[danny9robert]

The charge coil is the power source for the power pack and the power pack is the "load" for the charge coil. The charge coils are pretty much a lengthy piece of continuous varnish coated copper wire wrapped around an iron core. Resistance can give you a reasonable test of the coil's status. What typically happens to a charge coil (if it doesn't just open up - max resistance) is that a few turns get shorted to each other through the varnish coating. This has the effect of removing some turns. Fewer turns means less inductance hence a lower output.

[bugmenot]

So, when a charge coil measures questionably against known good specs with a known good meter, you may as well change it. here

[Necrathex]

Re: what does charge coil and sensor do

[generica]

Two sensor coils (1 and 2) are used to trigger ignition at each cylinder. Sensor coil 1/3 controls ignition for cylinders 1 and 3 while sensor 2/4 controls ignition for cylinders 2 and 4. here

[iamjerrytorres]

Also, what charges the battery on an outboard motor? Outboards use a stator instead of an alternator. When the engine is running, magnets on the flywheel spin around a stator, a do-hickey that consists of coils of wire and other stuff. This generates electromagnetic fields that eventually generate your charging current.

[smokelesscigs124]

Nestled in with the stator under the flywheel is the trigger (or timer base). Probably the most overlooked part of the ignition system the trigger sends a signal to the CDI unit (power pack or switchbox) and tells it when to release voltage to the coil. here

[reQunix]

How does a charge coil work?

[Grant]

Also Know, what is the trigger on an outboard? here

[Inedible]

What I can’t figure out is where the charger regulator lives on the boat, or maybe there isn’t one? Boat came with a 2009 20hp 4-stroke Mercury with electric start and 12A “charger”. After reading your post, I’m guessing it is just a rectifier without any way to limit charging to the battery(s)? If that is the case, I would fry my AGM or Li-ion pretty quick right? Is there a type of smart charger to install in between? Thanks for any help!! [links]

[kermit]

In the boat, I ran a 12 AWG duplex (2-wire) cable from the battery along the bottom of the port side of the cockpit sole to the aft vent fitting. I ran the wiring right inside the short vent hose and out the scoop with enough cable to reach the outboard motor where I crimped on the female half of the connector. I covered all exposed cables with flame-retardant woven loom. When disconnected, the boat cable folds neatly out of the way along with the gas line. I spliced a 10 amp fuse holder on the battery end of the positive wire and connected it to the battery’s positive terminal. The negative wire is connected to the negative bus bar nearby.

[casey24lyn]

I’m an electronics novice (planning to get that book to read!), and after reading your post I am still a bit unclear on something… bought my boat last fall and it came with two starter/”deep cycle” Pb acid batteries, both the “maintenance free” wet-cell variety. One is toast, and the other is probably a few years old too, so I’m contemplating replacing both with either two AGM cells or one (to start with) Li-ion battery (probably LiFePO) – boat has a 2-way Perko switch. [links]

[Hansietorse3]

Can the negative wire be connected to the negative post of the battery or does it HAVE to go to some non-battery ground point on the boat? here

[VampireZIM]

Generally speaking, that’s true. But think about this; how much of the time is the motor a current source versus how much of the time is the battery a source? The battery is a source as long as it has a charge, right? The motor is a source only when it’s running and it only puts out a handful of amps. The battery can dump hundreds of amps instantly. And where is a short most likely to happen, across the battery poles or in the outboard wiring? Imagine a following swell swamping the motor. Then the motor becomes an infinite load on the battery. The wiring between the battery and the motor could fry anywhere along its length in an enclosed space possibly containing gasoline fumes. Wouldn’t you want a fuse to blow first and as close to the battery as possible? If the battery gets swamped to the point that it shorts out, you’ve got bigger problems and the outboard probably isn’t going to be much of a help. [links]

[GLR444]

My goal for the onboard wiring was to be able to easily connect and disconnect the motor for trailering with a heavy-duty waterproof connector. I wanted the process to be as simple as connecting the fuel line. But I didn’t want to mount a cable connector in the hull that required drilling another hole.

[MaXviUs]

[ QUOTE ]
Should be no problem. The output is regulated to charge the battery, and the battery also acts like a very big capacitor and will iron out most electrical noise.

[tuxsoul]

A reading of 11.5v when supplying a plotter indicates as you say either a flat battery or a very poor connection somewhere. more

[jirka]

[/ QUOTE ] I'll stick my neck out and say it wont have! more