I've heard some early vro's (way before your 2004) had some issues and some folks disabled 'em and ran premix. That bad rep has had people disabling perfectly functional vro's for years. I'd try to fix the issue and still have the vro.. My .02
See full version: Replace a VRO pump with a standard fuel pump
I've heard some early vro's (way before your 2004) had some issues and some folks disabled 'em and ran premix. That bad rep has had people disabling perfectly functional vro's for years. I'd try to fix the issue and still have the vro.. My .02
Re: Replace a VRO pump with a standard fuel pump
have you tried a portable tank to see if the problem still exists? Have you checked the pulse limiter? Have you checked the vapor seperator cover gasket? If not, it will be quite likely that the problem will still exist with the new pump.
Re: Replace a VRO pump with a standard fuel pump more
You can convert the VRO pump into a straight fuel pump, eliminating the oil tank and VRO pump warning system, but retain the overheat warning setup by doing the following:
3 - Mix the 50/1 oil in the proper amount with whatever quanity fuel you have. Disconnect the fuel line at the engine. Pump the fuel primer bulb until fuel exits that hose with the tint of whatever oil you used. Reconnect the fuel hose.
I have an older 1989 evinrude which is bypassed. The thing that most outboards at one point with this VRO oil/fuel pump will fail at one point or the other. The problem is that, not always will your alarm go off. And if that alarm fails then the problems can escalate from a simple VRO to a new engine. By passing it and mixing 50/1 will make it less of a headache if you are unsure about your oil to fuel mixture. At least for me it's a habit already and rather very simple procedure at the gas station.
Here's how to do it
1 - Cut and plug the oil line at the engine so that the oil side of the VRO pump will not draw air into its system. Trace the wires from the back of the VRO to its rubber plug (electrical plug) and disconnect it. more
Hose #22 in the diagram is called out as a pulse line. Maybe the rear cylinder port serves some other function? here
Is there a good "how to" guide to this?
Installing this pump, the fuel lines went to their obvious connections and the pulse line went to the pulse limiter valve. If I recall the valve was located in the lower area of the front of the motor. [links]
It's pretty straightforward. I did it last year, and bought my kit from this outfit:
This might be a stupid follow-up question but why are there 3 nipples on that pump when all it's moving is gas and the vac line is on the back? more
I will put part of the information from the link here just in case the link goes bad. [links]
I also took off my starter so I could move and see things better under, around and between the carbs, air-intake/air silencer cover and starter. Three bolts to take off the starter so, again, not a big deal.
The plastic fuel distribution manifold splits the large hose coming from the fuel pump or VRO pump into 3 smaller hoses going to each carburetor and the primer choke. It has to be flipped over from how it is now to work better with the conventional fuel pump. Just disconnect the small hoses, flip it over and reconnect the hoses. If you plan to replace the small hoses it is Evinrude part number 329695. Most dealers will have the smaller and larger hose in stock and be willing to sell it to you by the foot instead of having to buy a whole roll. You will also need some new tie straps for your hose connections, part number 320107. These are a specialized radius type tie strap meant for hose connections. I would say get about 20 of them so you have a few spares in case one or two break on you. more
Okay - I got the new fuel pump and new hoses all hooked up. Put the H2O muffs on, ran 50:1 fuel and the motor fired up and ran like a champ. Man was I happy. I tilted up the motor with the electric tilt to check something out, went to put the motor back down. nothing. Hooked up the water again in the tilted position to check if it would fire up. nothing. "Crud" I said and checked the battery, wires, etc. thinking I messed up some wiring with my monkeying around. It all looks fine so I was at a lose. Did some digging again and found this video about a guy with the same problem on a Yamaha outboard. Yamaha 50HP Outboard No Power to Tilt or Motor - YouTube [links]
good jobbie on the pump conversion, obviously you disconnected the vro pump connection when you burried it, right? if it's not gone then where is it? take a look at your wiring/connections for chafing through the insulation, suspecting somethings grounding out popping that fuse. more
This is what I have learned so far. The hose in question from the air intake manifold to the engine is the intake manifold drain and the hose takes the gas/oil to the lower cylinder. This hose keeps the engine shroud from getting oily. Here is where I learned some more about this nipple and hose connection.
http://forums.iboats.com/force-chrysler-outboards/intake-drain-hose-327318.html
here