See full version: Thread: Replacing a mooring cleat without any access to underneath the fiberglass
Cutting into the gelcoat and through the fiberglass, and even grinding around the cleat is not a job for someone who isn't real comfortable with that kind of construction. You could end up with a pretty nasty booger on a very pretty boat. Good luck and keep us posted.
An aft chrome 4.5� mooring cleat on my fiberglass pontoon boat (13� 2004 Escape Cruz - see photo link below) completely snapped off during recent extremely strong winds on the lake. All that�s left are the 4 chrome screws and a little bit of metal underneath each screw head. I haven�t yet attempted to unscrew these remnants from the fiberglass.
You can get inspection covers to fill the holes that you might have to cut in the hull to access the cleats, but they won't be very attractive. [links]
Once I remove the remnant screws, I am concerned that any locking nuts and/or backing plate will simply fall down into the hull. Ugh. Then, what. A few questions:
1) Has anyone encountered a similar inaccessibility problem and know a way to deal with it?
2) Does anyone know if typically on such boats a backing plate is firmly seated and already has threaded screw holes, so that all I�d have to do is unscrew the old screws and screw in new ones?
3) Google searching made me aware of marine �well nuts�, to install something in the blind. However, these apparently don�t use backing plates for strength of hold. Has anyone used �well nuts� to install something such as mooring cleats on a boat? If so, would they be strong enough to securely hold/moor the boat line to my dock and the cleat not be torn out from the boat during winds up to perhaps 30 to 40 MPH?
4) Any other suggestions?
If you have a wood screw type of thread on the existing screws you may be able to back them out and just run new ones down in the same holes. here
Welcome to the forum Songbill, that is a nice looking boat you have there.
You have the surface prepped. Now what?
Step 1: Pre cut 3 pieces of cloth to the appropriate dimension and soak each cloth in resin before setting in place. Rather than brushing, soaking the cloth will ensure the best adhesion. more
Helpful Tip: When drilling the holes, use a spur bit if available. This type of bit has cutters on its outside edge and makes for a cleaner entry and exit, without tearing at the fiberglass. [links]
Step 3: Set the backing block in place mat side up using a 2×4, or any other type of fixture that will hold the block tightly in place. Wait approximately 30 minutes then remove the 2×4, and liberally apply resin to the surface of the foam block and approximately 3 to 4 inches around the perimeter of the block. This is where you use the pieces of cloth that you’ve pre-cut. Wait until the fiberglass is tacky each time and individually apply the 3 pieces of cloth. After the third cloth has been set, wait about 24 hours for the resin to cure before installing the boat cleat. here
Helpful Tip: Avoid using plywood or open cell foam backing blocks. Plywood is subject to rot and the open cell foam has a low compression factor.
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Re: Screw right into the fiberglass/getcoat. [links]
The glass has a good amount of holding power IF you use the right size pilot drill for the screw size more
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The glass has a good amount of holding power IF you use the right size pilot drill for the screw size
Re: Screw right into the fiberglass/getcoat. [links]
Being new to boating, boat body material is a new media for me to play with. I'm preparing myself to install the mounting hardware for a bimini top and just wanted to make sure it is as straight fwd as it sounds/looks.
In general its a good idea to be sure what your drilling into there are cables and wires that are secured under most boats in that area more