[ChesterA321]

Whenever making these connections from a threaded port to a hose barb connection, ABYC guidelines call for two hose clamps at each connection point of fuel line over hose barb. Be sure the clamps are a marine-grade stainless steel type with even sealing tension. Doubling up the clamps does requires a hose barb long enough to fit both clamps. If you're installing fuel tanks or repowering a vessel, be sure to consult a professional or, at minimum, have your finished work inspected to be sure there are no siphoning and fuel leak hazards. It's a good idea to have the system pressure tested by a professional anytime you make alterations to a fuel line assembly. here

[willyzg68]

A frequently asked question from DIY boaters is how to seal the pipe threads found on fuel system components. For most components such as a pre-fuel filter (aka fuel water separator) the thread type is typically NPT or NPTF and requires sealant around the threads. NPT is a tapered thread common to plumbing connections in North America, and is also the most common thread type in fuel line components. It is critical that you first know the thread type in the component you are purchasing and then mate it with the matching thread type. Most fuel filters, pumps, tank connections, etc., come with female NPT or NPTF ports. To plumb a fuel hose line you must assure the thread type and if NPT or NPTF then use a Male hose barb fitting. Brass or stainless steel is the the go to metal for these components. The matching thread keys into the female thread precisely both on the angle and depth of thread. NPT leaves a minute gap at the very point of the male thread tip and female valley. [see Pipe Thread Standards Explained.] Another thread type sometimes used is UNF such as on the Racor Turbine Fuel Filter series. This thread form is straight and requires the matching UNF thread to mate with. Both of these thread types are designed to work with a sealant.

[nsamiramcmillanw]

Whenever selecting fuel hose type, first assess where the fuel line run will be located. Of primary consideration here is above or below deck. Above deck means in the open (such as an outboard engine connected to an above deck tank). Below decks not only includes below deck areas but also hoses anywhere running through confined compartments. There are four grades of fuel line: A1, A2, B1 and B2. You MUST use A1 fuel hose below deck on the high pressure side (after pump). A1 fuel hose offers the highest fire resistance and the least amount of permeability, in other words A1 is your best choice. A2 has less fire resistance. B type fuel hose is more permeable and used more for less volatile fuels like diesel applications. B1 again has higher fire resistance than B2. If you are in doubt as to which fuel hose is appropriate where, or if you're going to keep fuel hose on the shelf, A1 is the way to go because it works everywhere. [links]

[imanikin]

To choose the appropriate thread sealant, look for its chemical resistance to fuel (diesel or gasoline) or oil running through the line. Backyard mechanics will tell you they've used regular old gas resistant teflon tape (yellow stuff) with success. This is not recommended because it risks breaking free. Liquid or paste type thread sealants are kinder to sensitive components down stream. Mechanics repairing injectors, fuel pumps and carburetors can tell you firsthand it is not uncommon to trace fault in the fuel component to clogging from a piece of teflon tape that washed off the ends of the threads, clogging in the first tiny micron orifice it encounters, if not the fuel pump then an injector or carburetor gallery. Either way, it's a costly repair. Liquid or paste type sealant won't clog. For gasoline, regular old gasoline resistant Aviation Form-a-gasket Number 3 is the best option. Another product also offered by Permatex is the High Temperature Thread Sealant. Tech data on this sealant says it has medium solvent resistance and is recommended for fuel sender type applications. With the advent of ethanol present in modern gasoline, try Form-a-gasket No. 3, which specifically states solvent resistance to gasoline, especially on modern engines that use injectors rather than carburetors such as the E-TEC and HPDI (high pressure direct injection) and any diesel engine.

