marekknowak
26.04.2021 9:08:51
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Today I tried replacing the rear hub bearings on my 1996 110 with Salisbury axle.
The old bearing tracks I removed were Timken but the bearings themselves were unbranded with no markings at all but they slide over the stub axle perfectly.
No problems removing and refitting the bearing tracks and hub seal but when I tried fitting the hub onto the stub axle it was too tight.
Check that the new hubs are the same size as the old. If they are, then the problem is that the cups (or races) are not fully seated within the hub. Note there are two cups (inner and outer). Take a look at the picture of the hub and you will see the outer cup. It looks very smooth and is tapered to hold the smaller of the two bearings. Although the cup looks like it is part of the hub it can in fact be driven in or out. The back of the hub behind the grease seal is exactly the same except the cup and bearing are larger.
There is this rubber ring on the inside of the hub hole on the backside of the hub that is not allowing it to go on.
As far as I know there are only two reasons why the hub does not go all the way on the spindle.
a) the replacement hub is not the correct size -highly unlikely.
b) the cups (races) are not seated all the way in the hub. [links]
I just bought a two new hub kits and while putting the first on I had trouble getting it on all the way. The hole the spindle goes through seems go be the same as the old on but it won't get on there. I know it is not going on all the way b/c I can not get to the pin hole in the spindle to put the pin in.
Re: NEW Hub wont go all the way on spindle more
I think I know what the problem is. First I am going to attach a picture of a basic trailer hub. here
Re: Trailer hubs won't go back on
Re: Trailer hubs won't go back on more
Re: Trailer hubs won't go back on more
i found it easiest to use a side grinder and its off in less then 5 minutes
I made a tool from a mower blade yesterday, that was supposed to fit between the bearing and the dust cover. But it didn't work out so well. I need to made the blade thinner and bend it a little more. But I'm not sure how that's going to work out, even when I get it to fit all the way up to the spindle, because it might be too thin to actually hold the bearing, while I'm hammering on the spindle. [links]
I've ran into this more times than I can count. The bottom spindle bearing stuck on the spindle, with very little room to get to it with say the air hammer. Especially if it has the dust cover over it. The dust covers being very thin, and easy to bend.
I was wondering if someone has come up with a say of locking onto the bearing, in order to use the air hammer to get it off, without bending the dust cover. [links]
Search their site using "Bearing Separator And Puller Set". [links]
put spindle shaft and bearing in vise so bearing only gets clamped, crank in the vise and the brittle race breaks in two, then pry out the ball bearings and then all thats left is the inner race. now clamp the spindle shaft in the vise and use side grinder to grind through the inner race horizontally by holding it flat and not trying to get all the way to the end by the cup. if you get about 3/4 of it ground through just barely, then tap a small chisel or junky screwdriver in under the race to get it off the shaft, and it opens up and falls right off the shaft. at worst you have a very slight blemish scratches where you ground into the shaft but this has zero effect of it being solid and secure mounted.
I made a tool from a mower blade yesterday, that was supposed to fit between the bearing and the dust cover. But it didn't work out so well. I need to made the blade thinner and bend it a little more. But I'm not sure how that's going to work out, even when I get it to fit all the way up to the spindle, because it might be too thin to actually hold the bearing, while I'm hammering on the spindle. here