[JenniferLee]

Unknown Compatibility* of Existing Antifoulant:
Power wash (pressure wash) to remove any loose paint, dirt, grease, or any other surface contaminants.
Scuff sand with 80 grit sandpaper, or scuff with a 3M Scotch-Brite® 7447 pad scrubbing thoroughly. Remove all residue and let dry.
Apply 1 coat of Bottom Paint Primer , sHAWKocon or 1283 Island Primer (see respective technical data sheet)
Apply minimum of two coats of antifoulant . Allow 3 to 6 hours between coats and a minimum overnight dry. See the specific Technical Data Sheet for antifoulant being used. Some antifoulants may require more than 2 coats.

[riX]

Known Compatibility of Existing Bottom Paint:
Power wash (pressure wash) to remove any loose paint, dirt, grease, or any other surface contaminants.
Scuff sand with 80 grit sandpaper, or scuff with a 3M Scotch-Brite® 7447 pad scrubbing thoroughly. Remove all residue and let dry.
Apply minimum of two coats of antifoulant. Allow 3 to 6 hours between coats and a minimum overnight dry. See the specific Technical Data Sheet for antifoulant being used. Some antifoulants may require more than 2 coats.

[pavelo]

Bottom Painting is not very technical, but you must have a clean surface to insure good adhesion.

[Cchild07]

Refer to the Sea Hawk Compatibility Chart to determine if your existing coating is compatible with Sea Hawk antifoulant paint choice. To insure that your bottom paint adheres to your existing coating, it is important to have a clean prepared surface and an existing coating that is in good condition. [links]

[phoebebright]

Poor Condition of Existing Antifoulant:
If previous coating is cracking, flaking or peeling then strip antifoulant with Marine Paint Stripper , or by sanding or commercial blast. Refer to Bare Fiberglass Application Guidelines for new antifoulant application. more

[43554]

more

[aurelian]

Get the yard manager to move the stands as soon as the rest of the hull is dry (never move stands yourself!), and put rags or sheet plastic on the pads to protect your new paint. Prep the bare spots and apply the appropriate number of coats. Save a little paint to slap on the areas on the bottom of the keel you can't get to until the boat is lifted. [links]

[kiba]

Many boatyards now prohibit normal power sanding because of the dust it generates. The solution is a shop-vac and a random-orbit sander with a vacuum hose connection. If you don't want to buy a new sander, slip a length of plastic hose over the dust bag mount on your old palm sander and tape the other end into the shop-vac hose. Either rig will capture most of the toxic dust sanding generates, but not all of it. Be sure to wear a tight-fitting respirator — not a paper mask — while sanding. Also wear earplugs to shut out the din of the sander and the vac. You'll save your hearing and find the work much less tiring. more

[bph2treat]

Remember that the adhesion of the new paint is only as good as that of the paint under it, so watch for signs of adhesion failure. Anywhere the old paint is flaking or lifting, worry exposed edges with a knife or small chisel. If the paint zips off, the bottom needs to be stripped.

[dabbad]

Using a 2-inch hook scraper is the stripping method least injurious to both you and the planet, and this is often the easiest method as well. If you decide to use a chemical stripper, be sure it is one formulated for fiberglass; regular strippers will attack the gelcoat.

[Kiv]

You can paint the prop if you like, but copper-based paint won't stay on a bronze prop (nor bronze rudders and struts) for long. Prop paints are available, but demanding prep — up to four prime coats — discourages their use. A heavy coat of wax on the prop will keep it clean for a time. [links]

[Koyama743]

If the boatyard has a paint shaker, run it for at least 5 minutes to get the copper and the pigment evenly distributed throughout the paint. A drill-powered mixing paddle can also do a good job. In the absence of a either, pour half the paint into a mixing bucket so you can mix the remaining half vigorously without sloshing paint onto the ground. Keep dredging up the copper off the bottom of the can until the bottom feels clean to the touch of your paddle. Slowly stir in what you poured off until the paint is uniform in color and consistency. If the paint has been on the shelf awhile, getting it mixed thoroughly can take 10 or 15 minutes, but don't skimp; if the copper isn't evenly distributed, some areas of your hull won't be protected. more

[jimbobway]

Simple No Sand System ** Good Paint Option

[Cablesaurus]

Sanding System** Better Paint Option

[TORNS]

The following steps should be taken to insure good adhesion of bottom paint to a fiberglass or gelcoated hull.

[bittard]

Premium Blister Protection and Adhesion System ** Best Paint Option

[Timothy]

Note: Do NOT use a copper based paint on metal running gear and parts. You should use a metal free bottom paint such as Sea Hawk Outdrive Paint , priming it with Tuff Stuff first. here

[jago25_98]

[links]

[stone]

Ad Luxury Cobalt Boats in Lake Geneva WI. Do this before applying the anti-fouling paint for the fiberglass boat. Sand down the boatOptional Apply second coat of antifouling paint.

[detramartin112]

Remove pontoon boat from water. How to Paint the Bottom of Your Fiberglass Boat – DIY – YouTube. From waterline to keel. here

[rjebro]

8142013 Learn some more cool tips and tricks for bottom painting your boat from shipwright Louis Sauzedde. Once thats done you just need to apply 2-4 coats of antifouling paint to the bottom. 8252020 At A GlanceHow to Paint the Bottom of a Pontoon Boat. more