[wikarus]

Fuel components are no laughing matter - every year boat fires occur from faulty installations. If you're not confident in your installation know-how, it's best for your own safety and the safety of all your passengers to seek help from a certified marine professional. If you've read this far, you're one step closer to a smooth running engine. [links]

[qay]

Due to Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and California Air Resources Board (CARB) emission regulations, many 2-storke outboardswith carburetors or fuel-injection are discontinued. However carbureted outboards outnumber all others by a wide margin and keeping these motors running requires an adequate flow of gasoline and lubricant. Fuel injection is common on 4-strokes which require more involved cleaning if the system becomes contaminated with deposits or debris. The injectors are easily restricted by stale gas, particles from electric gas pumps or corroding metals or damaged gas lines. The old saying “Cleanliness is next to Godliness,” applies to gas components as well as to human beings. [links]

[cryptical]

Now that you have installed new boat fuel system lines and connectors in your boat, make sure that you dispose of the old fuel line responsibly. Do not fling it into the ocean or river or dump it into your waste bin as it can be hazardous to small children and other animals. The fuel line still has oil in it, and it is inflammable. You should wrap it inside a plastic bag and then take it to a particular bin called hazardous material bin to dump it there.

[user]

To evaluate the fuel system, obtain a vacuum gauge, fittings, a pipe-T and clear line. A decent vacuum gauge costs around $10–$20 and is available from hardware stores, industrial-supply companies, or online. Inexpensive automotive pressure/vacuum gauges are not recommended and name-brand professional gauges are preferred if you do not want to make your own. more

[andrew001]

First of all safety is paramount. Always work in a well-ventilated place with no open flames or smoking materials in the vicinity. Use common sense around gasoline or other flammable products and wear eye protection as you never know what may happen. To do the job correctly, always refer to the proper service manual and to latest service literature. [links]

[uncaer9]

Some shops use the automotive dip bucket and others have good luck with ultra-sonic cleaners with various solutions. In extreme cases you may need both items for hard to clean parts. 4-stroke carburetors may have very small passageways that are next to impossible to clean out if seriously varnished up. Aluminum parts corroded from phase-separated ethanol mixtures need replacement due to pitting and the loss of the protective anodizing. [links]

[happyrlt]

Everyone has had at least one of those “ Oh $#!& “ moments when a tiny fastener or carb part rolls off the bench and disappears in the floor. To minimize any aggravating occurrences common kitchen items may be of assistance. Use a cookie sheet pan with raised sides to contain any small parts and to catch liquids that could spill from a carburetor or a vapor separator tank (VST) during disassembly.

[telyni]

I'm a Son of a Bitch and you fucking love me for it. [links]

[JerGermanesls]

Car is the lovely 2000 Hyundai Accent. What do you folks think I should do?

[DanielLeerasiri]

Sep 01, 2011 #3 2011-09-01T15:06 more

[HChris4913]

Sep 01, 2011 #6 2011-09-01T16:03 [links]

[praxeologist]

Sep 01, 2011 #7 2011-09-01T16:05 [links]

[altamic]

Jehannum wrote: Just go and pull one from a wrecked one. You don't want rubber under the car, and it's probably easy to pull, since it's just an FWD shitbox without much running to the back.

[badjava]

Here’s one of mine using my eBay $45 Imperial Brass flaring tool:

[Unthinkingbit]

Would compression fittings and steel line be better? I’d like to double flare and use a union but I’ve never flared and have limited non-rust area in the vehicle so would suck to try double flaring those lines and have to cut them off if it doesn’t come out right

[yrrryyoderj]

Would I be ok running 5 feet of fuel injection hose with fuel clamps or should I use a steel line with compression fittings? Also played around with the idea of a steel line connected by about 3-4 inches of fuel hose at each end into existing lines with clamps.

[Hooquai8]

Dont be worried about an inspection. If gas is rotating in the system without compression leaks, you’re golden. Hoses and clamps brotha.[/quote] more

[maye]

“Do you think a new hardline connected by small pieces of EFI fuel line would be better than all fuel hose or?” No, twice as many connections and places to worry about leaks. I’d only do that if there is something that would damage the hose. usually it is fairly easy to route the hose away from problem areas. [links]

[williambruss112]

This topic contains 15 replies, has 5 voices, and was last updated by Rick Cropper 4 years, 9 months ago.