bbking2010
25.05.2021 12:12:24
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Hi, I have a 2001 Yamaha 40hp 2 stroke that will not idle. The motor starts and idle very rough and then dies. The issues appears to be with the number one cylinder. If I disconnect the number one spark plug wire, the engine will stabilize and idle on two cylinders. If I reattach the number one plug wire the engine will sputter and die.
Also, a spark is visible between the number one coil and the engine, where the coil is attached. The plug wire seems charged along the length of the plug wire, as a slight sparking is present when the wire is touched.
I swapped out the coil, but the same issues as stated above remains, including the coil to engine block sparking.
Compression is good on all three cylinders.
Spark check good on all coils.
Swapped around spark plugs from cylinder 3 to 1, but no difference, same symptoms as above. here
Any advice on what is causing this issue would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks more
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Any input on what or how serious my problems are? Dirty carbs? Other? Thanks for any input. [links]
Hi All-
Been out a few times this spring and have noticed an issue starting up. Engine cranks (choked) for 4-5 seconds three or 4 times before "catching"/sparking and starting up. At idle and slow harbor speed, it seems I'm not firing on all cylinders. As soon as I get to 2700-3000 rpms, life is good and I run very smooth. At first, I just put it down to being a little early in the season, but am getting a little concerned. New plugs this spring with normal "commisioning". I had some E-10 related fuel issues last year, but they were resolved by mid-summer with new install of a Racor filter and dumping a bad tank of fuel. Racor looks clean now. I've run her a couple of times at WOT in hopes of clearing carbs and she sounds good at anything over 3000 rpms. more
Hi All-
Been out a few times this spring and have noticed an issue starting up. Engine cranks (choked) for 4-5 seconds three or 4 times before "catching"/sparking and starting up. At idle and slow harbor speed, it seems I'm not firing on all cylinders. As soon as I get to 2700-3000 rpms, life is good and I run very smooth. At first, I just put it down to being a little early in the season, but am getting a little concerned. New plugs this spring with normal "commisioning". I had some E-10 related fuel issues last year, but they were resolved by mid-summer with new install of a Racor filter and dumping a bad tank of fuel. Racor looks clean now. I've run her a couple of times at WOT in hopes of clearing carbs and she sounds good at anything over 3000 rpms.
Any input on what or how serious my problems are? Dirty carbs? Other? Thanks for any input.
Remove the coil wires. Check continuity using an ohmmeter or a multimeter set to measure resistance. You should have continuity between the two primary-side terminals on the coil. You should not have continuity between either primary-side terminal and the secondary terminal or between either primary terminal and the case. If any of these checks fail, replace the ignition coil. [links]
A bad coil can cause the engine to idle and run rough. It might feel weak with a tendency to stall, and may start to backfire. When the coil fails completely it will cause a non-running condition, or in the case of a coil-over-plug application, a dead miss in that particular cylinder. Bucking may accompany backfiring when the car's in gear, similar to the symptoms produced by bad timing. Some intermittent problems are heat related, and aren't apparent until the engine and coil are at operating temperature. more
Loose wires at the coil, distributor or spark plugs can cause similar symptoms, so check the connections for damage, cleanliness and tightness. Incorrectly gapped or damaged spark plugs can also mimic a bad distributor. Be sure to check the plugs and gap or replace as needed. Low power due to a weak battery or failing alternator can also cause similar symptoms. Ideally, you should make sure that your battery and charging system is up to specs before beginning to troubleshoot any electrical problems.
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Hello Phil. I’m new here and I just now became a member due to this issue I have with an MTD Yard Machine 25cc 2 stroke tiller, model Y125. It’s in immaculate shape and it’s only been used in soft flower beds a couple of times, but it has also set for a long time without being started. The very first thing I did before any of the rest of this, is I pulled the plug and screwed in my compression tester and I got 125lbs compression. I’m thinking we’re good at that point so proceed with it I will. I drained all the old gas and put in fresh 91 octane gas mixed at 40:1. I’ve put on a brand new carb, new fuel lines (I tested the new feed/suction line for leaks after instal), new fuel filter, spark plug, and the air filter is in great shape and clean.
My problem. I go to do the new carb/first start/adjust, and I turn both mix screws out to the norm of around a full turn +- (I’ve found it seems, that everyone’s norm on that will vary by about a 1/4 turn) and it will flood every time I try to start it wether it’s trying it at wot or idle, regardless of choke on or off, or air filter in or out. I finally got it to start, but only after I opened the high side about 3/4 turn and left the low closed. I got it to run at idle and wot, but I can only turn both screws out about 1/2 turn to get it to do so. At wot it will spit and miss very hard and even backfire through the carb and at idle it’s not running to bad and will set idling on it’s own. I’ve checked the crank case o-ring seal and it looks good with no problems that I can see there, although looks don’t always mean good.
I haven’t checked the head and think it should be good due to the compression. That little voice has already whispered it to me and is now telling me I’m going to hear someone say “vacuum leak”. Yes, I have thought that. But I will admit, I’m not seeing it as the problem due to where the mix screws are having to be set at about a 1/2 turn out, which is less fuel going in to make it run ?? A vacuum leak is air coming in after the Venturi and mix screws, which “should” mean you’d need to open the mix screws more to allow more fuel to compensate the more air, not cutting the fuel back like I’m having to do. So, any thoughts, suggestions, hopefully cures ??
And by all means, please do.
Point out the right in front of my face “obvious” that for some reason I’m simply not seeing and missing here. Lol. Thanks in advance for any help on this.
Once I used our small 2-cycle garden tiller. After ten minutes the engine siezed and stopped. I had mixed 2-cycle oil with the gasoline, but it was old by the time I was using it. I found advice on the Internet that said to let the engine cool. Then use a wrench with a long handle to slowly turn the engine over. Turn in the same direction, not back and forth. That engine still works very well, although I am sure it suffered a little. Lesson learned: always use freshly mixed fuel. here
First check the mounting screws for the carburetor and tighten them. Then go to the screws that hold the cylinder head to the crankcase body and those that cover the end where the crankshaft comes out of the engine. See the yellow circles on this photo of a weed whacker engine. If any of these screws loosen as little as a quarter of a turn air begins to leak into the engine and the fuel/air mixture either is not pushed into the engine on the piston's downstroke or it becomes too lean for the engine to run by pulling in extra air during the piston's upstroke.
When a gasoline engine of any kind will sit unused for any length of time, drain the fuel from the tank and run the engine until all remaining fuel in the system has been burned through the engine. This prevents gums and varnishes from closing off small openings. here