ColdHardMetal
01.06.2021 21:35:35
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Several months have passed and we’ve completed the Raylar install and testing. Sorry it’s taken so long. Just too much work and not enough time. As this article is directed at results, I’ll save the details of the install for another time. The instructions were thorough and it went together without a hitch. Now it’s back to the dyno to see what we accomplished. The one caveat to the project is that we sent the PCM to Whipple for their stage 2 programming. They tweak the fuel mixture, raise the rev limiter and adjust the spark timing to be much more aggressive. This requires a 120 degree thermostat and 91 octane fuel.
OK, let’s make some horsepower! Off come the cast iron Mercruiser exhaust manifolds(earlier years have aluminum manifolds). We have a brand new set of polished Dana Marine exhaust manifolds with the Vortex IV risers. Talk about a nice kit! Everything was neatly labeled and went on without a hitch. Total install time was less than 2 hours. We had ordered these with the optional 02 sensor blocks so we could run our dyno’s oxygen sensor. From testing done by Dana Marine and Raylar, I was expecting the engine to run a bit lean requiring a fuel pressure adjustment, but decided not to touch it to begin with. Again we made several pulls. The best of which netted a peak HP reading of 408.7 at 5000 RPM. The A/F ratio was right around 13.6:1 which is where Larry said the 496 made best power, so we didn’t touch it. We’ll fine tune it after the Raylar kit. That is a 21 HP increase at peak RPM. I was expecting more based on advertised claims*.
Well, the engine’s out and on the dyno stand with the Dana exhaust in place. One question that comes to mind. On the Nordic installation the exhaust uses an S pipe, so the exhaust makes 2 almost 90 degree turns before exiting the boat. Could this be costing us some horsepower? Easy enough to prove. We pulled the complete exhaust system out of the boat and set it up on the dyno. We made a couple of pulls with a resultant 454 HP. here
The Nordic is equipped with dual gas tanks. This made it handy to test one myth that is commonly questioned. Will I gain any power by running premium fuel? We filled one tank with 87 octane the other with 93. Peak HP came in at 387.3. That is ½ of a HP less than with 93 octane. Studying the dyno sheets shows the 87 test to be within 1-2 HP of the 93 octane across the board, which falls within the acceptable tolerance of repeatability. I think we can safely say there was no difference between the 2 type fuels on this engine.
*Dyno tests performed by Dana Marine were with wet exhaust manifolds, but the water was collected and not mixed into the exhaust gasses as they are in a marine application. This may well account for the higher hp increases they were able to achieve during dyno testing as opposed to “in the boat” data. more
Our first order of business was to get some baseline numbers on the boat. We headed to our local lake, GPS in hand. Weather conditions were 65 degrees, flat water and approximately 900 ft. elevation. We made 5 different runs, with 2 different drivers. The slowest speed was 62.6, fastest 63.5. Average RPM was 4920 on the smartcraft digital tach. Let me interject at this point the Heat really does not like glass smooth water. I’ve personally driven this boat a couple of MPH faster in more chop. Nevertheless, those were the conditions presented to us, now we have our baseline. Back to the shop for a dyno pull. We hook up our Land & Sea 13” Siamese-rotor prop shaft dyno with automatic load valve and DynoMax 2000 data acquisition software on the lap top. We made a total of 4 pulls all within a couple of HP of each other. Final prop shaft HP was 387.8 at 5000 RPM, using SAE Standard correction method.
Measuring power and torque with an engine installed in a vehicle is done with a chassis dynamometer. This is where the second set of numbers, wheel horsepower and torque, come from. Wheel, in the term “wheel horsepower and torque”, comes from the fact that they are values measured at the wheels of a vehicle. In the automotive aftermarket world, HP and Torque gains from tuning and upgrade parts are usually measured with chassis dyno testing. A chassis dyno test requires the entire vehicle to be strapped down on top of “rollers” so that the wheels spin the rollers as though the vehicle is driving. There are a few different types of chassis dynos. Dynojet dynos feature large and very heavy rollers while others such as Mustang and Dyno Dynamics are load based dynos that have small rollers. Dynapack, another common load type chassis dyno is unique in that, instead of rollers, the dyno modules are bolted directly to the wheel hubs.
Weistec Engineering has a Dynojet 424xLC Linx dyno. It is a linked 4WD dyno with the load control eddy current module.
In most cases the truth is nothing is wrong if a dyno shows that the vehicle is making a lower number than what is rated by the manufacturer or if your dyno numbers are significantly different than a similar vehicle tested on a different dyno. Drivetrain losses are a natural and unavoidable aspect of automobiles. Over time, with use of lighter materials and more efficient transmission/drivetrain components drivetrain losses have been improved to the point at which they currently are. For a long time, Dynojet has been the industry standard in measuring power at the wheels. Certain patterns became apparent with the Dynojet dynos which led to the common 15% (2WD) and 25% (AWD) drivetrain loss rules. These rules are usually applied to manual transmission vehicles as automatic transmission vehicles are prone to more losses because of torque converters and more complex internal components. The rules, however, are not absolute or 100% accurate. Transmission type, wheel and tire size, driveshaft weight, brake rotors, etc. all influence the drivetrain losses. It is best to understand that the common rules are purely for estimates and that the best use of dyno testing is to measure before and after results on a specific vehicle on the same dyno. [links]
If you can crank the engine but it won't start, go HERE.
Key Switches go bad. It's a moving part and water can get down into the switch. The Mercruiser Key Switch has three terminals on the back. One is a large Red wire which is the main positive feed. Another wire will be Purple which is "ignition". This feeds the gauges and keeps the engine running. The third lead is Yellow/Red and it is what activates the starter slave solenoid to crank the engine. more
Your engine has red circut breaker button. It's usually mounted on the same bracket where the harness plug is located or where the starter slave solenoid is mounted. Push in the red breaker button really hard. It's a stiff breaker so push hard. The breaker can pop out if the harness is shorted or overloaded. A bad alternater can also cause a breaker to pop out. You might have to locate the short before using the engine.