SiBorg
06.06.2021 6:19:20
Re: DF175 revs in neutral and then Stalls [links]
See full version: DF175 revs in neutral and then Stalls
Re: DF175 revs in neutral and then Stalls [links]
on a df175 has a rev limit which is 3000 rpm in nuetral.so if you use your warm up lever on your control box the motor will not let you go past 3000rpm in nuetral so shift it and give it throttle and see what it does. here
Re: DF175 revs in neutral and then Stalls
stop doing what? how can I fix it?
The rev limiter comes directly to mind.In other words stop doing that.
RPM tables will tell it what you'd like. The airflow tables will actually give it to you. If the airflow tables aren't right, the rpm table values won't do a thing.
You posted this in the Gen 5 section, but said all LS's so I'm assuming you meant Gen 3-4? Anyway, what you want to do is lower the values in the startup air tables, specifically 12194. The first row will be key on, start of cranking. The next rows will be the amount of airflow (throttle opening) that it has after it fires up. Reducing startup flare is usually done in those rows, with a little bit of the first row reduction also. You can basically just keep lowering the values until it gets hard to fire up. Don't be afraid to make drastic changes, it's often the only way you're gonna see how the table works. You're not going blow an engine messing with this stuff.
As with all idle tuning, it's a delicate balance of airflow (throttle opening) and ignition timing. (Assuming your fueling is correct obviously.) You can put 600rpm in the rpm tables, but if the airflow and ignition timing is too high, it's never going to get down to 600. here
I'm going to be changing the car to E85 and am planning on starting with my factory tune to redo it all (I was "learning" during a good portion of my previous tuning, and I'd like to start fresh on some of the things I'm sure I've done wrong). more
Simply put you will want to set the setscrew (good idea is to remove from the bottom and re-install from the top to make on-car adjustments easier) so your IAC Pos is like 40-80 depending on cam size (40-60 mild/big cam and 60-80 stock cam) and TPS volts are < .9/.8 volts. Once set, unplug IAC/TPS connector at TB and put keyon (dont dstart) for 30 sec's. Te attach IAC/TPS connector and validate IAC Pos. May require 2 or 3 iterations to get right. Also if cam is too big, you may have to enlarge the throttle blade hole to get the TPS %/V with in the criteria. Then setup scanner and from a cold start, idle the car from cold to about 200F ECT. Turn off the AC and Fans (via VCM controls). When complete copy and paste the histogram results and fill in the upper and lower data not logged by trending. The goal is to get your LTIT's to -.05 g/sec or so. It is easier also if you disable the LTIT and just use the STIT and you will find how to do that in your search.
Yes, I set the IAC motor where it idles nicely at 900 RPM unplugged the fucker and handled idle speed with spark tuning. [links]
When I hook up my IAC, the car will pull the idle up to
I suppose it could be, but I doubt it. Have the spark plugs also been replaced recently? more
I have a 2004 trailblazer that has rpm surge in drive but runs fine in 3rd I had coil packs go bad so I replaced them. No check engine light and no codes could it be a bad throttle sensor more
A year ago this month, a Subaru dealer tried, unsuccessfully, to replace a “motor AY assembly” aka “tumble generator valve”. When they went to install the part the first time, they broke it. After obtaining a new one, they installed it but the code didn’t clear so they reinstalled the original and called with a recommendation to clean the intake manifold. (It didn’t make sense that the intake manifold would require cleaning since the head gaskets had been replaced in 2019, at which time the manifold presumably would have been inspected/cleaned.) In any case, the dealer wasn’t confident that cleaning the intake manifold would clear the code so they refused to guarantee the work (quoted $1K to do the job). As a second opinion, the car was towed from the dealer to an independent repair shop who replaced the intake manifold gasket — after reporting that the tumble generator valve was physically obstructed by improper alternator installation (a mobile mechanic had replaced the alternator shortly before the P1091 code had appeared).
Just bought a 94 cavalier in fairly good condition. For about two months it ran well, but then the engine light began to come on and after that, it began to be very difficult to start. I would turn the key to start but when I let go, the car engine died, never turning over.
After I had both the fuel injector and the ignition coils replaced, it would start. But after two days it started rough, if at all, the engine only coming on if I held the ignition for half a minute or so without stepping on the gas. So I replaced the fuel filter and now it starts without having to hold the ignition for a prolonged amount of time, yet the engine starts off very rough, off time, for about one to two minutes, until the idle finally settles. I did purchase an idle control sensor (the car vibrates a lot in idle) but I’m beginning to wonder if I also need to change the TPS as well.