claw
21.05.2021 7:47:47
To provide some extra structural integrity, we cut blocking from 2-by-8 material and fastened the blocks between the center joists of the dock that would not be bridged by the flotation devices. more
See full version: Build Your Own Swimming Dock
To provide some extra structural integrity, we cut blocking from 2-by-8 material and fastened the blocks between the center joists of the dock that would not be bridged by the flotation devices. more
We began construction on the relatively flat driveway to keep the rim-joist frame as square and level as possible.
Like the rim joists, the deck joists were installed with a combination of lag bolts, nuts, washers and galvanized plates. The plates include an L-bracket to fasten the joists to the rim lumber, as well as two smaller plates that sandwich the joists to the bracket. The hardware provides a solid and secure connection that resists tension and twisting within the dock frame. more
With all the joists assembled, the dock had accumulated a great deal of weight. At this point our team of five Extreme How-To staff members carried the completed dock frame even closer to the lake, where we attached the six flotation devices to the joists. here
Any swim platform requires a lot of weight to hold it from drifting, but a mortar-filled 20-litre bucket should do the trick on quiet lakes. Set an eyebolt studded with nuts and washers into the mortar when soft, then let it cure for a few days before putting the anchor to use.
Aside from a hefty anchor, you need chain. Less than 24 hours after I first set this raft afloat for the first time, the 5/8’’ nylon anchor rope came untied from the mortar filled bucket at the bottom of the lake, setting the raft adrift. Now I know that a chain is essential, not so much for reasons of strength, but because the threaded links that secure it to the raft and anchor won’t come undone. Rope does! When shopping for chain, get enough to accommodate the maximum water depth plus the maximum swell height plus six feet. Chain with 3/16”-thick links make sense.
Even with the bottom strapping in place, you need to bind the swim platform together so it’ll last. Regular pounding by waves and wind is hard on any floating structure, but it’s especially challenging when there’s an anchor chain involved. You can’t just bolt a piece of chain to the side of the raft and expect it to hold. I found that a couple of 1/2’’diameter plated-steel threaded rods coupled together proved ideal for holding the raft frame tight, and provided a place to bolt an anchor chain. Drill and install the tie rod in the middle of the raft along the bottom edge, just below the foam. The instruction video shows what I mean. here
The first year our swim platform was afloat, it didn’t have a ladder because I wanted to keep the design simple. But complaints from more senior patrons of the swim platform finally led to a salvaged stainless-steel pool ladder added to the side. As I discovered, installing a ladder solidly isn’t as simple as it seems: you need to support both the top and bottom ends securely. In the end I locked the top ends of the ladder into holes bored into a piece of Trex, then used U-bolts to secure the bottom end of the ladder to another piece of Trex. These top and bottom pieces were lag-bolted to the raft’s side and deck, creating a rock-solid installation. The whole ladder with its Trex pieces comes off when it’s time to pull the raft in for the winter. I could have left the wood frame bare, but I opted for a proven outdoor finish. After sanding the outside faces of the frame with an 80-grit abrasive, I applied two coats of Sikkens Cetol 1 in the dark oak colour. It looks great and matches the Trex perfectly.
My oldest son, Robert, notching pieces for making the swimming raft. Getting kids involved in building is a big part of helping them really enjoy this project. here
WANT TO BUILD A SWIM PLATFORM? This is the place to get your free plans and instructions. At first you might think I designed and built this swimming raft for my kids, but that’s not entirely true. We live within walking distance of a small lake on (not around) our island home where the raft is anchored. When it’s hot enough to make the cicadas sing, plunging off the side of this swim platform brings back childhood memories and cool refreshment all at the same time.
Use 3/8″ steel chain instead of rope. It won’t deteriorate anytime soon, plus it will add some useful weight. As for the anchors, you’ll need some seriously heavy ones: Each submerged anchor loses about one-third of its weight in the water. Instead of using concrete blocks, make your own. Lay some polyethylene sheeting down on a flat surface, get some used 14″ tires and fill them (the tire insides and the centres) with concrete. While the concrete is still wet, insert steel hooks into it to attach the chains. Make a bend in the shaft of each hook before inserting it, so it can’t be pulled out once the concrete dries. The resulting anchors should weigh about 115 kilograms each, but because they’re tires, they can easily be moved via tilting and rolling. [links]
If you know your raft’s approximate weight, you’ll know how many of these anchors you have to make – probably no more than four, with one for each corner. Be sure to cross-chain them: Criss-cross each pair of chains so that each corner is linked to the anchor under the adjacent corner. The chains should run at about 45° angles to the raft. If your raft still has a case of wanderlust, you can always add more anchors at each corner. more
1 4×4 cedar post for the corners [links]
Materials List for Mrs. Jackson’s 8’x8′ Floating raft: more
Mrs. Jackson has wanted a floating raft in her pond for years. Cottage Coach to the rescue!
8 8′ pieces of 2×6 cedar for frame and joists
4 foam-filled dock floats (we used 2’x4’x12″) more
Use 3/8″ steel chain instead of rope. It won’t deteriorate anytime soon, plus it will add some useful weight. As for the anchors, you’ll need some seriously heavy ones: Each submerged anchor loses about one-third of its weight in the water. Instead of using concrete blocks, make your own. Lay some polyethylene sheeting down on a flat surface, get some used 14″ tires and fill them (the tire insides and the centres) with concrete. While the concrete is still wet, insert steel hooks into it to attach the chains. Make a bend in the shaft of each hook before inserting it, so it can’t be pulled out once the concrete dries. The resulting anchors should weigh about 115 kilograms each, but because they’re tires, they can easily be moved via tilting and rolling. [links]
If you know your raft’s approximate weight, you’ll know how many of these anchors you have to make – probably no more than four, with one for each corner. Be sure to cross-chain them: Criss-cross each pair of chains so that each corner is linked to the anchor under the adjacent corner. The chains should run at about 45° angles to the raft. If your raft still has a case of wanderlust, you can always add more anchors at each corner. more