See full version: How to Winterize an outboard motor: Fall Layup Essentials Explained
On bigger outboards that have them, loosen water pump, alternator and power steering drive belt, to lessen the tension on those component's bearings. Inspect the drive belts for cracks or frayed edges. Replace as necessary. Grease the steering linkage, shift cable, tilt/trim mechanisms, and swivel points. Greasing expels water preventing it freezing, expanding and breaking parts. Zerk fittings that won't take lube should be unscrewed and replaced. [links]
Like an obsessive compulsive personality, examine the dirty oil for water, bits of broken gear teeth and bronze grit. Obviously these metal particles mean further repairs are necessary. Dip your finger in the oil and sniff it. If the odor is burned, further investigation is warranted. Assuming oil is well, refill the lower unit with the factory recommended lubricant. Fill from the bottom so no air bubbles prevent completely filling of the oil reservoir. When lubricant spills out the top hole, the housing is full. Insert the top drain plug first. Make certain each drain plug has one and only one gasket, and that no gasket is lodged in the casting's recess. Filling is neater when using a little handpump. One model attaches to gear oil tubes, another quart cans of gear oil. They make life simple.
Start the engine. Running the motor at fast idle circulates treated fuel throughout the filters and the carburetor, or in the case of an EFI motor, its injectors. Once the engine is warmed up, shut it off. If you're working on a four-stroke outboard motor, immediately drain the crankcase oil so it's hot. The reason why is as simple as the sea is salt. With all the acids and corrosive elements held in suspension, they spill out along with the hot, dirty crankcase oil instead of etching vital ring and bearing surfaces during the winter months. At the same time you drain the oil, also replace the filter so that no contaminated oil fouls the clean, new lubricant. But before installing the new filter, first fill it. That way connecting rod and crankshaft bearings don't have to wait for the oil pump to first fill a dry filter before sending lubricant onward through the oil galleys. Another tip: Dab a fingerfull of oil around the filter gasket to help it seal against the block. With the new filter in place and the oil-level topped of, restart the engine, check the filter base for leaks.
Drain the gearcase oil. Otherwise, trapped water could freeze, expand and break the housing. First, loosen the bottom drain plug just enough so whatever liquid is in the gearcase trickles out. A few drops of water followed by lubricant is OK. But more than an ounce and the gearcase should be pressured-checked to find which seal is leaking, so it can be replaced. The one ounce of water is not an arbitrary number. Gear oil blenders researched exactly how little water it takes to destroy a gear set.
Rust-proof cylinder walls by fogging their surfaces with a super-sticky oil. With the engine idling, shut off its fuel supply so its running on just the treated fuel in the carburetor float bowl. Just as the engine starts to die, rpm will climb. At this precise moment, begin furiously squirting fogging oil down the carburetor throat. Flood the engine with a mist of fogging oil until it stops running. [links]
You may also want to flush the cooling system then make sure it's drained. Water expanding below 4 degrees can cause a bit of damage.
Boats used on saltwater are flushed regularly so it can't harm. here
See the owners manual ( down load one if you have mislaid your copy) and carry out all the recommended inspection and maintenance tasks
This includes changing the gear oil which you will unlikely be able to do with the engine mounted on the boat, more
Oxford County Pontoon would like to thank all of our customers for their business and reply to a number of inquiries on winterizing and storing their outboard motors for winter.
Mist-coat powerhead with an anti corrosionadd spray. here
Clean all pivots and visible gears and protect them for the winter with oil or grease, as specified in your owner’s manual. more
Sierra Synthetic Blend Gear Lube
Starbrite Fuel Stabilizer protects gas and engine components during storage.
Starbrite Fuel Stabilizer
Starbrite Fogging Oil prevents corrosion when storing inboard engines for an extended period of time. here
Starbrite Fogging Oil [links]
Kit includes: more