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20.06.2021 19:20:09
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Different engine builders have different turbo-maintenance requirements, although whatever engine you may have, chances are the turbo doesn’t need much looking after. A new air filter every hundred hours or so, or maybe every year; an internal cleaning every couple of hundred hours, done without removing the turbo; and a rebuild after thousands of hours, usually more hours than you’ll put on your boat. All the recommendations for this stuff are in your engine’s owner’s manual—on the pages toward the back that you maybe didn’t read. Get your manual out and turn to those pages now. [links]
So, what’s the downside? Old-timers claim the higher power output of the turbo robs an engine’s lifespan versus a same-displacement natural—maybe it does, but few yacht owners put enough hours on their engines to find out for sure. Certainly, it’s a consideration for commercial fishermen and round-the-world voyagers, many of whom prefer chunky, slow-turning, naturally aspirated engines. But for the majority of skippers, the biggest turbo-related negative is that the darn thing is simply another component to break down, and it needs a little TLC once in a while. Nothing onerous, though.
Traditional turbos use fixed turbine rotors; newfangled variable geometry turbos have movable turbine vanes that automatically adjust to match the exhaust flow. The vanes can be mechanically controlled by a pressure-sensitive actuator, similar to a conventional wastegate, or by an electronic control unit. Variable geometry turbos are more complex than conventional ones, and difficult to rebuild, so most mechanics replace them. But whatever innards a turbocharger has, using a treatment to clean them of soot and other gunk is a major step toward preventing turbo issues. [links]
How do you know when your turbo needs attention? I asked Carl Schlemmer, a technical support specialist at Yanmar and a guy who knows a lot about turbochargers. Schlemmer says the most important tool for maintaining a turbo is a boost gauge. “When boost drops by ten percent from normal, it’s time to clean the turbocharger,” he said, assuming nothing else is amiss on board: The bottom’s not heavily fouled, the fuel and air filters are clean, etc.
The upgraded system has a boost mode
Theo Stocker turns up the heat with a test of one of the new generation diesel heaters - the Eberspacher…
Then along came more accurate controls with LCD displays and built-in seven-day timers. more
Many recent diesel heater models now have a boost function just to pre-warm the boat and an eco-setting in which it just ticks over enough to retain the temperature within a narrow range. here
There’s also the possibility of carbon monoxide entering the boat if a fender is left dangling over the exhaust while the heater is running, or if the silencer is of poor quality with crimped, rather than welded seams.
When shopping for a supercharger, you’ll notice boost levels are noted in ranges—as in 6 to 8 psi. This is because there are outside factors, including carburetor size, camshaft profile, and valve size, that can cause boost to vary. For example, at full throttle, your engine is going to need about 50 percent more air than it did before the blower was installed. If your carburetor is incapable of flowing the necessary airflow, you will have lower boost.
Boost readings are typically observed or measured at the intake manifold. If your engine has restricted cylinder head ports, small valves, or a non-performance camshaft, you will actually see artificially high boost readings in the higher-rpm range. This is because the boost pressure can’t get into the engine cylinders efficiently and begins to build up within the intake manifold. Although you’re observing high boost levels, the actual amount of boost pressure reaching your engine is lower and your engine’s power gains have maxed out. Conversely, lower readings on your boost gauge can mean your supercharger is making more power.
For street engines running on 92 octane gasoline, you should keep your effective compression to 12.0:1 or below, according to Weiand. Once you exceed the 12.0:1 effective compression mark, detonation begins to become more likely. Naturally, you can attempt to control detonation with boost retards and other modifications, but Weiand recommends you stay below or near the 12.0:1 range to make any detonation problems as manageable as possible. more
Can you run higher boost levels than those recommended in the chart? Sure. But you’ll need to make modifications (covered in our next installment) to your engine to do it reduce the chances of detonation or mechanical failure. To bring safe, practical performance increases to your street-driven vehicle, follow Weiand’s basic recommendations above. here
Too much boost can be bad—very bad. It can lead to detonation, which can be catastrophic in forced induction engines. With assistance from the supercharger experts at Weiand, we’ll help you zero in on the safe, optimal amount of boost for your street application.
Use the handy chart below to determine your safe boost level based on your engine’s static compression ratio. Again, if the combination of static compression and boost take you over the 12.0:1 effective compression ratio, you may find yourself dealing with detonation issues. Also, remember that low compression, high boost engines will make more power than high compression, low boost setups. more