See full version: Considering Buying a House With Uneven Floors? 5 Things to Know
If you’re a home buyer seeking that perfect historic or old house, uneven floors are something you’ll have to deal with sooner or later. And even if a home was recently built, as it gets older the floors will become less level while you own it.
Buying a house with uneven floors may help you save a pretty penny. However, it’s important to do your due diligence before pulling the trigger. Don’t know what to consider when buying a home with uneven floors? Read our complete guide to buying a house with less-than-perfect floors.
If you choose to install a steel beam on a home to repair some of these issues, it can cost you between $1,201 and $4,646. When you take a look at the big picture, these costs can add up and cause long term structural issues that should make you think twice about buying a home with uneven floors. [links]
Older homes usually have the former type of foundation. Typically, pier-and-beam foundation repairs are less expensive since your repair crew has easy access to the beams through crawl spaces and can repair damage easily. here
I'm not saying you should make it level. I am saying that where there is a dip with a stud over it, you should put shims under the sole plate so the weight transfers down from the stud, through the sole plate, through the shims, and into the floor.
I believe the current wisdom around here is that there should be a gap between the studs and the foundation wall. I think even with foam over the wall, a gap will prevent moisture from transferring to the stud.
I think the important question / issue is "How much does this area of the floor change, both side to side & front to back?" Does this floor area have a noticable change in height? And what are you planing on doing with the floor in this area & the basement in general? If the differenced are minor, don't worry about it. But right now we do not know how much it is a factor here. If the differences in the floor levels are noticable when walking on it, then some type of leveling agent would probably be a good idea. Just to fill in the low spots. [links]
Install the bottom plate on the sill sealer tight to the floor. Add any shims above the wall, if required---- OR cut the studs different lengths to omit the shims, as Drooplug said. You should be trying to keep air from the concrete, yet hold the drywall 1/2" up from the sill sealer and use ADA: Info-401: Air Barriers
Shims behind the wall on the foam board are not required if tying the wall to the ceiling framing above. Remember to fire/draft-stop every 10' lineally with approved material and above the wall to the mudsill behind it. Use foam board on the rim joists, air sealing with canned foam: Insulate Basement Rim Joists | The Family Handyman here
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Not all floor problems are the same. One category describes floors that have a general, overall slant. The other category describes floors that might generally be level (from end to end) but within that span may have sags or dips.
Jack up that portion of the house and place new footers. Anything involving 20-ton house jacks will take time; you cannot jack up a house in one day. It has to be jacked up slowly over days or even weeks to avoid cracking drywall, plaster, windows, and even structural elements. more
Different from slanting/sloping floors are those that sag or have dips. For instance, you may have a dining room floor that, end to end is level, but between those two points are various sags and dips. Your foundation may not be the problem. Instead, it may be an issue with joists and beams below your floor that require shoring up. In some cases, pouring floor leveling compound will fix the problem.