See full version: How to Test a Stator
Set your multimeter to Ohms. Put the negative lead on the engine’s ground and the positive lead on each wires of the stator’s connector one by one. You shouldn’t get a reading at all. If you get a reading, even very small, on any wire, the stator is defective and must be changed. here
You will need a multimeter set to Ohms for this test. Test every lead of the stator’s connector and note the readings. The reading of each combination should be the same (test leads 1-2, 2-3, and 3-1). If they are different, your stator is defective. here
To know without a doubt if your stator is defective, there are 3 simple tests you can do.
Put your multimeter to AC Volts and start you vehicle. As with the Ohms test, test between each lead of the connector (1-2, 2-3, 3-1) and note the readings. They should all be the same (E.g. 20v/20v/20v). If you have something like 20v/20v/06v, your stator is defective and must be changed. more
If you think you have a defective stator, we suggest that you go through all 3 tests before replacing it, to make sure you eliminate every problem.
Lastly, a short circuit could cause the failure of the system. Electricity will always take the easiest path, so if given a chance to bypass elements through a better conductor, it will. Look for places where foreign conducting materials might be resting against the terminals of various components. This includes the frame: if terminals or uninsulated wiring is in contact with the frame they will short circuit. [links]
If you find that your system is an open circuit, follow this procedure: [links]
Update 4/25/14:
I've found that a charger producing 15 volts is enough to charge the battery in a reasonable amount of time. I don't know if this voltage is high enough to overcharge the battery if left charging indefinitely. As mentioned before the guides for regular 12 volt batteries don't quite apply because the smaller ones are of a different construction that produce 13-14 volts, so I have no reference range for charger voltages. If you're worried about overcharging, you can unplug the charger after several hours. Most of the charging is done near the beginning anyway. Alternatively, to check the status you can put an ammeter (multimeter) in series with the charger. When the amperage drops significantly from the initial reading it's time to disconnect. Make sure the meter is in the 10 Amp or similar range. This setting often requires moving a lead to a different port. I'm using a universal laptop charger with the end prepared the same way as described for the wall chargers. 15 volts and up is unusual for regular wall chargers, so you might have to drop 10 bucks on a laptop charger. In a few weeks I will be consolidating this page and removing obsolete material.
The stator coil generates the power for the spark plug and other accessories on small engines Without a stator there would be no spark at all, meaning the engine won't run. While a stator is dying, it can produce a weak spark, causing the engine to miss or run poorly. Symptoms are often worsened as the engine warms up.
The cost of a new stator can be hundreds of dollars. Without a good stator, your engine will run poorly or not at all. This solution completely bypasses the stator by using a 12 volt battery to power the ignition system. Everything required can be purchased for under $50. It will work on all contact breaker point engines (old style), and some electronic controlled ignition (newer style) ones. The guide is for contact breaker systems. Note that as written this system will bypass the CDI portion of your ignition system (if present) and replace it with a more traditional one.
Here are the steps to gain access: more
24 years man that must be a tough coarse to pass hu here
I think a stock stator on a stock engine will only reasonably fit one way. It's a non issue unless you take a room full of junk and racing parts and make one of the water demons that is the norm around here.
lol like trex said this is my un professssssinal oooopinoin more
This iz juss my unprofessional opinion and unorthadox'd tess'in, and not nessarily tha opinion ov this station.
I'm an old (literally) circuit design tech. Is someone has a circuit diagram of the inside of a switchbox, I could noodle out the theory pretty easily. [links]
We hope this article has helped you out in figuring out if your regulator rectifier is operating correctly and what it does! Now that you know all about them! We encourage you to stop by our YouTube channel for more guidance and practical tips!
It really depends on your boat’s setup. [links]
Thankfully, it doesn’t cost much to replace the regulator rectifier on your outboard, especially if you do the work yourself. Most manufacturers will include a wiring diagram to make the process smoother for you as well! here
While these symptoms are generally clear-cut, we still recommend using our testing method above to ensure your problem is the regulator. here
But the replacement of this part is relatively easy and usually doesn’t require any special tools at all!
To determine if you have a bad rectifier, you will need to test it. more