[gridecon]

How much rust present in an engine's cylinder walls will determine how easy it is to remove the rust and whether the block will even be able to be used in a running motor. If there is simply surface rust that can be scrubbed off to clean metal, then the block can probably be used. If the rust has caused pitting, where there are pockmarks eaten into the metal, it may not be able to be used. There are a couple of reasons the block would not be usable. One is that machining the bores to the point where the pitting is no longer present may result in a bore that is too large for any available pistons. The other is that the amount of boring might be beyond the manufacturing tolerances and would be too close to the water jackets or even the outside of the block. more

[lach]

If there is more rust than steel wool will easily remove, the next step would be to use a flex hone, which is a round wheel with aluminum balls on it. This attaches to a drill and cleans the cylinders quite well at a microscopic level without damaging the cross-hatching that machine boring provides. here

[shiraroberts112]

The next step after flex honing is honing. This is similar to flex honing, but uses blades to remove more material. This method will get rid of rust, but it is easy to score the cylinder and ruin the cross-hatching, which can result in inconsistent compression and other problems once the engine is rebuilt and running. This is best left to the professionals unless you are experienced with this type of honing.

[markm]

If an engine is removed from a car and improperly stored, rust will often appear on the cylinder walls. The cylinder walls are the surfaces of the holes in the block that are bored out for the pistons. Obviously, this is a crucial area of a motor, since the pistons and rings slide up and down against this surface as the motor is running, usually at many thousands of RPMs. Not only must this surface be completely smooth and clean, but it must also be free of rough spots and pitting.

[lucky]

If there is more rust than steel wool will easily remove, the next step would be to use a flex hone, which is a round wheel with aluminum balls on it. This attaches to a drill and cleans the cylinders quite well at a microscopic level without damaging the cross-hatching that machine boring provides. here

[MrFlibble]

How much rust present in an engine's cylinder walls will determine how easy it is to remove the rust and whether the block will even be able to be used in a running motor. If there is simply surface rust that can be scrubbed off to clean metal, then the block can probably be used. If the rust has caused pitting, where there are pockmarks eaten into the metal, it may not be able to be used. There are a couple of reasons the block would not be usable. One is that machining the bores to the point where the pitting is no longer present may result in a bore that is too large for any available pistons. The other is that the amount of boring might be beyond the manufacturing tolerances and would be too close to the water jackets or even the outside of the block. [links]

[francc4iss96]

If an engine is removed from a car and improperly stored, rust will often appear on the cylinder walls. The cylinder walls are the surfaces of the holes in the block that are bored out for the pistons. Obviously, this is a crucial area of a motor, since the pistons and rings slide up and down against this surface as the motor is running, usually at many thousands of RPMs. Not only must this surface be completely smooth and clean, but it must also be free of rough spots and pitting. here

[playanaut]

The next step after flex honing is honing. This is similar to flex honing, but uses blades to remove more material. This method will get rid of rust, but it is easy to score the cylinder and ruin the cross-hatching, which can result in inconsistent compression and other problems once the engine is rebuilt and running. This is best left to the professionals unless you are experienced with this type of honing. [links]

[Cruzz]

If there is minimal rust in the cylinder walls, it can probably be removed with a fine steel wool and naval jelly, which is a chemical for rust removal. Simply apply the naval jelly to the steel wool and gently rub it up and down the cylinder walls until the rust is gone. Once the rust is gone, clean and preserve the cylinder walls with WD40 or a light coat of motor oil. [links]

[sehrgut]

I don't want to mess with a quick hone though. I am going to pull the engine, and probably just stick it in one of the sheds. I thought about just saying to hell with it, pick up some head gaskets and see it it's still a runner but too much crap is missing from not being taken apart correctly.
:-\ here

[Unthinkingbit]

Andrew
1972 Ford Gran Torino Sport and other FoCoMo problem children [links]

[cayblood]

Anyways. they left one head off the engine. for like a year. Now the bores on the right side of the block has surface rust.
I sprayed it down with wd40 after pulling the left head, to sort of keep a temp fix for the other bores that are clean yet.
Would the rings get wasted without making some attempt at cleaning? here

[marktaylor142]

The kid who had it, didn't know WTF he was doing. I am talking. reusing head gaskets, I mean they freaking spray painted the head gaskets and bolted another set of heads of another 351c. gee, wonder why it still leaked antifreeze?
: [links]

[kbelanger]

2020. year of getting screwed by a Narcissist and learning hard lessons into trusting the wrong people on a business venture.
2021. year of singing "99 problems but an asshole ain't one"
Moved cross country twice on a role of the dice. I left Nebraska and came back to Nebraska. [links]

[gaetaneelle24]

I’ll leave the ball in your court now, but hopefully what I’ve mentioned will give you something to consider. It certainly isn’t the end of the world, but if contamination is observed in the oil filter, then I become concerned about possible contamination of crankshaft, connecting rod and camshaft bearing surfaces. Any possible contamination of these areas could possibly lead to nasty things happening, and all would carry a very high price tag to repair or replace.

[rickyfoley32]

A: Steven, this subject should be of interest to many, especially those who are in a similar situation as you where a customer is considering buying a used aircraft. I commend your customer for requesting you do an annual inspection versus a pre-buy inspection because it provides a much better overall picture of the aircraft. With the cost of aircraft today, it’s a good investment. more

[43554]

From my experience, if the corrosion is just surface rust, then it is likely that continuing operation of the engine may heal the cylinders. Should this be the case in your situation, I’d suggest you change the oil and oil filter and fly the aircraft for 10 hours and inspect the filter again. [links]

[Natanael]

I have heard from a couple other pilots who stated that something like that happened to them. Their scenario was they had an oil sample done and the A&P advised them to fly it for 50 hours and let’s check it again. They say it cleared up. Keep in mind these guys flew often.

[altsa]

Q: I read some of the material you have posted and was very impressed. I have a question about finding rust in the barrels of the cylinders.

[woola20]

Here is the situation: A customer is looking to buy a Piper Lance II. It was asked that we do an annual instead of a pre-buy inspection. The engine is a reman from Lycoming with 224.1 hours since November 2012.