happyrock
20.06.2021 2:42:32
Another way to prevent getting this page in the future is to use Privacy Pass. You may need to download version 2.0 now from the Chrome Web Store.
See full version: One more step
Another way to prevent getting this page in the future is to use Privacy Pass. You may need to download version 2.0 now from the Chrome Web Store.
If you are at an office or shared network, you can ask the network administrator to run a scan across the network looking for misconfigured or infected devices. [links]
If you are on a personal connection, like at home, you can run an anti-virus scan on your device to make sure it is not infected with malware. here
Completing the CAPTCHA proves you are a human and gives you temporary access to the web property. [links]
Cloudflare Ray ID: 6875a4f31ffb163a • Your IP : 46.32.66.208 • Performance & security by Cloudflare here
Most folks here like US Composites. Their 8oz cloth costs $5.15 a yard, and you could get by with 4 oz, which is $5.90 a yard. Mat is $3.40 a yard from them. They're also cheaper than almost anywhere for epoxy, and quite good for poly, too.
I too have only read that you only need to resin the bottom and sides. What gives here? more
It all depends on how long you want it to last. [links]
You don't need many layers for strength unless you're using unusually thin plywood or something. the glass is just there to resist abrasion.
To get flooring in top shape, you’ll want to ensure that fiberglass is applied correctly.
Fiberglass is capable of producing extremely smooth flooring. For most, this is better than the utilitarian look of an aluminum floor. It also helps create a simple, modern look to your boat that people, especially your passengers, won’t be able to help but admire.
Fiberglassing starts by removing any damaged section of the boat’s floor. You’ll want to take note of any loose flooring and items as you clear out furniture and clean the living space. Get rid of items that no longer serve a purpose, like old and damaged plywood and other outdated decorations and structures, in preparation for your new floors. At this point, you’ll also want to clear out your boat’s center console and get the cables out of the way. If it’s tough for you to remember which part goes where, write down all the things you’ve disconnected so that it’s easier for you to reconnect them once everything is done. Keep in mind that this project takes time and is not likely to be done in an hour.
Foaming the hull
If you wish to foam the hull using a totally water proof method. so the foam will not ever get wet or water logged. read this link.
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=234392 go to page 167. post 4158 more
Take one of the cut out pieces of deck you kept. re insert it back into the hole saw (with out the drill bit in the saw) and using 40 grit sticky back sand paper. stick the sand paper to the wood in the hole saw, re insert it into the drill . and sand the foam till you get to the depth of the deck. quickly check your work by placing a cut out back in the hole. a little too low is ok. high is not. make sure its flush with the deck. Do this to all the holes. here
For proper tabbing, use 1708 bi axe. cut several strips 8 inches wide. (you may also choose to use double tabbing by cutting another strip 12 inches wide and double tab the hull)
when you cut the 1708. cut it going with the weave of the fabric. not across it. this will give you a frayed top edge that is just a real pain in the azz !
Cut enough strips to go all the way around the perimeter of the deck.
(usually you will have enough scraps from cutting the stringer glass to do this) more
Wet out the whole top deck, front to back. saturate the wood. wet it out good, use lots of resin. as before. let it get almost cured. tacky, but not hard. (make sure you test the resin at the front part of the deck. forget about the back part . you started wetting out at the front. so that is where you will start glassing. the back will be semi cured by the time you get there). [links]