See full version: How To Install Fish Finder And Transom Mount
Most boats now come equipped with at least one fuse block. Below you will see two fuse blocks. The main fuse block is left for important devices. The smaller ones like the one below can be used to hook up accessories with low draw like the fish finder. more
Important note: Do not connect the power terminals to the battery or fuse block until you are finished working on the wiring.
You must find the right fish finder for yourself which in itself can be a daunting task. Fortunately for you, we have a complete fish finder buying guide and reviews of the best units in the market currently. here
Now bring out the template provided with the binnacle mount for affixing it. Or else, you can just place the binnacle mount at the selected location and mark the point for drilling holes to screw it on. here
The next step is to set up the transducer in place. Transom mount is one of the cheapest options and usually accompanies every fish finder. This mounting does well only at lower speeds (less than 30 mph) and for vessels less than 30 feet. here
Once you have selected your location, the second question is that how to install it. Drill holes in the template for the mounting screws, cover the area, and screws in sealant before bolting the bracket into place. You have to feed the connecting wires into your boat before the installation of the transducer.
When working under the waterline, it’s essential to utilize a sealant that is an excellent option for the job. You can use a transom saver block on the contemporary, which can stick to your transom with a specific adhesive. Now, mount your transducer bracket to this block. On the spot, your bracket is mounted; all that’s left to do is attach the transducer to the frame and then link all of the wires. You don’t need to cut your transducer wire to size, as this could become the cause of problems with performance & outcome. Instead, pull all of the extra wire to either sit beside the display unit or in with your other electrical wires; you have to coil and tie, wrapping it very neatly into its place. [links]
Before starting, you should make a pre-install inspection. Focus your attention on this list of items; you might need them during the installation. If you don’t have these, go and buy them.
1. Fish Tape & Gloves:
A fish tape is a fantastic tool used while running a transducer & power cables from the head unit to the cranking battery. The fish tape is problematic, flat steel that is stretchable enough to be pushed and pulled down the wiring channel beneath the gunnels of most of the boats. The gloves are committed to shielding your hands & palms from fiberglass cuts. Both are essential for you.
2. Cordless Drill & Drill Bits:
An excellent drill with sharp bits will be used frequently during the installation process, like drilling your head unit mounting holes and mounting the transducer. It’d be best if you had a quick drill with you.
3. Masking Tape:
Put a masking tape over the locations you will be drilling holes into fiberglass. The masking tape heads off the gel coat from chipping and cracking when the drill bit bites into the surface of the hull.
4. Cable Ties & Cable Wraps:
You’ll be needed the number of cable ties to shield and clean up your install. It would be helpful if you had the hook and loop style cable wraps for making a clean & smooth-looking install.
5. Shrink Tubing/Electrical Tape:
Most people are interested in covering any wire splices with shrink tubing for a moisture-resistant connection. The Electrical tape acts just right but can be messy and doesn’t look as appropriate.
6. Heat Gun:
The heat gun will help you to shrink the tubing over the electrical connections. You have to be aware and not point the heat anywhere near the gel coat or the carpet. Boat carpet will melt quite quickly, and the gel coat can be discolored, so if you don’t have experience, don’t use it.
7. Inline Fuse Holder & Fuse Kit:
All fish detector devices must utilize an inline fuse to keep safe the unit from voltage and current spikes. Its blade style fuses work extraordinary, in either the ATO or small sizes. The user manual is needed for the required amperage of the fuse.
8. Wire Stripper/Crimper:
It is an essential hand tool to strip wires and crimp splice connections very quickly & easily.
9. Stainless Steel Hardware:
Before going fishing, you should purchase some stainless steel machine screws and stainless steel nylon locknuts. It is a tip, bring your mounts with you to easily pick out the right size for your mount.
10. Unit Mounts:
You might be required the accessory kit from the manufacturer if you are doing a flush mount. RAM has been the most famous mount style for a long time. If you go with RAM, make sure that you grasp one of the larger ball sizes; on the other hand, there will be chances of slipping and flopping under the unit’s weight.
