[nofuture]

If the trick above didn't get it loose, it's time to bring out the big guns, the torch. WARNING: If your cylinder head is aluminum, you must be VERY careful to only heat the steel bolt, and not the cylinder head! If the area is reasonably clear of flammable objects, and you have access to a good torch, a little heat will often loosen the grip of the rust enough to get it moving. Remember, the pick is your friend, always prepare the threads with the pick FIRST. I use an oxy-acetylene torch to quicly heat the bolt up to a nice cherry red color, then hand the torch to a helper and quickly put the wrench on the head of the bolt and gently try to turn it each way. Work it back and forth just like the WD technique, and as it cools off a bit, use the penetrant. Once you get it to move a little bit, you're home free. If you don't have access to oxy-acetylene, it can be done with a propane torch, but it's a lot trickier. The secret to this technique is that you are trying to heat ONLY the bolt or the nut, if you heat up both, it isn't as effective. You want to make one expand and break the rust bond. Once that bond is broken, the penetrant can get in between the threads and work it's magic. [links]

[wlisabethfitzgeraldv]

Two words come to mind in the battle against seized fasteners, lubrication and heat. Lubrication sounds pretty simple, and it is, but there are a couple of things to keep in mind: first, all the WD-40 in the world won't do much good if it can't get to the actual contact areas that are involved. That means that you don't just spray a ton of the stuff on the fastener and then grab the wrench. If you take a magnifying glass and look closely at the problem, you'll notice that the rust has grown up around the interface where the threads of the bolt meet the female threads. I like to take a very sharp pick, and scratch that bulge of rust away, remember, patience is a virtue. Work slowly and carefully, working your way around the entire circumference of the bolt, spraying a bit of the lube on the area as you go. Sometimes you can't get all the way around, just get as much as you can get to. Then give it a good spray and start over, you'll have missed a few spots, remember, PATIENCE. Get the point of that pick right into the little groove bertween the threads and work it back and forth. Give it another little squirt of the WD now and then. more

[Link2VoIP]

Then, with the box wrench or socket, try working the bolt back and forth a bit, that's right, try to tighten it. then work it backwards and forwards a few times, with a little squirt of the magic stuff now and then. Don't round off the head of the bolt, and DON'T use so much force you break the bolt. If you're lucky, it will start to move a bit, if so, you're home free, just keep working it back and forth and you'll notice it goes a bit further each time. A few more minutes, more WD,and you're done. Didn't that feel good? here

[Unthinkingbit]

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[otiffanipacey]

Every mechanic has had a few of these. There isn't any one single trick that will work on all of them, but there are some simple principles that will get you out of the situation if you just don't lose your patience. If you strain on the end of the wrench or socket handle and the bolt just doesn't budge, and you feel that if you pull just a little bit harder the damned thing is going to break, STOP. If you break it, you've just made your problem worse.

[happymoon]

If you get impatient and break the head off the bolt, one of two situations happens: either there is a bit of the bolt sticking out, or there isn't. If there IS enough left to grip with a pair of vise grips, proceed as above, using the vise grips instead of the wrench, remember, use that pick FIRST! If there isn't anything sticking out, things just got REALLY interesting.

[claw]

The Ford 300 cubic-inch in-line six cylinder engine was the largest "straight" six cylinder engine produced by Ford, and is found only in trucks. This engine uses a combination intake-exhaust manifold that must be removed as a unit. Over time, the manifold may suffer a crack, or the intake or exhaust gasket may develop a leak, requiring removal. The DIY mechanic should be able to remove and install the manifold unit in about four hours. here

[FatherMcGruder]

[morrisby25]

[Kay]

[qube]

[links]

[kaja]

Get a long - reach and sturdy Ball Joint splitter, and locate the "forks" either side of the head of the stud. The forks must be clear of the head. Tighten the bolt on the splitter, and put some metal between the actuating arm and the tip of the protruding stud. This ensures all the force is transmitted to the stud. Tighten the splitter bolt and within a few minutes, yes MINUTES, there will be a loud crack, and out from the flange will pop the offending stud !! Clean as a whistle.

[Xaxo]

Acetone and vegetable oil is superior to any store-bought oil of the same purpose (yes even kroil), as shown in lab experiments from Drexel University. here

[sarahalfred142]

Sometimes there is just too much material rusted off of the bolt for either of the above to work. Or one of the above techniques may round out the bolt before it comes out. In this case, the bolt needs to be destroyed so you can move on with life. Some options are:

[Leonassan]

Alternatively, you can buy hydraulic tools but they will probably snap the bolt leaving you with one more problem to solve. here

[ruenma7411]

I'm trying to disassemble the exhaust system on a 2000-2003 Nissan Maxima and I'm having trouble removing one last bolt. It's got a 14mm head and its just plain STUCK. I've tried soaking it overnight with PB Blaster, then the next morning I tried removing it with a 2ft long breaker bar + a 2ft extension. After making absolutely positive I was trying to turn it the proper direction, I braced myself by putting both feet on a framerail and pushing with all my strength. And then, my socket shattered into a billion pieces. Bolt: 1 Me:0.

[nickwit]

Given that the taper was short and not too shallow, I thought I'd try to press the other stud out, rather than drill it. Most other sites suggest using copious heat / bashing techniques to remove, but the following is THE BEST and QUICKEST METHOD.

[johnriderjr0]

All of this starts with the oxygen sensor. Located in or near the manifold, the oxygen sensor sends O2 level readings to the car’s computer, which regulates how much fuel is needed in the engine. This helps determine the best fuel mixture and efficiency. Without a properly functioning oxygen sensor, the computer can’t calculate the air/fuel mixture, which affects the engine’s performance, and this can affect many other systems as a result. For instance, if you smell gasoline as you drive, check the oxygen sensor as soon as possible.

[bdimych]

Road junk and highway hazards aside, there are parts of the engine that rely on and contribute to the exhaust system that are not exposed to the onslaught of the outside world. The engine pistons are in their cylinders, busy making explosions, creating heat, and generating hot, noxious gases. The gases that result from all of this have to be pushed out of the cylinders, processed into environmentally friendly, legally acceptable emissions, and passed through a piping system, and finally out the tailpipe.

[books_kabuki]

The catalytic converter, even though it is on the underside of the car, sits cozily within its own secure, hard case just behind the engine. Once exhaust gases leave the cylinders and pass through the manifold, they flow into a single pipe toward the catalytic converter. This important piece comes after the exhaust manifold and serves to convert the harmful carbon monoxide and hydrocarbon gases into carbon dioxide and water vapor, making the exhaust safer for the environment. more

[MarianelaHuf8544]

Your car’s exhaust system is a network of connected pipes and parts designed to filter and route emissions from the engine compartment toward the rear of the vehicle. Five primary parts – oxygen sensor, exhaust manifold, catalytic converter, and muffler – are involved. Components are joined together with gaskets, or seals, to minimize leakage. As the engine burns gas to power your car, it emits gases containing water vapor, unburned fuel and acidic contaminants. The catalytic converter filters out most of the pollutants, converting the exhaust to a less toxic byproduct of carbon dioxide and water vapor. The exhaust then passes through the system of pipes, to the muffler, which all work to cool the exhaust and muffle the noise the system would make without all of these pieces in place.