[Matthias Vance]

Rig a spark tester and have the gap set to 7/16". Hook up the timing light to the #1 plug wire. Crank the engine over and set the spark advance to 4� less than what the engine calls for.

[Belly]

I am stupped at this point. Could the timer base need adjustment. Can you even adjust the time base. [links]

[benyclawn]

I brought the Mrs out on the lake and hooked up the timing light on no1 cyl.
I marked the 18btdc line with a white marker and fired up. Here is the strange thing; the white mark appears way pass the ignition pointer and when i order the Mrs to push full throttle, the mark appears even further "down" passed the pointer.

[brightside]

SO I fired it up today and it started instantly with out hesitation. Got timing gun and it read 12 ATDC yes ATDC! With throttle disconnected and timer base pulled against timer stop at idle it read 8 BTDC. So I adjusted the timer stop screw about 3/4" out and got it to 16 BTDC, per Frederick55 instructions. But still idling at 12 ATDC. I was able to get it to idle at 6 btdc but the throttle valve rigging would have been way off. [links]

[arturekert02]

I removed and disassembled all the carbs and found them to be damn near perfect. I found a vac port between the middle carbs with a rotted cap on it but I doubt that is enough to loose 3500 rpm, might explain the puffing though. I'm going to change all vac hoses and search thoroughly for any other vacuum leaks then time it. I'm premixing and running a Holley Blue fuel pump regulated a 5 psi. 1991 19' commander ski boat. more

[ShonA1985]

hope you get it rite , cause i learn from these looper posts. good luck [links]

[Gespenster]

HeavyEight. Remove the carburetor face plate, them pressurize the fuel primer bulb. If there's a fuel oozing out of the carburetors, they will require reworking. Pressurizing the fuel primer bulb WILL NOT cause a engine to flood unless the carburetors are faulty or if the primer solenoid is faulty or the primer solenoid has the RED lever set to the wrong position.<br /><br />In the case of faulty carbs, they would require cleaning and rebuilding. Set the floats as follows.<br /><br />(Carburetor Float Setting)<br /> <br />With the carburetor body held upside down, the float being viewed from the side, adjust the float so that the free end of the float (the end opposite the hinge pin) is ever so slightly higher (off level) than the other end. And when viewed from the end, make sure it is not cocked.<br /><br />Now. Timing. If you're checking the timing at cranking speed, there will be a 4° difference between what is registering and what the actual timing should be. as follows:<br /><br />(Timing At Cranking Speed 4°)<br /><br />The full spark advance can be adjusted without have the engine running at near full throttle as follows. <br /><br />To set the timing on that engine, have the s/plugs out, and have the throttle at full, set that timer base under the flywheel tight against the rubber stop on the end of the full spark timer advance stop screw (wire it against that stop if necessary). <br /><br />Rig a spark tester and have the spark gap set to 7/16". Hook up the timing light to the #1 plug wire. Crank the engine over and set the spark advance to 4° less than what the engine calls for. <br /><br />I don't know the full spark advance setting your engine calls for, but to pick a figure, say your engine calls for 28°, set the timing at 24°. The reasoning for the 4° difference is that when the engine is actually running, due to the nature of the solid state ignition componets, the engine gains the extra 4°. <br /><br />If you set the engine to its true setting at cranking speed, when running it will advance beyond its limit by 4° which will set up pre-ignition causing guaranteed piston damage! You don't want that to take place. <br /><br />No need to be concerned about the idle timing as that will take care of itself. The main concern is the full advance setting. <br /><br />Be sure to use your own engines spark advance settings, not the one I picked out of the air here in my notes.<br /><br />I've read nothing about compression or spark. Compression should be approx 100 psi and even on all cylinders. Spark, with the plugs out, should jump a 7/16" gap with a strong blue flame on all cylinders. What do you have there?<br /><br />The wires leading to the coils. Top wire should be Orange/Blue, Center should be plain Orange, Bottom should be Orange/Green. Possible they are crossed?

[NegativeOne]

Re: Johnson 225 Ignition timing here

[gkelly]

Joe:<br /><br />Your description leads me to believe I have a weak spark. Will carry out tests today.<br /><br />As far as the wires off the stator, there are two 2 pin connectors, both brown brown/yellow, and also a set of orange/orange/black wires. I believe these are all charge coil wires. Upon examination of several wiring diagrams I find that in 1992 the brown brown/yellow connectors were supposed to come off one fore and one aft on the stator. The orange orange/black should come off the rear stator next to one set brown brown/yellow. In 1993 this was changed so both sets brown brown/yellow came off rear stator next to each other, and the orange orange/black wires come off the front. I have a 1992 motor and a 1992 powerpack. However, my charge coil wires are hooked up as in 1993 and later, the orange wires off the front and both sets brown in the back. I don't know what the significance of this is. The same stator part number is shown for both years so I don't know why wiring is different or if this will affect operation.<br /><br />My flywheel is only marked for number 1 cylinder. <br /><br />Would quick start be advancing my timing while trying to set max spark advance at cranking speed, WOT? This could account for part of the problem. How can I disable quick start?<br /><br />Thanks guys.

[HlllD]

Re: Johnson 225 Ignition timing

[Mackendra99]

Set the throttle so that the scribe mark on the metal cam is aligned dead center with the center of the throttle roller.

[sabbers]

A fellow member from one of the various marine forums suggested having water supplied to the water pump (flushette or barrel) simply to provide lubrication to impeller. A worthwhile suggestion I thought, and entered here. [links]

[zlavernenasho]

If you set the engine to its true setting at cranking speed, when running it will advance beyond its limit by 4� which will set up pre-ignition causing guaranteed piston damage! You don't want that to take place. [links]

[PinkyCandice7x]

The power pack on your Johnson outboard boat motor is a central part of the ignition system. The power pack supplies voltage to the ignition system's power coils. A malfunctioning or dead power pack can cause your Johnson outboard to have problems at start up. You can use a multimeter to test the power pack. However, because the power pack has varying voltage levels, a peak voltage adapter will also have to be hooked up to the multimeter.

[SkyN]

Locate the wires that run from the power pack to the power coil. These wires are typically colored orange or white. Locate the positive and negative terminals. They will both be marked clearly. Touch the positive and negative test leads to the corresponding wires connected to the power coil. The voltage reading should be at least 150 volts. If not, replace the power pack. [links]

[deadalus]

Turn the multimeter on and switch the power to the "DC" or "Voltage" setting. Also set the voltage range to at least 150 volts. [links]