Cablesaurus
07.06.2021 0:34:31
Toss the cans if they don't work. [links]
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Toss the cans if they don't work. [links]
I was talking to a lady who has a son that does product testing. He told her to be very, very careful due to the chemicals in that yellow and red can of foam. Just getting it on your skin produces a toxic load on your liver in proportion to the amount contacting the skin. AND you know, nothing but the compainies special toweletts will remove the stuff from your hide. [links]
As I was insulating my workshop with full size sheets of foam and wearing old clothes, a dust mask and safety glasses, I used this canned foam to fill any gaps between the sheets' rough edges and the walls. I had an unopened can of this foam, but it had set on the shelf for over 6 months. When I tried to use it, it appeared to be still liquid, but the valve would not allow the foam to come out. I banged the plastic spout and straw on the inside wall only to snap off the short spout and have the foam squirt out sideways, covering one side of the dusk mask and one lens of my safety glasses. I SHUTTER to think what my face and right eye would have had to go through when covered with that "STUFF". [links]
The first cu.ft. works great, you will get about 1/3 of your doors and windows done,and its actually kinda fun. here
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where . Excellence is its own reward! [links]
Similarly, can spray foam lift concrete? here
Geolift can help to lift existing concrete surfaces and fix those problem areas around your house with much less labor. Patch up the holes with concrete, and your new driveway (or sidewalk, or walkway) will look good as new.
Subsequently, question is, what kind of foam is used to lift concrete? polyurethane foam
How do I raise my concrete sinking? [links]
Traditional spray foam does not react aggressively enough to raise concrete slabs. In order to raise concrete, you must use material specially designed to do so. here
My suggestion which I ignored because it went in so nuce and easy and time was so critical is always open your windows before you foam them in place. more
"this has to be some sort of tale to excuse an improperly squared and installed window. spray foam just doesn't have enough density to force a properly secured jamb."That would be an incorrect assumption.I have been successfully using can foam for window installs for a hundred years, more or less ( OK so I exaggerate a bit) But I have also seen some pretty funny disasters from DIYs trying too hard. You really can bow a window frame in 3/8" per side and stop it from operating here
Sorry to say most finish carpenters don't know how or where to shim a window. or even if the window requires shimming or not. You'd be surprised at the number of window and door problems 10 years down the road strictly resulting from improper shiming. I know one local builder that has easily installed 2000 windows in the last 5 years. Not a single one of them was installed per instructions and I gave up trying to correct the problem through education. He knew the proper way to install a window and instructions were for idiots. all you had to do was ask him. The upside is next month he will finish his last house and be officially out of biz. opening a very lucrative market for me.
Great Stuff can most assuredly move a 3/4 pine board.
I’d go with whatever works best for you based on the application. In most of my experience I like the serrated knife. [links]
hi. I have an eleven ft floor joist that cracked in a project I’m on. It’s totally lathered in the spray foam. A more stubborn kind. Do you still maintain the bread knife being the best way to go? I have to cut one side of the joist’s/beam’s foam away and remove as much as possible then tack up a support beam, same size. It’s all jacked up a ready to go and I was thinking about what to use exactly to cut through the foam. Some areas being four, five inches +. Thanks in advance for any suggestions. [links]
130 watts) If you have ever purchased rigid foam, you have probably noticed how clean the edges are and how few holes and gaps there are compared to the foam you have cut with a traditional blade. That is because manufacturers use hot knives to cut the foam. The heat melts the foam and the motion of the blade or wire seals up many of the smaller holes, leaving a nice clean edge. Fortunately hot knives are not expensive. Most home improvement and craft stores carry a variety for around $20.
Hey guys, I just want to share my method of removing spray foam. I tried serrated blades, razor blades, blades of grass, shoulder blades, and all were not working as I needed them to, sooo, I went and grabbed my trusty machete, the blade is thin, strong and sharp, you can get under and behind the foam with ease,and pry with it just enough to pop the stuff off of there a piece at a time. [links]
What I really wanted to know…. after you trim the foam (I use the edge of a putty knife that I sharpened with a file) the hard seal is cut away leaving the foam looking like an open cell foam rather than the hard coating that forms on the outside if you would leave it alone. Does this make the insulating value less? Is there something you can paint over this to make it seal even better, higher R-value?