See full version: How To Reduce Electromagnetic Interference in Solar Systems
In addition to all the above, you may have to construct a screen around the entire inverter, then connect the screen itself to earth ground. This screen should NOT come into contact with the inverter housing. To do so would defeat the purpose of the screen. However, properly filtered DC and AC leads may pass through it.
Interference from inverters will always be an issue. It's a difficult topic for many to understand .. and equally difficult to reduce. Note you can reduce .. but not eliminate the interference. more
String inverters connected to a series array of PV operate on the same principals, but at lower currents and higher voltages than their battery-based counterparts. more
In this case, you'll be constructing a "Faraday shield", which will keep interference inside. Surprisingly, this can be ferrous or non-ferrous metal. I'd recommend ferrous (such as chicken wire with small openings), for ease of soldering. Build a "box" around the inverter, including the back of the inverter. To do this, you'll need a board or other means to keep the inverter enclosure from contacting the wire.
As mentioned earlier in this thread, it's best to reduce the interference at the source - in this case, the inverter. here
We sell some cables - mainly for such things as shunt signal wires - that are shielded twisted pairs. That type cable is very effective in keeping noise in or out of wires. But shielded twisted pair wire in larger sizes can be hard to find and very expensive. View our recommendation here.
(The 10W equivalent anchor LED does not interfere). [links]
Five years ago I replaced the 25W filament bulb in the tricolour section of the light with a 25W equivalent white LED from Ultraleds. I was quite happy with the light intensity, colour, sector cut-offs etc. but dismayed to discover that the bulb interfered with the VHF rendering it unuseable. I went back to a filament bulb. [links]
I presume the "regulator" is integrated withe the LED "bulb", so no practical to attempt to replace the switching regulator with a linear one. Also, rather than the step-down (reduce the voltage) regulator suggested by earlier posters, it may well be a step-up regulator, allowing several LED chips wired in series as this format is more efficient.
(The 10W equivalent anchor LED does not interfere).
Mobile phone chargers and Navtex often being particularly incompatible. more
Get a few replacement parts and a 12 V soldering iron and hardly anything can happen while you are off the grid!
– If the smith trigger is triggered by the 14.2 V, it turns on the relay. [links]
In my car the transceiver is not connected to the body of the car: Everything going to the transceiver has ferrite on it. here
If you know which end of the soldering iron gets hot there might be a very simple solution: [links]
Slip a grounded, tubular braid (from some old coax, perhaps) over connecting cords on the device.
From an ARRL Handbook:
Magnetic Properties of Iron Powder Cores more
There has been a trend in recent years to solar panels with regulators and inverters; properly built and installed, these can greatly reduce the loop area and thus the noise. Because the power leaves the panel as 120VAC (or even 240V), wiring from the panel is usually in conduit. And because the output of the panel is at the higher line voltage, the current is much less than if it were at battery voltage. RF trash produced is directly related to current, so all of these factors can com- bine to result in less radiated noise if the units are well designed.
Pin One Problems on both input and output cables cause hum, buzz, and RFI, and signal flow logic cannot be used to find them, because layout of the signal return path, which often has nothing to do with the signal path, determines where noise is injected. And because the cable shield connects to some random point inside the unit, any noise present at that point will couple onto the cable shield and be radiated by the shield. This is a major cause of RFI from equipment.
Y1 and Y2 capacitors, which are specifically rated for AC line use and designed to withstand the kV spikes that can occur on power wiring. Choose this capacitor carefully – if it fails, it could catch on fire! [links]
It’s quite difficult to locate the source of power line noise at low frequencies, both because the wires radiating those components them are so long, and also because the noise may travel along the lines as a differential signal, creating peaks and nulls in voltage and current (power lines are transmission lines at RF as well at power frequencies). The key to locating the source of power line noise and other impulse noise is to search for it at VHF and UHF. I own several tools that work well for this. If the source is within walking distance, a handheld AM RX that can tune to VHF and/or UHF is a big help. I have two – a Kenwood talkie, and a Tecsun PL660. The Tecsun PL660 and PL880 receive AM on the MF and LF AM bands, and from just above the 160M band to nearly 30 MHz. The PL660 also receives AM on the MHz aviation band, while the PL880 does not. The PL880 got a positive review from ARRL Labs a few years back. The Tecsun radios use DSP technology, and happen to be excellent AM and FM receivers for both SWL and entertain- ment. The can receive AM from just above the audio spectrum to 1.3 GHz (although it’s not very sensitive below VHF), and maintains maximum sensitivity to about 550 MHz. If the source is beyond easy walking distance, a VHF/UHF FM mobile rig that also tunes AM is a great tool. My current favorite is a Kenwood
Typical Plasma TV Noise Spectra are shown in Figs 12 and 13 (K6GFJ) and Fig 14 (K7PI). K6GFJ’s data is from his K3/P3/SVGA fed by a low dipole, and looking at his own NEC PlasmaSync 50MP2 TV. The bottom of each of the amplitude displays is the noise level at Ross’s QTH in a San Jose res- idential neighborhood. Fig 8, from K7PI’s SDR, shows a wider spectrum for his neighbor’s plasma [links]
the clamps in Table 1; for wind 7 turns, and more