent 3) self-etch primer 4) high-build primer 5) basecoat 6) clearcoat. more
Visit any automotive forum and you can’t help but stumble upon a long running debate on which direct to metal product is better, etch primer or epoxy primer. You will hear all kinds of technical facts, personal experiences as well as flat out unsubstantiated opinion. Then throw in the thousands of products available for the job, each with their own recommendations, and you’ll find yourself overwhelmed.
If your metal surface is mostly smooth, you don’t have areas with rust problems and you don’t plan on having to use additional filler or bondo, then self-etch is a great option. Any slight imperfections and small sanding scratches will be filled with high-build primer in the next step. It’s also useful for painting small parts or body panels with hard-to-reach areas that you can’t scuff easily with sandpaper or a pad. Self-etching primer will get in there and bite into metal for you.
But after the smoke finally clears the fact remains that both types of primers will give you successful results – if used correctly. The route you choose depends on the condition of the metal you’re starting with, the time you have to devote to the bodywork and paint process, your budget and a bit of personal preference. Above all else, once you decide on your color, use that company’s paint products from the bare metal stage to the final topcoat. Mixing products to save a few bucks will most likely cause adhesion problems – no matter which bare metal primer you choose.
Boats and kayaks have fiberglass exteriors. Having a professional paint your sea vehicle is always an option, but a DIY job is infinitely cheaper. [links]
Mark Golden, CEO of Golden Artists Colors, defines metals as “any elements which have metallic properties, including the ability to conduct electricity, being able to create permanent shape and form as well as deformed at average temperatures and typically have a luster” ( source ). here
Actually, no, it’s not just about looking nice. Boats experience many obstacles including hitting rocks and bringing along unwanted attached animal guests. A solid paint job helps protect the boat from this ( source ).
The Bicycle Helmet Safety Institute recommends checking your primer and paint carefully. Certain paints can destroy the foam in helmets, even if you’re only painting the shell. If you are unsure if your paint is compatible with your helmet, contact the manufacturer ( source ).
If a primer promotes adhesion, its main purpose is to help the future topcoat adhere to the surface. For example, most paints can’t work on wet wood. Specialized undercoats, like damp concrete primers, can bond with wet wood and concrete ( source ).
Since patio furniture is exposed to the elements at all times, the paint job on it can easily take a hit. If you find your furniture needing a touch-up, you’ll also need some self-etching primer ( source ). [links]
If you want to get rid of rust then Corroseal Rust Converter is just for you. It’s water-based formula is very versatile and non-flammable.
Rust happens. There are many products that can protect your metal equipment, but there are significant differences in the formulation and methods. Some treatments bond to the rust, others convert it to an inert substance—but the goal is to form a stable substrate that resists further corrosion. here
Though it requires more preparation before and after to look its best, it’s easy to apply and dries to a nice brown color. In addition, the primer is economical, widely-available, and comes with an established brand’s support. here
Anyone who has had to paint metal knows that the first step is to strip off the old paint, or at least cover it with primer so that the new coat will adhere properly. For parts that need to be stripped down to the metal surface, etching helps new paint stay on instead of peel off when dried. Self-etching primer combines the two-step process of etching and primer into one chemical.
Any rust on metal parts must be removed first either by sanding, media blasting or brushing off with metal brushes. Self-etching primer will not get rid of the rust; it will only paint over it. This will stop corrosion expansion until the area once again gets exposed to moisture and air. here
Self-etching primer frequently comes in a gray color, similar to other primer paint. The tell-tale feature will be on the description of the paint container, specifically identifying the self-etching feature included in the paint. The most common paint type comes in a spray can version, which is the easiest to apply. here
It’s really just a preference and depends on a your individual variables. With a restoration shop, they're probably using more epoxy. If they're a high production shop, like a body shop that runs a lot of cars through, they're probably using Self-Etch. more
So, how do you choose if you use Self-Etch or Epoxy?
It's a little bit straighter forward. There are no induction times with Self-Etching primer. There are 1K products that work well for corrosion protection, that are also available in spray cans. So, if you have just a small area and you're wanting to apply such corrosion protection to, a Self-Etching primer in a spray can may be the way to go. Very simple. [links]
Lastly, there is one third option, and that's a DTM, Direct-to-Metal primer. This is a primer surfacer, so you get your standability with it. But it also has some acid in it, which acts like a Self-Etching primer. DTM can be applied directly to steel and then sanded just like a primer surface.