X0nic
29.04.2021 5:21:32
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Also noteworthy is the steering/pivot tube on this engine and several other Honda's and Merc's. They're rusting out from the INSIDE! They're no longer available from Honda for the 35-50 horse engines, and becoming more and more scarce on the used market. Point being, if you have time for some PM, this would be a darn good place to give a thorough inspection and some tender loving care. It's a pain in the butt to get to, but very likely worth the trouble on a salty! -Al [links]
Thanks for the replies. The thermostat (and water pump) has been changed at regular intervals and it comes in and out easily, and there is some scale in there but not a whole lot. I recently had the carburetors and intake manifold off, which opens one of the water jackets, and that's where you can really see what's building up. The anode in there was really caked with stuff. It's not overheating so I'm trying to not do any damage, but the little loose pebbles that keep clogging up the pee tube are getting aggravating, especially since we take this boat in the ocean on regular occasion and when the pee stream stops it's important to know if it's a real problem or not. I'm not taking the head off, that would do more damage than good at this point. But there are several videos on youtube where guys with overheating problems have resolved it by flushing with barnacle buster or one of the other similar chemicals (Rydlyme, Star Bright, etc..), which seems to do a good job at dissolving the scale build up. The star bright product is actually marketed for motor flushing. But I read that acids are rough on anodes (concerned about the aluminum too), and there are a couple in the motor that I'm afraid to remove because I think the bolts will break off, so I'm trying to weigh the risk vs. reward of trying this stuff. [links]
I've got a 99' Honda that is still running great and not (yet?) overheating, but after 20+ years in salt is starting to show signs of build-up. Chunks of free floating scale inside the motor had begun blocking the pee stream on frequent occasion, and removing the lower unit and thermostat then flushing with large quantities of water removed a small pile of rubble and temporarily resolved the concern. But now only a few months later the problem is starting to reoccur so I'm thinking there are still chunks that I didn't get out and it might be a good idea to flush with some sort of chemical to actually dissolve the calcium deposits, IF it can be done without risk to the metal in the motor. After much youtube research, I get the impression that Barnacle Buster might be the most effective of the marine specific chemicals, but I'm unsure of the safety for an outboard. Lots of videos showing people using it, but no long term follow ups. Here is perhaps the most persuasive video in regards to the effectiveness:
Kinda why I suggested pulling the T-stat to get a look see. With any luck at all a 20 year old motor will have had the t-stat changed (at least once), and the bolts treated with anti seize on reassembly. If only the factories would do that when building them! here
I used a small bilge pump in a 5 gallon bucket to circulate through the raw water side of my heat exchanger, and changed flow direction half way through. The heat exchanger looked nice and clean when I was done. here
Post by Targojoe » Wed Jul 25, 2018 6:19 pm
Post by prowlersfish » Thu Jul 26, 2018 5:36 pm here
Post by WayWeGo » Thu Aug 02, 2018 9:52 am
Post by tonydelgreco » Wed Aug 01, 2018 10:42 am [links]
First, we got the YDS and hooked it up. It showed a couple old codes but nothing recently, so the high temp alarm wasn't setting this off. We ran the engine in a bucket for an hr with no alarm. here
I have a diagnostic update on several fronts for those following the thread.
One thing we did notice though is that the engine is idling low. between 550-600 rpm out of gear and closer to 500 in gear. So we are thinking that maybe this could be the root of the problem - with a little restriction in the jacket. We will tune the idle up and report back. We also plan on doing a flush with barnacle buster to clean the water jacket. It does seem like the pee stream is weak when the boat is idling -though it strengthens significantly at high rpms. I also removed the therms and flushed to make sure water was making it up to the therms and water poured out of both sides. Could be some restriction after the therms? not sure exactly what comes after. here
Also, on the spitting and bubbling on start up. I have decided this is normal for some engines depending on their mounted height. I was dropping the boat in over the weekend and a guy with a similarly mounted 2007 F250 dropped his boat in next to me. I watched it start up and it did the exactly same thing as the video above shows. I think the exhaust corrosion symptom that you need to worry about it bubbling from the prop AFTER the motor is warm (which ours does not do).
[links]
Technically i still have an old classic 32 foot Forest Johnson Prowler (long story but supposed to go to a guy in exchange for house remodeling work, which is incomplete). It has twin 200 HP Volvo turbo diesels which are the poster child for all symptoms. A little blue sheen and slow to start on one engine so some day may need a little piston work. Lots of embarrassing white smoke that goes away when she starts up. But none of those compare to the black smoke coming out the stern as she gets up to speed. Was not worried about the bit of blue nor the white, and the culprit for the black is two fold, needs timing/injector work, and has very dirty aftercoolers that need to be cleaned. If the guy finishes his work those will be his problem, fully disclosed.
White smoke - usually from water vapor which can be from water collecting somehow when she sits and you see it particularly at start up, from leaking head gasket (bad if you smell antifreeze in exhaust or water in the oil), from overheating during operation (where barnacle buster helps).
Blue smoke - can be bad, typically oil getting by piston rings, often associated with bad compression and worn out innards. Often leaves a sheen on water surface. [links]
A couple of years ago I started getting a rather dense white smoke (steam?) from the exhaust. The engine was running slightly hotter than normal, though it was not over heating. I posted a query on the board and came up with Barnacle Buster. Set up a bucket with a 12V pump and ran the stuff through the salt water side for 4 hours. All sorts of crud was cleaned out. Since then the engine barely comes up to 170 degrees. Even on long days of motoring. And there is no longer a wisp of the white exhaust. I'm a big fan of the stuff.
Black smoke - represents unburned fuel. Can be from a dirty bottom so motors overloaded, improper prop size or pitch, bad timing, bad injectors, dirty filter or coolers, or bad turbos or who knows what else.
With all due respect, as a hobby Junior and i have rescued a few old clunkers - sail and power -from hibernation and brought back to life. Some of them have been smokers in different ways so we have had to do a little research on the nature of the smoke. So i freely share my limited knowledge, which is worth every penny.