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27.05.2021 18:22:13
Re: Converting back-to-back seats into swivel Bucket Seats? here
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Re: Converting back-to-back seats into swivel Bucket Seats? here
Re: Converting back-to-back seats into swivel Bucket Seats?
No pics of the base, basically built an open box turned it upside down and glassed it to the deck. I'm using a back to back on the port side.
dorelse, I've seen your clip on youtube, it's what gave me the motivation to re-do my seating layout. I think you did a fabulous job on that boat. I too am planning on doing a deck repair/replace & switching to swivel buckets for driver & pass side. I'll check back to this thread to see if anyone else posts up pic's of their set up so I can get more ideas. more
Re: Converting back-to-back seats into swivel Bucket Seats?
So stapling vinyl, what can I say but you will build some serious grip strength doing this. I used a standard staple gun and stainless staples. The boat maker did not use stainless originally and they were rotted away. Here in Florida we cannot use non-stainless hardware so spend the $10 on the box of staples and rest easy they will last. So for stapling the vinyl just keep pulling, stapling, and tucking. I start with a single staple on opposing sides and work away from them.
Now that the top is sewn we need to add the boxing. Easy right? Wrong! This is the tricky part especially with the long boxing required for this motor box. I wish I too more pics here but I was pretty angry half the time I was doing this and forgot to take the pics. Start out with lots of double sided tape and start sewing, remember you are going through four layers of marine vinyl here so you may have to motivate the machine at times to get things started. When you start the boxing leave about six free inches dangling before you start sewing, you will need this when you have to sew the boxing closed at the end. keep sewing until you get about six or eight inches from the end. Once you are here near the end you have to sew a seam to close off the boxing. So pull it together and see where the two sides will meet and then sew that seam, once the seam is done finish the top seam on the cording. Caution when you are finally finishing the boxing you are probably at the samepoint you tucked the cording which means you can be sewing through up to eight layers of vinyl, coupled with the immediate transition from four layers to eight makes for tough feeding so be sure you lower the foot pressure on the machine and proceed slowly, by hand if necessary. [links]
For this project I went cheap with CSX exterior plywood and chose to paint it with exterior latex house paint, two coats. Since this wood is not structural to the boat and Southern Yellow Pine is about five times stronger than the fir used in Marine ply I should be fine. Now on to the instructions. more
So you have your vinyl done, lets go to the install now. [links]
We are gonna skip the seats since I was using a crummy camera for the seat construction. The seats are identical to the top of the motor box so consider it the same only smaller. more
Step one was to get a sewing machine so off to craigslist I went. $35 later I had a Singer 237 cast iron beast but in Italy in the early 60's and the thing has no problem chomping through eight layers of marine vinyl. So after about two weeks of sewing practice I figured I was ready to go so let's get started on this project!
Stainless steel hardware. Only 316 stainless steel fasteners and staples are used on our boat seats!
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I purchased a 05 Bayliner 175 and the seats need to be replaced. I purchased the Wise Bayliner Capri And Classic Back-To-Back Lounge Seats (see here). I'm wondering if any of you have replaced seats in a 175 or any other similar model. Specifically, I'm wanting info on how to do a full replacement including the base. The seats I purchased come with a base and I'd like to use it.
3. Remove seat tops from base on new setup and mark holes. Caulk old holes and pre drill new screw holes.
I'll attach pics. Any help would be greatly appreciated.