[TopSoil]

A boat that is keep inside when not being used has a longer life expectancy then one that sits outside in the weather all the time. Even that is not true , I had a row boat ( as a kid) that was outside all the time and it lasted as long as I had it and would assume the guy who has it today is still using it. If he has taken care of it. Taken out of the lake , scraped and repainted every year.
All wood and painted but the wood was cypress.
There is a friend of mine who has one like the one I had and it has to be 40 years old , if not older and is in as good shape as when he got it new. [links]

[nisilva9h2]

You are asking a question that is paramount to which is the best boat , there is no specific answer. [links]

[cindyr]

How you take care of it is the key.

[peter]

A lot of cheap fiberglass boats have been made with wooden core transoms. Because of poor design or poor materials or poor craftsmanship or abuse (or any combination) the glass structure gets a tiny leak, the wood gets wet and never gets a chance to dry, it rots. The fiberglass boat repair guys I know tell me the majority of the time it's either the owner putting on an outboard that is oversized for the intended design or the polyester resin just didn't hold up.

[Wofi]

The ones we make , with proper care should out last us , which ain't saying much. :lol: :lol: :lol: Especially when you think about the one they found in Egypt that was King Tut's barge , the dug it up and reassembled it , learning how they built them back in those days. He died in 1325 BC and they found the boat in 1922 AD

[Sofox]

The mechanics of the actual treatment will vary for each case depending upon location and construction. Where rot is deep into a large member it is advisable to drill a staggered series of overlapping holes approximately 1/4″ in diameter, 2″ apart, slanting downwards. This will expose the necessary end grain and provide reservoirs for the penetration. In areas where sections of rot contain extensive holes where wood fibers are actually missing, it is recommended to mix sawdust with GIT”-ROT and use it as a fill material after treating area. In areas such as transoms, stringers, and balsa core decking, drilling thru the fiberglass surface may be necessary. For transom repairs, you may drill vertically down through the transom, and then pour in “GIT”-ROT. For decking, drill thru the surface to treat the wood underneath. Holes left by drilling may be filled with a mixture of dry saw dust and “GIT”-ROT or a marine repair epoxy compound. [links]

[boombox]

Capillary action is the principal on which “GIT”-ROT works. Therefore, the most expedient way to apply the “GIT”-ROT is into the end grain of the wood wherever possible. To avoid trapping air in the middle of the rot always start at one end or on one surface and work progressively along. A considerable amount of patience is required during the actual penetration until complete saturation is achieved. This is determined when the reservoir holes fill and remain filled and the surface remains shiny. [links]

[BaliVillast]

Tap questionable areas with a hard instrument and listen for hollow sounding dead spots. Probe suspect areas with an ice pick or sharp knife. Check areas where fresh water is likely to accumulate. Particularly check the following: Spar checks, hatches, deck seams, transom, companion slides, checks in planking, toe rails, exposed end grain, stem, ribs, and stringers.
Amount required: For complete saturation and ultimate strength, in average type rot, it will require a volume of “GIT”-ROT approximately equal to half the volume of the rotted wood.

[Enky1974]

The optimum temperature for applying “GIT”-ROT is between 50° and 70°F (10° and 21°C). Only mix small batches (no more than 4 oz.) since the larger the quantity the greater the reaction and the faster the cure. After adding 1 part “B” to 3 parts of “A”, shake vigorously for at least one (1) full minute (TIP: use a watch while shaking the bottle.) Once the two parts have been thoroughly mixed, a thermal reaction will begin to occur. Penetration is best immediately after mixing. When working in temperatures over 70°F (21°C), chill “GIT”-ROT overnight. At 70°F, properly applied “GIT”-ROT solidifies into a tough resilient mass overnight. Allow one week for ultimate strength. Cold temperatures will slow the cure. When painting, check compatibility with paints.

[maxinedougherty]

“GIT”-ROT will eventually cure in damp wood. However, “GIT”-ROT will not displace water. So wet wood cannot be fully saturated. Any reduction in the amount of “GIT”-ROT simply reduces ultimate strength. Dry the affected area as much as possible. Soaking with acetone will assist drying; however, be cautious of fire hazard. CAUTION: Reaction between part A and B will produce heat. Do not use in high temperatures. Avoid all external additional heat sources.

[ElectricGoat]

You may think this title a little harsh but given the amount of rotten balsa I see through my surveys I think it is warranted. Many fine boats have been built with balsa core and many 30 year old balsa cored hulls are still sound today but many are not and it sometimes takes a very experienced eye to tell the difference.

[TTBit]

First�.. If water is getting into the core so is oxygen, that's why it's called H 2 O. It gets there not only by permeation at a molecular level but through improperly fitted throughulls, Trim tab mounting screws, transom mounted transducers, screws through the inner FRP in the bilges from the many items fastened to the inner hull and often right through resin starved, poorly applied chopped FRP on the hull interior. more

[HZPyR8eVk]

Second..� . Even though the water will contain oxygen, wood will rot without it due to the presence of anaerobic bacteria. Much like a compost heap, the real decay occurs deep in the pile where aerobic (oxygen requiring bacteria) cannot survive but where an anaerobic bacterium thrives. Do a google on "anaerobic, balsa, decay" just for fun. more

[distant]

I'm not a professional surveyor, so I don't have a moisture meter. The first thing I do is to look for any structural damage such as dings that go deeper than the gel coat. Then I look for screws in the transom such as transducer mounts. I take out the screws and look to see if any water runs out. Replace the screws using 5200 to keep them waterproof. Finally, I take a ball hammer and tap the outside of the transom fairly firmly about every 4" interval. I listen for any change in the sound. A wet spot in the transom usually goes from a sharp tap to a more of a dull thud. A really bad spot sounds hollow.

[valam]

The"stand on the motor and look for flex" is a good thing to do. more

[harrison801]

I will also stand on the anti-ventilation plate of the outboard motors and try to jump up and down looking for any flex in the transom. more