See full version: Use Penetrating Oil to Loosen a Stuck Nut or Bolt
When faced with a rusty bolt or nut or other parts that seem corroded together, the secret is time. After spraying a healthy dose of penetrant on the fused parts, give them several hours—or even overnight—to sit while the penetrating oil seeps in. Then use your wrenches to try and loosen the parts. If they refuse to budge, hit them with another heavy dose of penetrating oil and again let them sit for several hours and try again. more
The penetrating oil is most useful when you have a corroded or rusted bolt or nut that just won't budge. Pretty much every home garage or workshop needs a can of spray penetrating oil on a shelf. If you don't have one, you probably should. But if you already have a can, there is also a good chance you're using it incorrectly. It's not uncommon for people to use a can of spray penetrating oil as an old-fashioned lubricant, but that's actually not what it's intended for. Spraying a bicycle chain or gear linkage with WD-40 or PB Blaster, won't really offer the lubrication you wanted.
True penetrating oils aren't the best product for every use and not every spray lubrication product is a penetrating oil. here
Silicone: This is a spray lubricant containing about 1.5 percent silicone suspended in other materials to allow it to be applied as a spray. Silicone lubricants repel water and work well at extremely high or low temperatures. It is also unusual in that it can be used on rubber, wood, and plastic parts without staining them. It is not intended for applications where there will be heavy pressure.
Jun 09, 2016 #2 2016-06-09T15:55 here
Jun 09, 2016 #1 2016-06-09T07:02
I used some PB blaster to loosen some lug nuts on one of my trailers. Will the PB blaster leave an oily residue or act like a lubricant causing the lug nuts to back off during towing? Do the lug nuts and lug post threads need to be cleaned off afterward?
Most trailers use 1/2" thread diameter lug studs. Bolts/lugs/nuts of this size require a torque of 80 to 100 foot pounds of torque for correct tightness. You will not break a stud because it was too tight, they break because the threads are galled, and rusted because the person that put them on 60 years ago, "did it dry". You will want to lubricate the threads to get the bolt this tight. You can use motor oil, light grease, wheel bearing grease, or my favorite is anti seize, basically use almost anything except a penetrating oil that will dry out. here
Rod, PB Blaster, WD-40, and others are penetrating oils used for rust, etc. They are not a good choice for lubricating moving parts. For some reason they SMELL awful! LOL more
To talk about the quality, PB Blaster offers it more though both are made of high-quality elements. It can easily soak into any hard-to-reach or inconvenient crevices. It makes the lube competitively the best one. Though the quality increases its price which is also considered a drawback yet it is recommended first.
So, be a bit careful about the material when you are using WD 40 on it. [links]
However, it will be unwise to apply heat from the direct fire on any lubed objects. Otherwise, it will result in ignite eventually. Nevertheless, PB Blaster won’t let you go that far. It will not require any unnecessary acceleration. more
As we mentioned before, WD 40 ensures more safety and it is also less irritant. Whereas, PB Blaster is highly irritant and requires protective gears before starting operation. Again, WD 40 is also approved as it causes fewer fumes.
Well, with a bit different composition, WD 40 is still also an oil-based lubricant. You can use it on thousands of things. Its convenient possessions have confirmed its sophistication. Its safe ingredients allow it to apply on even wood, plastics, metal, and others. here
Disadvantages of Using WD 40: [links]
Next day I didn't have time to work on the project but I squirted the fasteners again. [links]
Post by len » Thu Sep 11, 2003 5:16 pm
Tried to loosen the nuts on the carriage bolts that hold the wheelbarrow pan to the handles--no go. Tapped the nuts and reapplied the BLaster. No go. Used more torque--stripped the carriage bolts, so now they turn. Put ViseGrips on the end of the bolts, but still could not move the nuts. Used heat from a propane torch, then applied more Blaster after cooling down. Still could not break the nuts free. Resorted to the final solution--the trusty angle grinder, and cut off the bolts. Replaced with new. End of story.
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Fair enough, you can't expect a rusted nut on a rusted bolt to suddenly and magically break free with just a squirt of anything, although this is what the product pushers want me to believe. So in the end I had to resort to the old faithfull angle grinder to cut off the bumper bolts. more
Today finished the project and here's what happened.