Mackendra99
22.05.2021 16:17:57
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If you are at an office or shared network, you can ask the network administrator to run a scan across the network looking for misconfigured or infected devices. here
If you are on a personal connection, like at home, you can run an anti-virus scan on your device to make sure it is not infected with malware. more
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Cloudflare Ray ID: 688041c4a855758f • Your IP : 46.32.66.208 • Performance & security by Cloudflare
Address if sent by US Postal Service:
BW Inc
attn: Jeff (Place your order number)
PO Box 150
Browns Valley, MN 56219
This problem can be caused by a few things. Some of the steps are basic, however we want to cover all of them just in case.
Address if sent by UPS:
BW Inc
attn: Jeff (Place your order number)
316 West Broadway
Browns Valley, MN 56219
Note: When shipping, make sure all gas is completely drained from the carburetor. We recommend putting the carburetor in a zip lock bag, then packing in a box with foam peanuts and/or bubble wrap.
Again, when sending a carburetor back, please include a note stating the exact problem. On that note, please include your complete name, address and phone number, along with your e-mail so we can reach you if we have any questions.
If the carb does not drip from booster during any of the above scenario, then you your IDLE air bleeds/passage may be blocked, allowing a siphon affect to happen with a very low negative pressure. Main boosters normally will not start flowing fuel until the engine starts to turn 2000 RPM or so. There has to be enough air flowing through the booster to create a SIPHON (negative pressure) affect. Plenty of you tube video showing this. Hope this helps you find your problem [links]
Do you have an electric fuel pump? If so, turn the pump (don't start the engine) on and watch the booster. Is it still dripping? If so you are either over pressurizing the needle & seat or the the needle & seat is not properly closing. If you have a mechanical fuel pump, unplug power to the distributor, have someone try to start the car for 7-10 secs. While turning over is the booster dripping? If so, same thing as above. Either needle & seat not seating properly or your over pressurizing the needle & seat. here
Take it apart, and clean it again. One of the orifices is plugged that's supposed to "let" in air. Example: Take a straw and poke a hole in it. Try sucking a liquid with the straw, and the hole (above the liquid) not covered. It will be "hard" to suck the liquid. Now "plug" the hole and try sucking the liquid through the straw again. It will be very "easy".[links]
Very weird. Only way for fuel to drip out the booster is if there is a "siphon" effect going on or pressure issue. Pressure issue would be caused by the needle & seat not properly shutting off incoming fuel. I know you say you have tried different float level, but are you 100% sure the incoming fuel is being "SHUT OFF" at float level. Do you have a site glass on your fuel bowls? What's your fuel pressure at? Possible you over pressuring the carb?more
And make 100% sure the float levels are right. There are some passageways in Holleys that have to be covered with fuel, or they start acting "funny".
I checked:
1. The float level: it is ok, as there is no fuel coming out of the sight plug of the primary fuel bowl.
2. Needle and seats: are ok, new.
3. The fuel pressure: its 5 psi which is also fine.
4. The floats: tested, they are not leaking (they shouldn't as it was running fine with the bad main body).
5. The power valve and its gasket: no leaks.
6. The accelerator pump diaphragm: no leaks.
7. The idle air bleed jets: open.
8. Gaskets: ok and not covering any holes inside the main body/metering block.
9. The choke valve: working correctly.
The booster, in the middle of the venturis, should also not be leaking any fuel during an idle or engine off condition. The booster should not begin to flow till about 1800-2000 rpm. If the booster is dripping at idle or engine off condition, then either the fuel level is to high in the bowl, or there is trash in the needle seat not allowing fuel flow to stop.
The air bleed nozzles are all blown through with compressed air and open.