andy
11.06.2021 10:04:43
Drills aren’t meant for side pressure, and stainless is really unforgiving. [links]
See full version: Pro Tips: How to Drill Stainless Steel
Drills aren’t meant for side pressure, and stainless is really unforgiving. [links]
They should look like this: [links]
The down side to using WD-40 is that it’s an extremely light oil and it can get pretty messy. here
Then re-clamp the workpiece, fire the drill back up, and go to town.
Unclamp the workpiece and apply gentle pressure with the non-rotating drill bit to center the hole under the drill.
How can you drill stainless steel? Drilling stainless steel needs to be done with sharp bits, low RPM, higher cutting pressure (feed), and lots of lube/coolant. High RPM will lead to immediate burned-out drill bits.
Many people have a tendency to drill at as high a speed as possible assuming that the faster the drill bit is turning the quicker it will drill the hole. This is a big mistake, particularly when drilling stainless steel. Stainless steel is not the hardest of metals in its natural form, however as pointed out by Chip Lawson in his piece ‘Know How: Drilling Stainless Steel’, stainless steel will ‘work harden’ fairly quickly when heated, and one sure way to increase heat is to drill fast. Once the stainless steel is work hardened it will become very difficult to drill. here
Certainly of all the metals out there stainless steel is the one that seems to cause most problems for people when it comes to drilling. Hopefully after reading our pointers and watching the informative video by The Ultimate Handyman you will feel confident enough to drill any stainless steel which comes your way.
It may seem obvious to some that when two metal surfaces are moving against each other under pressure that lubrication is necessary. However many will drill metal without any form of lubrication. A good drilling Lubricant will reduce the friction and assist in controlling temperature build up. There are many types of drilling lubricant available including oils, sprays and pastes. Our advice would be to use one rather than not using any.
Because so many people ask how to drill through stainless steel we decided to dedicate a page to this topic.
There are many drill bit speed charts available quoting revolutions per minute, in reality not too many people will be able to relate to these figures. Our advice would be to drill at as slow a speed as your power drill will allow. [links]
The arbor isn’t specific to the hole saw, but it’s a vital part nonetheless. It’s the type of tool bit used to grip other moving tool components, essentially the connecting part between your hole saw and your power drill. Most, but not all, hole saws are supplied with an arbor – you’ll occasionally need to purchase your own, so pay attention when you buy. more
Let’s take a breath before diving into the particulars of using a hole saw to consider why exactly you’d want to. Other tools can cut holes, so what makes a hole saw the go-to among professionals? here
Understand TPI as a measure of tooth frequency along the blade. For example, 18 TPI means 18 teeth per inch, so that tooth frequency is higher than that of a 16 TPI hole saw. TPI numbers vary, but they stay within the general ballpark of 20 to 2. more
Finished with your latest project? Take a few minutes to see your hole saw properly stored if you want it ready to go next time round. It’s not too hard – simply store your hole saws in a dry place where they won’t be knocked about or corroded by the elements.
Here’s how. Start by using a center punch and a hammer or mallet to mark the spot where you need to cut the hole—let’s say, for argument’s sake, you are shooting for a 1/2-incher. Then use a bit that’s considerably smaller than the hole you want to ultimately cut—a 1/8-inch or a 5/32-inch bit would constitute a pretty good bet in this case—and start cutting with your drill at approximately half speed, with medium pressure. The point here is to apply enough revs and pressure to prevent binding but not so much that you produce temperatures that nix the bit’s temper or hardness. more
Here’s the trick, however. Once your bit’s made an entry and a few cuttings have been swept aside, dip the bit in a cup of water to cool it off and continue doing so every 10 to 15 seconds until you’ve finished the hole. Water’s the coolest coolant in this kind of situation because it’s easier to work with and clean up than cutting oil or paste. Moreover, you’re most likely going to be using a middle-of-the-road, black-oxide-coated bit on a task like this, not a rarefied, high-speed tool that’s seriously pricey, so repeatedly dousing the thing in water is no big deal. here
All of which is a pile of baloney, of course. Drilling holes even in exceptionally hard stainless is fairly easy, even if you have comparatively simple, low-tech tools. The key is keeping the production of friction-generated heat to a minimum, either with cooling pastes and liquids or—believe it or not—plain ol’ water. more
Capt. Bill Pike is deputy editor of our sister publication Power & Motoryacht magazine.
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