See full version: Repairing Fiberglass
CAREFUL, if you over catalyze your resin, it can become brittle or crack. BUT, if you do not use enough, your resin could have extremely long cure times, or not ever cure completely. ALSO, when adding catalyst to resin, it is important to stir while you are adding it, and for 60 seconds after it has been completely added. Scrape the walls and the bottom while stirring. here
Once the putty had set up, we were able to sand it down to a smooth surface.
I would liken it to smearing a wound with antibiotic ointment, then putting a bandaid on it. [links]
This is when the Magic Sculpt comes into play, we used it like you would use a wood filler on a hole in lumber. It is a 2-part clay that needs to be mixed thoroughly for a few minutes to work effectively. We made 2 long ropes, then twisted those together, then twisted that rope, and kept twisting until it was more like mixing and squishing.
Hope this is helpful, and I would love to hear back from the community on this.
How do I finish an SMC repair? Most SMC repairs will be painted, and only catalyzed type paint systems should be used.
Typically, the method employed to increase the surface area is taper or scarf sanding. This type of sanding means the area next to the damage is sanded away gradually, generally resulting in approximately ½—¾ of an inch of area per ply of composite laminate. Scarf sanding is usually done with a high—speed compressed—air power sander. Since most composite structures are fairly thin, this is a gentle process. The size of the taper, relative to the thickness of the laminate, is expressed as a ratio. Generally, the stronger or more critical the repair needs to be, the larger the ratio. Structural repairs usually require a gentler taper, with a ratio of 20:1 up to 100:1.
Both methods are acceptable for the majority of composite repairs, though most consider scarfing to be easier, and it’s generally considered better. Stepping results in abrupt edges and butt joints in each repaired ply. It is also hard to step sand without cutting through, potentially damaging the underlying plies.
These Plastic Rollers are straight across the width of the head and provide excellent air relief for nearly all applications.
After you’ve removed the damaged material, support the part so nothing is distorted during the repair process. Sometimes this is as simple as affixing a few strips of 2—inch wide masking tape, other times it is as elaborate as a custom-made clamping structure. Generally speaking, high—performance parts have tighter tolerances and will require a more precise support system. Once you’ve got the part supported, proceed with preparing the bonding surface. As mentioned above, this typically involves grinding or sanding a taper or steps in the material around the damage. This is the critical step for functional repairs, but it is also often overlooked or abused. Take your time and ensure your repair is performed correctly.
Professional work will always be the better option for reglazing than do-it-yourself, as the company can color-match the paint. more
It may require up to eight weeks for the liner to be fabricated. Total costs can easily run to $2,000 or more. But this is still less expensive than having a new bathtub installed.
The lowest cost solution is to repair and reglaze only the problem areas. For reglazing problems that stem from the servicing company, check your warranty. Some companies have five to seven year warranties that cover issues due to workmanship, peeling, or other failures of the new coating adhering to the original surface. more
Don't be surprised if the second refinishing has an even shorter life than the first coating. here
Lightly sand the entire tub with 80-grit sandpaper. Remove all dust with a tack cloth. [links]
Remove all of the old caulk with a utility knife. Try to avoid scratching the tub. Peel off the remaining caulk using a grout brush and wipe down the area with isopropyl alcohol. here
Remove as many metal fixtures as possible, as well as plugs or drain covers. You can cover the fixtures or mask them with painter's tape, but removing them altogether is best. here
There are many reasons that you may want to refinish a bathtub. Your tub may be old and worn, be an outdated color or no longer match your bathroom after renovating. While changing the color of your bathtub may seem like something that requires a professional, there are many paints that will adhere to fiberglass bathtubs that make it possible to do yourself. There are even kits available to make this project easy by providing all of the necessary chemicals.
Mask around the tub with painter's tape to protect the walls and floor from your paint. Be sure that the tub is completely dry before continuing. here