mike_la_jolla
05.06.2021 20:09:44
Re: Need to winterize if storing boat indoors? [links]
See full version: Need to winterize if storing boat indoors
Re: Need to winterize if storing boat indoors? [links]
My current garage is heated with radiant floor hot water heat and we love it. Sure it costs a little more to heat it, but so what. I don't keep my boat in there though, just cars. We like it because the snow and ice that accumulates on the car disappears by the time we have to go to work the next morning and the car is already warm and easy to start. My boat has an outboard and doesn't need anything special for winterization.
[Edit: I fogot to ask if you knew just how much a new engine costs? Let's just say well into four figures! Knowing that, would you still risk damaging the engine to avoid winterizing?] more
Gas heaters are available that DO NOT require electricity to operate and they have a built in thermostat. I had one in the garage at my last house and it worked great, kept the temp about 40 F in the garage.
Yes you have to winterize, just to much to risk for a couple of bucks. [links]
Another example is if you have 50 percent water and 50 percent anti-freeze in the engine, the temperature at which the combination of the two might start to freeze between -20 to -35 degrees Fahrenheit, even though the anti-freeze is rated for -50 degree Fahrenheit temperatures. here
But even if your garage is heated, what happens if you have a power failure and your heat is off for 24 hours? Or you, your wife, or one of your kids leave the garage door open all day? By not winterizing the engine, that could be a risky gamble that you don’t want to try taking. more
I read a valuable point on a message board from one user who stated that you should never use an electric blanket, bulb, socket, or switch to try keeping your engine warm in the water. The reason for this is because the fumes from the gasoline could collect in the engine compartment. A slight spark caused by an electrical device could cause an explosion.
Of course, if you properly winterize your outboard before putting it away for the winter, you should be fine.
For example, you could use a 100 percent ratio of a marine anti-freeze that will protect your engine from freezing in temperatures as cold as -50 degrees Fahrenheit. Some brands will even protect your engine up to -100 degree Fahrenheit. more
7. Check, fill, and charge battery. You should check the cells and fill them with water if they are low. (full is to the ring inside the cell or 3/4" from the top) Wash your hands when done to remove any traces of battery acid.
winterizing outboard motor with Boat on the Trailer.
You do not need to take the spark plugs out of the Engine !
2. Remove air box cover. Remove Engine Hood. Then remove the air box cover on the front of the engine, exposing the carburetors.
5.Draining the lower unit lube. Do this by removing the bottom drain screw. Put your container under the lower unit to catch the oil. Then remove the top vent screw to allow the oil to drain. (you will get a quart or less) here
Please do not leave the lower unit empty during the winter.
Rust can form inside on the bearings and gears. [links]
1.Pour the Stabilizer into the gas tank. Mix the stabilizer by shaking the gas tank.
Wet or Dry?
If you live in an area where you don’t get a lot of snow and the waterways don’t freeze, there’s a possibility you can leave your boat in the water. Table Rock Lake in Missouri is a good example. Residents in New York City routinely keep their boats in the water all year at places such as World’s Fair Marina, a short walk from the Mets’ stadium. There are several advantages to keeping your boat in the water. First, your boat’s systems that contain water are less likely to freeze than boats in rack storage, because of the higher ambient temperature. Another plus is the fact you can hop in the boat and go, which lends itself to taking short trips. Using an engine-compartment heater like those made by Xtreme will help protect your I/O motor. Obviously, you have to be able to take immediate action and yank your boat in case the temperature plummets or a storm is predicted.
For boaters up north, there’s not much choice. Sometime not long after the first Green Bay Packers game is played each year, your boat goes into hibernation for the excruciatingly long winter. If you live up nort’, you know the drill: Give the boat a final cleaning, take everything out, fog the engine, remove the batteries, drain and run pink antifreeze through all the water systems, create a PVC-pipe skeleton inside the boat and cocoon your baby in shrinkwrap until the spring metamorphosis. But what about boaters south of the Mason Dixon Line? Is there a way to keep boats safe and still be able to take advantage of the occasional warm spell? Yes. But one word of caution: According to BoatU.S. insurance statistics, the state with the most reported cases of freeze-related boat damage isn’t Wisconsin or Minnesota. It’s California. Huh? Southern states such as Florida also rank high in this category, mostly because boaters there are less prepared. [links]
H2O Horrors
By far the greatest danger of winter boat damage comes from water, which is one of the rare liquids that expands when it freezes. If you plan to use your boat year-round, and you live in a place where the temperature dips below freezing occasionally, you should winterize systems such as the water holding tank, showers, livewells, faucets and the head system — if your boat has them — and don’t use them during winter. It’s just too much of a hassle to winterize and recommission every time you want to go out. Take a bucket instead.
Part of the problem with deciding whether you should fog lies in the fact it’s difficult to predict when you’ll use your boat next. Sometimes, a prolonged cold snap will cause a period of inactivity, but most often it’s the real world intruding into our boating lives that’s the problem. While you might have intended to go boating at least once a month, several months can slide by before you know it. One way to minimize the risk is to start your boat every couple of weeks, even if it’s using the old “fake lake,” aka ear muffs. Don’t leave muffs attached, however, as water might remain inside the engine during a freeze. Also, keep your batteries charged.
Give it to me Straight
For your winter fuel, fill ’er up with non-ethanol gas, to eliminate the possibility of phase separation, which happens after a few months when the ethanol sinks to the bottom of the tank and mixes with water (gas and water don’t mix). Because your fuel pick-up is located on the bottom of your tank, this hair gel-like goop gets “burned” first, which can lead to a catastrophic engine failure. Where can you find unadulterated gas? Go to pure-gas.org and locate the nearest provider on the map. It’s pricy, though, often running $1 more a gallon. For a double-dose of protection, use an additive such as STA-BIL (the regular formula). If you can’t find ethanol-free gas, use STA-BIL’s marine formula.
The other H2O-related issue is water in your engine systems. An outboard is easy. Tilt it down to drain it, and bump the starter to clear the water pump. If you have a closed cooling system, double check that your antifreeze solution is up to snuff. For a raw-water I/O or inboard, make sure, after every use, that you drain the water that lurks internally. Usually, there are drain plugs in the block and on the back bottom of the exhaust. After a few times performing this procedure, you’ll be a pro. Tilt the outdrive down and bump the starter to allow the water pump to fully evacuate.