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Your bonding system, if your through hulls are bonded, will also be connected to your negative battery bus bar. This gives a quick and easy route to ground for any stray current, rather than posing a danger to any humans on board who might touch those through hulls. There is also an increasing move towards high-strength plastic through hulls, which obviously negate the need for any type of bonding at all.
If this is a seacock, it could sink your boat. Electrically connect a less noble metal like zinc, and this becomes the anode, protecting the other metals from corrosion. In brackish water, the Baltic for example, you will need a more reactive metal, such as magnesium, to provide proper protection.
There is mixed opinion as to whether every through-hull fitting needs bonding; the bonded object needs to be fairly close to the protecting anode, and there is a risk it could introduce corrosion from stray current where there was little risk before. The decision is one of personal preference. [links]
Galvanic corrosion is a phenomenon that affects the majority of boats. If you have two dissimilar metals, such as stainless steel and bronze, the water will act as an electrolyte and the less noble of the two metals, the bronze, becomes an anode and will begin to corrode.
Anodes only offer protection to metal they are electrically connected to. This means either in direct physical contact, or connected by a wire inside the boat. Use a multimeter in continuity mode to check bonded objects, such as the gearbox, have a proper electrical connection to the hull anode studs.
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They have advised The Fit Out Pontoon that anodes are only really effective over a certain area. A rule of thumb is they are effective in all directions for about 7 times their length. A more acceptably easy way to gauge this is to place anodes along the sides of the boat centered every 4 to 5 m.
Two plates or rods of different metals are placed in a conducting liquid. The rods are known as electrodes and the liquid is known as the electrolyte. If the two rods of dissimilar metal are in direct electrical contact a simple battery is formed and a small DC voltage drives a current from one electrode to the other via the electrolyte. here
Therefore in this example the manufacturers recommended weight of magnesium anodes would be 14kg to 20kg.
This process of generating voltage which drives the current (amps), results in electrons being lost from the metal atoms in one of the electrodes. This loss of electrons produces electrically charged particles called ions which dissolve into the electrolyte. Very simply, they travel from one rod to the other through the liquid. The top & bottom of it is that one of the rods or plates looses material in the form of ions, known as the anode, the other rod gains material, known as the cathode, and which metal looses the material depends upon how noble it is.
i think the "dummies guide would say replace em when they are half gone.. and keep the crud off em too so as they can do their job..<br /><br />i also read somewhere that if u have a little aluminum boat.. all linked up shore-power wise and moored next to some big steel hulled boats for example.. your little boat becomes the sacrificial anode for the whole bunch of em.. he he <br /><br />trog100
Re: When do you replace your anodes? Zinc or Aluminum? here
I replace zinc anodes every season. I figure it is better to invest in zink anodes then into a new outdrive. I would say go with zink anodes. I have not used aluminum anodes as I think it makes no sence, since your drives are aluminum casting. "Sacraficial anode" serves the purpose of sacrafising itself to the electrical currant that is common to boat docking areas where shore power is almost on all boats. <br />I would change every season only because I keep boat in the water for the season. If you trailer your boat I would say replace it when you see zink starts falling apart.
A sacrificial anode can be made of any number of alloys and alloy compositions, the word 'zinc' is a commonly used generic term term for all anodes, it doesn't always mean that they are made of zinc.<br /><br />Use whatever the leg manufacturer recommends, that can change depending on 'warm or cold water', 'salt or fresh' and 'alloy hull or glass'. Stainless steel props can affect your choice also.<br /><br />For example, magnesium anodes are common for the type of hull I have and the area I boat in.<br /><br />Half worn is a rough guide, the smaller they get, the less surface area to sacrifice. Keeping them clean also increases the sacrificial area.<br /><br />Aldo.