See full version: Scott Atwater 1-25 Fuel line help needed
I had one of these a while ago, but unfortunately I can’t remember how it switched over. I’m pretty sure there was a permanent mount for the external tank fitting. What I do remember is that it all leaked when using the onboard tank. And the tank is steel and hard to keep from rusting. So I went with what you have… onboard tank is bypassed, inlet goes directly to the fuel pump. [links]
I am restoring this 1-25 and am having a hard time figuring out these fuel lines. Pictured is the way I found the configuration when I started on the motor. This setup makes no sense. The setup shows a connection for a external tank. (Black rubber fuel line Arrow C). Arrow A shows a tube going from the on-board fuel tank as a drain tube (arrow B). This is the ONLY fuel connection on the gas tank. How can that be a drain. I have no other motor or any pictures to show how this is supposed to be so my question is: Was there an external fuel tank option on these motors or is that rubber fuel line (C) supposed to be going where the drain tube (A,B) is? Or is this supposed to be configured another way?
So your saying that the fuel pump setup is an aftermarket kit?
I thought this was a dual source fuel setup. Either use the onboard tank or the external tank. It never occurred to me that it is converted to an external tank only. That might explain why the onboard fuel tank just has a drain tube, although why put a drain tube on something that is no longer used. That’s too deep for me to ponder! here
You must be logged in to access attached files.
Looking at my naked 10-hp, I’d say you’d just have to fake it. The fuel pump kit is an afterthought, so there’s no provision from the factory to accommodate it. I have a ’53 10-hp Firestone that came with a fuel pump, but it has the later-style carrying handle lower pan where the inlet line is mounted. The picture of the kit just shows a clamp on the inlet hose, I guess one could clamp it to the outside of the lower cowl ? Now that you bring this up, I’m going to reconsider my plan to move the fuel pump off the Firestone lol here
Discount Marine Parts has been in the Marine business since 1972. Over the years we have been a McCulloch, Chrysler, Evinrude, Mercury and Volvo dealer. That being said, we carried parts for most makes, no matter how obscure the brand, if we don’t have them, we may know where to find them. here
We will research and try to find your obsolete part.
When possible we will supply NOS or have it made. more
Phone: 906-466-2180
Fax: 207-512-1302
Address: PO Box 98 6278 E.5 Road
Bark River , MI 49807
This motor idles and runs well and is about as fast as the same year Johnson 5 1/2. Like many of the Scott's, high speed running can be annoying due to the cover rattling.
Another problem with this motor is the fuel system. The fuel valve is actuated by the magneto lever and a pretty complex unit that not only turns off the gas but also opens & closes the air vent for the tank. It took some patience and a lot of work to get it to function and not leak. The Tillotson carburetor is equipped with another unique Scott device, a fuel drain. Since the fuel valve is controlled by the magneto, you can't run it out of gas when you want to put it away. The idea is to turn the carburetor control knob to zero and push it in, this actuates the drain. It opens a valve in the float bowl that drains out the bottom of the carb, through a tube and overboard. A friend of mine in the outboard club refers to this feature as "the Devil's own device" since it perpetually leaks! (Ruining your fuel economy and not making you any friends with the EPA.)
Comments:
The Scott Atwater Gold Pennant is a runner - but standard equipment needs to be some earplugs! This motor will go, and very fast. The problem is the darn motor cover is a NIGHMARE of rattles and I think it actually amplifies the booming noise of the motor. The boat next to me when the photo to the left was taken (Running a Johnson 20) commented that it was loud to him 20' away! At 3/4 throttle it is bearable and the motor idles and runs at low speed very nicely.
Comments:
Firestone got the bail-a-matic leg at some point in the later half of the 1950's. (It uses the same miserable waterpump design as the Scotts, minus the extra impeller housing for the bailer) The engine hood styling is essentially unchanged from 1954 but it now incorporates clips so the starboard side can be easily removed for access to the plugs. (The previous edition was screwed together)
1953 Firestone 5 hp.
(Manufactured for Firestone by Scott-Atwater) here
Once the issues noted above were solved, this motor has become something of a favorite. I really enjoy the elegant styling and it is reasonably quiet and smooth. In addition to being in good shape cosmetically, I was able to acquire an original stand and manual for this motor. Now I really wish I had been able to get the one I had as a kid to run.
Another way to prevent getting this page in the future is to use Privacy Pass. You may need to download version 2.0 now from the Chrome Web Store.
Completing the CAPTCHA proves you are a human and gives you temporary access to the web property.
If you are on a personal connection, like at home, you can run an anti-virus scan on your device to make sure it is not infected with malware.
If you are at an office or shared network, you can ask the network administrator to run a scan across the network looking for misconfigured or infected devices.
Cloudflare Ray ID: 6877ec0aad1fcb00 • Your IP : 46.32.66.208 • Performance & security by Cloudflare here