Step 4: Select the Model of your engine. here
See full version: Find the Propeller for Your Boat
Step 4: Select the Model of your engine. here
You will need to know your engine manufacturer, model or horsepower to determine which propellers will fit your boat. Once listed, you can then determine the size you are looking for. Once you provide the specifications on your engine, we will display all of the propellers that fit your engine. You will then be able to filter based on diameter, pitch, material, # of blades, etc. [links]
Step 1: Select the Type of Engine (Outboard, Sterndrive, or Ski/Wake).
Finding the correct propeller is as easy as 4 steps.
Alternatively, if you have the existing part # that is stamped on your prop, you can find all matching props here. here
Using your existing propeller, determine your maximum obtainable r.p.m.. If during this test, you begin to exceed the maximum rated r.p.m. of the engine, reduce the throttle setting. If the engine over-revs beyond the maximum recommended r.p.m., you may need to increase the pitch of the propeller. Increasing the pitch increment by 2" will result in approximately a 200-400 r.p.m. drop. Also, switching from an uncupped to a cupped propeller will reduce your r.p.m (see "Cupping" paragraph below). The cupped propeller of the same pitch and diameter will typically reduce your r.p.m. by approximately 200. If you cannot reach maximum r.p.m., then pitch should be decreased. These recommendations apply to single engine installations only. For most twin engine installations it is necessary to increase pitch by 4".
The goal in propeller selection is to determine what style and size will maximize your boat's performance, while allowing your engine to operate in the recommended r.p.m. range. The correct propeller will prevent the engine from over-revving, yet allow it to reach the minimum r.p.m. where the maximum horsepower is produced, with ideal engine loading.
Pitch, the second number listed in the propeller description, is defined as the theoretical forward movement of a propeller during one revolution. Since there is almost always a small amount of "slip" between the propeller and the water, the actual distance travelled is slightly less. [links]
Props spin either clockwise (standard or right-hand rotation) or counter-clockwise (counter or left-hand rotation).
We tell you everything you need to know about props from cupping to ventilation. here
A boat with twin engines and two boat props spinning in the same directionats will have a lot of steering torque. Two right-hand (or standard rotation) propellers pull the stern hard to the right and the bow to the left.
Next give the prop a quick inspection. See if the blades are in the same plane when you spin it, and check for bent blades or bad dings in the blades. A bent prop won't perform well, and will also spin out of balance, again putting undo stress on the shaft seals and bearings. You might feel this through the wheel or tiller, although hydraulic steering can mask this vibration. A good prop shop can repair minor blade damage. more
One of my service experts, marine technician Dan Jansen of Mr. Marine in Fond du Lac, Wis., (www.mrmarineinc.com), specializes in rigging and servicing high-performance bass and walleye boats, craft that see a lot of hours and a lot of abuse to the prop area from striking bottom. He starts by tilting up the motor to get the prop to a comfortable working height, and then gives the prop a spin.
Boating with a bent shaft is like driving with a wheel out of balance - it will put a lot of stress on those propshaft seals and on the bearings that support the shaft. I watched Jansen use a dial gauge clamped to an outboard skeg to check the run out on a suspect shaft. He said run out of 0.007-inch is acceptable by Mercury service specs, and that you can notice a shaft with 0.015-inch with your eye. more
Place a piece of wood — Jansen has a nice pine 4x4 — between a prop blade and the anti-ventilation plate to keep the prop from turning when you loosen the nut. Spin off the nut and lock washer and then slide the prop off the shaft. On our Merc, the composite Flo-Torque prop hub slides out of the prop first. On other brands splines in the prop hub mate to the shaft, and the prop will just pull off. Unless it's stuck on there due to corrosion. In which case you might need to smack it with a rubber mallet a few times. Behind the prop is the thrust washer. Slide this off next and pay close attention to which way it should go back on. The prop shaft is tapered, and the inside of the washer is tapered to match so it should only slide all the way down the shaft when it's on correctly. Jansen always wipes off the thrust washer and inspects it for wear. more