anarchy
12.05.2021 14:36:20
oh and by the way there is not just one path for the water to go the heads and block are an open cavity like say a tank so not just a hose or a pipe to follow i hope that helps you get what you need done more
See full version: How to get rid of the tap water from the engine block after flush
oh and by the way there is not just one path for the water to go the heads and block are an open cavity like say a tank so not just a hose or a pipe to follow i hope that helps you get what you need done more
i think it would mix no matter how you did it but to get most out i think i would hook a shop vac up to the lower hose and turn it on with the upper hose off i think it would dry it out after some time
I don't know about the shop vac thing, but never thought even for a reason to try it, BUT I agree totally with you statement above, straight anti-freeze and top it of with 50/50
Refer to adding coolant,i meant that i am going to add 50%(from the cooling system capacity)CONCENTRATE green coolant to the system and after that i will complete the rest with distilled water. This engine,unfortunately,doesn't have drain plugs. I didn't understand how the shop vac is going to dry 3+ litre of coolant? I also don't figure out why the tap water in the system will mixed with the distilled water and will not pushed out by them? If i pour the distilled water through the upper radiator hose(for example)the distilled water,supposed to flow through the thermostat(disconnected)through the cylinder head,the engine block,the water pump to the radiator bottom hose,doesn't it? It doesn't flow through the thermostat directly to the water pump and to the radiator bottom hose,while skipping the cylinder head and engine block passages,does it? So why the distilled water is mixing with the tap water rather than pushing it out?
After making a cooling system flush with tap water,there is a 50% of tap
water(and even more)that remains in the engine block.
I would like to have only distilled water in the system(before i will add 50%
concentrate green coolant)
My question is:if i pour a distilled water (about1-2 gallon) through the radiator
bottom hose(while thermostat is disconnected):
1)Will the distilled water push all the tap water from the block out of the
radiator's bottom outlet?
2)Or will the distilled water will be mixed with the tap water in the engine
block and will pushed out together from the system,as after pouring 2 gallon
of distilled water there will be,actually, a mixed distilled water+tap water in the
system?
Thanks in advance. more
Well if you do it this way, one & two gal. of distilled water probably wont flush all the tap water out, I would figure it would take a bit more, but then just adding 50/50 mix you would find that it would not be strong enough for winter. You would need a couple of quarts of straight anti-freeze. There are drain plugs in the water jacket you could pull, they are lower in the system, but normally there not easy to get to.
Easiest way is to disconnect the lower radiator hose at the radiator, and disconnect a heater hose from the engine. Avoid pulling a heater hose off at the heater core. It is too easy to cause a leak there. Once the old coolant is drained, run water from a garden hose into the heater hose for a minute or two, then into the fitting on the engine. Reconnect the radiator hose without the clamp, then do the same steps. Plug the heater hose or port with your finger to force the water to come up out of the radiator or reservoir. The engineers could not be bothered to put a radiator cap on a lot of their vehicles, so you have to modify the procedure a little. The point is to get water flowing out of the various places.
Once you have had water running out of as many places as possible, disconnect the radiator hose again to drain as much water out as possible. Run water into the reservoir to wash that out. If you have a radiator cap, install it and tighten it, then continue adding water to the reservoir. Eventually the siphoning action will pull most of the water out of the reservoir. more
Reconnect the lower radiator hose and clamp, then start to fill the engine with fresh antifreeze. Please don't waste your money of the "premixed" antifreeze. You are buying a half gallon of water, and you will not have the ability to adjust the mixture. There is at least a half gallon of water in the system that will not drain out. Start by adding one gallon of new antifreeze. Next, add one gallon of water. If necessary, add another half gallon of antifreeze, then another half gallon of water. Keep alternating until the system is full. When you see coolant start to come out of the heater hose port on the engine, reconnect that hose and clamp. Leaving it off up to this point lets the air come out so the system can be filled easier. V-8 engines usually do not need special bleeding procedures. If there is a bleeder screw on the thermostat housing, open that as you fill the system. When needed, some engines have a threaded plug or sensor near the thermostat that can be removed for bleeding the air out. here
An engine block flush is a relatively simple thing to achieve without having to visit a garage. Flushing out accumulated dirt and other forms of build-up from the cooling system will help your engine to run more smoothly for longer. For many cars, it may never be necessary to flush the engine block – it’s only vehicles that aren’t driven for an extended period or go a long time without oil changes that might need a full flush out.
The basic steps to flush a car engine block are: more
The exact process will differ from vehicle to vehicle, so consultation of your vehicle manual will be essential when it comes to performing a flush of the cooling system. A mechanic will be able to recommend if it’s actually necessary, so make sure you check with them before taking any action. here
Plug the tailpipe prior to washing your dirt bike! here
Flooding the engine means different things to different people. You can flood the engine by rolling the throttle prior to starting the motor - the most often used definition - or introducing just an incremental amount of water into the crankcase - the worst of the two "flooding" possibilities.
Turning the engine over with the bike upside down helps push any water out of the top end. Yes, eventually, water in the top end trickles down to the bottom end where the oil rests, however, that's what you want to avoid. Even a slight water bath on metal parts can eventually cause rust. Once you have turned the engine over a few times, flip the bike back over on two-wheels. Now all the oil and whatever water remains rests in the bottom end. Drain and add fresh oil, and change the filter too. [links]
Pull the spark plug (actually remove it) and turn the bike upside down so it rests on the handlebars and seat just like a pedal bike when you work on the tires or chain. Now kick the engine over. If you have an electric start this process just became a lot easier otherwise use your arm to kickstart (punchstart?) the engine. It helps having a friend nearby to assist in turning the bike upside down and steady the bike when you push on the kickstart. Don't worry, the bike won't start (no spark plug) when turning the engine over but do expect gas to leak out the vent hose. [links]
Any amount of water ruins the engine. Maybe not right away but water eventually rusts parts and leads to engine failure. The phrase "water and oil don't mix" isn't just a saying. Scientifically it's true the two substances don't mix. In many respects, a fully submerged bike makes for a better story and sometimes overall outcome because you know for sure and take the necessary countermeasures though that much water can ruin the electrical system and/or require a complete engine rebuild. Also, a submerged dirt bike probably occurs during riding which means a hot engine. Imagine the shock to internal parts once awash with cold water. more