See full version: Best prop for mercury 250 pro xs
Going to a 23 will most likely solve his issue. As far as his boat chine walking, that is not a Ranger trait. Raising his motor may also minimize this while helping his holeshot. Chine walk is caused by several things. A lot of bow lift is one of them. He mentioned if he went past 3/4 trim it started chine walking.
Raising the motor will reduce the amount of leverage the prop gets that allows it to lift the hull free of the water. It also reduces the drag of the lower unit as it goes through the water. There is a sweet spot for all rigs at different loads. Obviously it takes more leverage to lift a boat that has 600# of tackle in it and a 300# partner with the livewells full and 50 gals of gas. So the prop will need to be deeper in the water to lift the hull free of the water to run.
Most folks think that sticking the motor deeper in the water helps holeshot. It is actually just the opposite. If you have a hydraulic plate you can experiment with this.
This is especially true in certain parts of the country where climate patterns are extreme, such as the arid southwest or humid southeast — or at higher altitudes where the air is thinner. [links]
Once the proper RPMs are realized — along with good hull lift — you should begin to see improved top end speed. Then it’s a matter of fuel flow (or fuel consumption), and only a mechanic's ECM tester or Mercury's SmartCraft gauge can tell you if you're burning the right number of gallons per hour. here
The performance rigging department at Ranger spends countless hours testing their various hulls with different make and size outboards to determine the best all around performing props. Note that I said the "best all-around" performing props. Depending on your personal preferences or boat's specific setup, other options are available.
Something else to consider is prop wear, and not all wear is obvious. In fact, substantial performance loss can result from unnoticeable edge or cup wear. Beattie claims grinding a prop through shallow water sand, or even coarse mud, can remove some of the cup and cause significant edge wear that you might not be able to see. The result is reduced bite, which translates to less thrust, resulting in less bow lift. And remember, less lift means less top-end speed! [links]
Something else to watch out for is fishing line — especially braid! According to Beattie, nothing will wear out a seal or scar a prop shaft quicker than braided fishing line. To prevent this from happening, he recommends removing the prop periodically for a quick checkup. And while you're at it, he suggests checking the plastic hub assembly. This part is made of plastic for a reason — to fail on impact, so that the prop shaft or gear case may be spared any potential damage. Look for abnormal wear, like grooving or cracking. If you see any, replace the hub immediately.
Although all of the propellers in our previous list were high quality at the time of publication, we have added the latest model of the Motorguide Machete III as it is superior and more reasonably priced than its predecessor. This option is seven years newer, and its plastic construction is more than strong enough for a small electric trolling motor. here
Most propellers are available in two-inch pitch increments, which is typically enough to find the sweet spot. For those who want to perfectly tune their rig's performance, the Mercury Marine Enertia Eco is available in one-inch pitch increments.
May 10, 2019: [links]
This wiki has been updated 9 times since it was first published in February of 2019. There is no one-size-fits-all when it comes to boat propellers. Having the right fit for your vessel is integral to ensuring you get the most out of your motor. Most times, the factory-installed model isn't ideal, and installing an after-market option can mean a noticeable increase in acceleration and top speed. Our guide will help you sift through the ocean of choices to find the perfect match. When users buy our independently chosen editorial picks, we may earn commissions to help fund the Wiki.
The Quicksilver Nemesis was added to the list to add a reasonably priced, high-torque option for boaters who want to tow anyone at speed, as acceleration is an important consideration, especially for waterskiing and parascending, when it can be unsafe to sacrifice a high top-speed for a quick start or holeshot. here
Chinewalk: Triton is a boat that responds favorably to higher engine settings.
Many dealers install the engine in the first hole that lines up and in many cases the owner is not aware of adjustments that can be made. Once it has been determined that the engine is in a relatively accurate height range, you can begin getting a feel for the boat. The leading cause of intitial uncontrollable chine is over trimming the engine. It is very important to master each setting of engine trim before trimming further. Your Triton hull is very efficient and does not require an extremely high angle of attack to achieve its maximum potential. here
Beware of the pre-2000 Merc 3.0 Liter water pressure during setup! The added water ports on the lower unit keep from lifting the Opti 3.0 to a maximum height. Although the 200 EFI and Opti are both the same HP, they are totally different engine/lower unit combos and height info is not readily exchanged between them. The 2000+ 3.0 models have the low water intakes in the front of t he housing that help control intake venting.
Torquemaster style "scoops" will cure all low water volume woes without resorting to a lift and speed-robbing nosecone.
Because of the limited time the 250's have been out I have minimal setup knowledge of them. Remember that the 200 Optimax, 225 EFI and Optimax, the 250XB and the 300 ProMax are all based on the 3.0 Merc. This is mind, set up the 250XB as you would the 225 EFI but you may need to add pitch. Since the redline is higher on the XB the same setup should work as the 225 EFI.
Triton Setup Disclaimer!! All boats are not loaded or driven equally.
What works for one may not work for another, even empty with the same size engine, prop and driver! These figures are starting points and some are proven finishing points for setups. It is just as important to be sure the throttle is adjusted properly as it is to have the right prop. Sloppy rigging plays an important role in unsatisfactory performance and dissatisfied customers. [links]
The smaller Tritons- 170 Premier, TR-17, 180 Premier and the TR-18 can be difficult to dial in. Tournament load is much more crucial in the smaller hull/motor combinations. The Laser II props work well on the Merc and Yamaha powered 17's. The 18' Premier and TR-18 do better with the larger diameter Renegade, Raker, Tempest and Trophy setups.
Designed for high-speed bass, flats cats, and tunnel boats capable of speeds more than 80 mph, the Pro Max offers improved hole shot and top-end speeds compared with the Pro E.T. The robust blades provide support in even the most demanding engine heights. Typically, it will be 2-3 mph faster on top-end compared to the Bravo I XS.
We build bigger adventure fueled by gasoline and adrenaline. We are cutting edge. We can take you wide open. here