10. Transom Saver Block:
These plastic blocks are mainly utilized on the transoms of aluminum boats. You can screw this block into the transom; it will enable you to move the transducer around as required to get the superb location & adjustment.
There are three main techniques for mounting a fish detector device to your console (by the steering wheel). Each method will work just right; it all depends upon the space on your boat & dash boat.
In-Dash:
Flush mounted fish finders look superb, but unfortunately, it doesn’t work on all sizes and all type of boats. Most of the bass boats don’t have extra space for anything over a 7-inch unit. This kind of install works efficiently on center console boats with large mounting surfaces or space.
Gimbal Mounted:
A gimbal bracket is the metal bracket along with adjustable knobs that comes with most of the fish detectors. This bracket ensures more easily mounted to remote locations on a boat dash console. Furthermore, this will permit you to mount the unit a little higher and watch the screen over the steering wheel. The 2nd choice is to mount the gimbal on top of your dash, like on a middle console, or gimbal inside the windshield on a v-hull. The most exciting thing about a gimbal-mounted fish detector is that how sturdy & durable it is.
RAM/Kong/3rd Party Mount:
If you require flexibility on the console-mounted unit, you will need to go with a third-party mount. So, you can mount a RAM or Kong mount from anywhere. The primary disadvantage to the RAM is the rubber balls that can easily slip under heavy. A Balzout or Kong mount will be more shielded than a RAM. [links]
There are different methods to mount your fish detector at the bow next to your trolling motor. Be attentive; the technique you select will come down to the available space you have upfront.
Flush Mount:
Few boats have a friendly wedge-shaped panel at the tip of the bow, making it a suitable place to drop in a flush-mounted fish detector device. If we talk about its disadvantage, it puts the unit at a fixed angle and far away from the reach of your eyes.
Gimbal Mount:
A gimbal mount at the bow upgrades the unit up to few inches, which makes it easier to watch. You are allowed to change the viewing angle, but once you fix the bracket, it’s not movable or changeable.
RAM/Kong/3rd Party Mount:
If you don’t have a recessed foot pedal, you will go with a third-party mount. RAM-109HU mount is best for the bow. By using this method, You can move the unit around in different positions. It also doesn’t take up much space. Kong mounts are perfect on the bow in case you can afford them.
Bridge Mount:
A bridge mount is a bracket that bridges over the upper side of the trolling motor pedal recess and mounts the unit on the top side. It is the best fish finder mounting choice.
* Push the fish tape fromthe cosole to the front and hook to your wires and pull them back to you. Once you get it near the front you may have to reach for the fish tape to pull it the rest of the way. [links]
Going to the front is the hardest because you only have a small area to work with once you get a few feet from the conole. If I remember right you want to keep the fish tape close to the top next to the rail.
Thats the easy part if your going all the way to the front Its a little harder.. [links]
*Remove the plate underneath the TM (where the TM plugs
* I strarted from the cosole and ran a fish tape to the back - taped my wires and pulled the back to the console (its easier to pull them than push them) [links]
* First reomve the screws that hold the shifter to the side should be about 4. more
After buying your fishfinder and removing it from its packaging, register it with the manufacturer’s website. But ensure they’ve got a valid email address that they will contact you through. Doing this will also enable you to activate your warranty so that if there’s a problem with the equipment, you’ll have an easy time reaching them.
To install your fish finder, follow the below procedure; here
You can also learn how to install a fish finder at the center console either in the dash. To mount the fish finder in the dash, you’ll require a bigger space which is hard to get in bass boats. You can also do a gimbal mount which is a metal bracket that has adjustable knobs. It can fit in smaller spaces on the dashboard, allowing you to fix the unit up in a place that you’ll see the screen over the steering wheel. A gimbal-mounted fish finder is strong, making it withstand the raging waters, but it’s in a fixed position.