Maykel
09.05.2021 7:51:58
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Post by warmstrong1955 » Sat Sep 01, 2012 10:39 pm
I know how to have a clean garage too. Dont put anything in it! What fun would that be?
Well. I believe in the ol' "you get what you pay for".
Post by Richard_W » Sat Sep 01, 2012 11:13 am more
I read somewhere on a list of tools for beginners that it would be better to buy an el cheapo caliper from HF or the like and save the big expense for a good mic. The reasoning was that if you needed anything more precise, you should be using a mic anyway. Plus, Kinetic maintenance (Aka hammer fixing) is not heart breaking. While I equally love using and collecting tools, thus usually ending up going way over budget to buy some coveted gizmos, I do agree on the logic of this. here
One is a Mitutoyo, that I broke the lens on, need to see the jeweler for one, and two that are off name that work just fine. There is something to say about some HF stuff, and that is below average, even though I buy a considerable amount of mechanical stuff there.
According to one test I've read, Interapids require about half the force of a Starrett Last Word; imported ones required about 2-3x more than the Starrett or 4-6x more than the Interapid. That would make Interapid a better choice.
The "best" is arguable and others will have their own opinions/preferences. The "best" DTIs in my book are made by Interapid. Any name brand DTI should serve you well, even an inexpensive import if you take care of it & especially for hobby work. Mitutoyos & Starretts are amongst the most popular but there are other name brands like Browne & Sharpe, Fowler, SPI, etc. Keep in mind that some of these companies have less expensive import versions too. I prefer Mitutoyo which most of my measuring tools are & I'd rather buy a used Mitu than buy a new cheap import when it comes to measuting tools. An Interapid DTI is on my list to get though.
2. Bezel friction. I have found that the bezels on good indicators turn smoothly and with little effort; friction is just enough to hold the bezel in place securely should you accidentally touch it.
(Moving this to the Metrology section.) more
Do yourself a favor though and read the link I posted. Ton of great information there. here
I am in the process of building a shop and equipping it with a lathe and milling machine. Obviously, I am going to need several dial indicators in both 0.0005 and 0.0001 configurations. I already have several 0.001 indicators. The prices for dial test indicators are all over the map. I am of the opinion that you never go wrong by buying quality, but price and name brand do not always indicate quality. My question is this:
The author of the first first link talks about using a special test bar ordered from McMaster-Carr, but any accurately ground rod will do. The author of the second link used a rod scrounged from a printer. I have some linear shafting I use for this, it's available for cheap on ebay. 1/2" drill rod would work OK, too. You don't want a rod that is small enough to be significantly deflected by the force of the dial indicator plunger. but if using RDM that may not matter.
There are some web pages describing how to align the head to the column on a mini mill. Here's one, and this one is a little more detailed. BTW, you don't need to remove the column in order to evaluate how bad (or good) the alignment is. I evaluated my mini mill and decided that it was good enough for most of my needs.
Unfortunately, the mini mill design doesn't have a built-in way to adjust the alignment. You have to use shims on one axis and hope there's enough rotational slop in the other to get to where you want to go.