See full version: What Is A Bilge Blower On A Boat & What It’s Used For
If it is not getting power, then you will want to check the fuse or breaker to it. Then as long as that is good. You can test the switch and then the wiring. It will be quick and easy to just follow the power from the fuse or breaker towards the blower. here
In-line bilge blowers are much more cost-effective and draw less power from your battery to function. In most cases, installing an adequately sized in-line bilge blower is your best bet. [links]
Bilge blowers can be quite noisy during operation, especially when your boat is idling. The constant noise from the motor can disrupt communication between passengers on the boat. [links]
Talk to other boaters and you will likely find out that many owners don't know the first thing about the water pump, let alone how to tell when they have a bad outboard water pump! Yet, this vital.
Ordinary bilge blowers are not built to operate continuously. So you can burn them out! However, you should run them for at least four minutes to ventilate the bilge before starting the engine. This will rid the bilge of any gas buildup that might be present in the bilge.
More often than not I see intakes and output connected to the same plenum which is a surefire way of re-circulating vapours rather than ventilating your engine compartment.
While this issue is critical on gasoline fueled boats, CO from diesel can also be an issue. Diesel does produce much less CO than gasoline but you must remember that CO poisoning is cumulative and will build up over hours or days and may take up to two weeks to leave your bloodstream. CO from a diesel is unlikely to kill you but the cumulative effect on a long trip can make you ill. For more on CO take a look at Carbon Monoxide Poisoning. more
3. All powered exhaust ducts should exit on the same side of the boat with fresh air intakes on the opposite side. Neither intakes nor outputs should be on the stern of boats with accomodation spaces.
If intakes and outputs are on the same side you may end up re-circulating the same gasoline vapours. Many boats are produced with plenums/louvers on each side then intake and outputs connected to the same plenum on one side . sheer laziness on the production floor.
This is so simple and so inexpensive to do right that I find it hard to believe so many boat builders still get it wrong. I am not talking about older boats here. Check out the new models in the showroom and you'll be hard pressed to find one done right. Is your family worth $20.00 worth of flexible duct work from your local hardware store ? more
Note : Gasoline fumes are heavier than air and will collect in the bilge . CO is near buoyancy neutral and will drift with the air. more
Can you fill your boat at a gas station?
Secondly, how are PWC fuel tanks designed for safety? They are designed with an expansion area. Even when the tank is full, there is still room for the fuel to expand (due to temperature change). Their extreme flammability.
All portable fuel tanks must be filled off of the boat. Once filled, store portable fuel tanks onboard in a well-ventilated area away from the engine and electrical equipment.
If the tank is overfilled, the fuel may expand and spill into the water. After fueling, open the door of the engine compartment and sniff to check for any evidence of gas fumes. Do this before starting the engine. If you do smell gas fumes, determine the source and make repairs immediately. [links]
One may also ask, where should portable gas tanks be filled? [links]
At the gas dock or the gas station, here are some tricks to keeping fuel in the tank and out of the water. There's really only one good way to fill up a portable tank – and that's to place the tank on the ground. It's also recommended that the fuel nozzle touch the can as you're pumping.
Boats must have a ventilation system that is adequate for the size space the system is used for. Larger boats with larger compartments must have more ventilation--the figure is 15 square inches of opening for each cubic foot of compartment. For most boats that works out to having two inlets and exhausts, with each vent having ducting from 3 inch diameter hose for smaller boats to 5 inch hose for larger boats.
To legally operate your vessel, both the Coast Guard and the states require you to carry certain equipment aboard your boat. These requirements are generally based upon the length of your boat, but a recent trend has been to have requirements based upon the time of year that you operate your vessel, or how far from shore you might operate your vessel. For example, boats 16 feet in length and over must have the at least:
Ventilation systems must have two parts--an air inlet, and a separate air outlet. Both the inlet and the outlet must have ducts--which are tubes or hoses that extend down into the boat. Ducting for the exhaust must be located in the lower third of the hull--but above any bilge water. Ducting should be routed away from any heat sources, should not be "kinked", and should be inspected regularly for cracks or debris. (Birds like to make nests in ducts.) Intakes are usually pointed forward, exhausts usually face aft.
Flame arrestors no longer require Coast Guard approval; the USCG now accepts flame arrestors complying with Underwriters Laboratories Standard 1111 or Society of Automotive Engineers J1928. When in use flame arrestors must be secured to the air intake of the carburetor with an airtight connection. Elements must be clean, and grids must be tight enough to prevent flames passing through. Cleaning with soap and water is the best way to maintain its effectiveness. [links]