See full version: Replacing UFP Bearings and Seals
2) Measure the spindle itself:
After removing the hub, using our calipers, measure the front bearing and rear bearing surfaces. Don’t be concerned if your spindle doesn’t appear the same as the sample photo below — these measurements will determine everything we must know.
If the bearing surface measures between 1.058 and 1.061, you have a 1-1/16” bearing.
If the bearing surface measures between 1.36 and 1.39, you have a 1-3/8” bearing. more
You will need calipers (Digital or Analog). A tape measure will not be sufficient in determining these diameters.
UFP hubs come in several configurations, different carrying capacities, and in both grease and oil bath style. Determine the bearing configurations first.
UFP (Unique Functional Products) is a popular manufacturer of axle and brake components for the marine trailer industry. UFP was recently acquired by the Dexter Axle Company, who has taken over their parts manufacturing. Just as the name implies, UFP parts are VERY unique. When compared to industry standards, their parts tend to be proprietary. Customers frequently contact us in need of assistance in replacing various UFP components. The intention of this blog is to clear up confusion when replacing UFP parts, and make things a little easier.
Was working on an older 3 bearing DV59, but now a 'newer' HSL also with bearing noise, and needing replacements.
The rear spindle bearing on most of these Hardinge machines has no way to tap on the race to remove it from the headstock casting. I think it's suggested to grind access slots with a die grinder to facilitate the use of a punch on the race, and tapping out the race.
Origionally from the hardinge forum, but 'universal enough' to be posted in General.
Removing a bearing race in a counter bore that has no reliefs to drive out the race:
I was told of another method, just tried it and it works slick.
Knock out the inner race, cage and balls (assuming your NOT using the bearing over again).
Crank your MIG welder up to medium heat, and run a quick bead part way around the inside of the outer race, carefully avoiding the casting.
Then if required, weld a couple small (5/16) nuts 180 degrees apart inside to the race also. Let it cool for 5 minutes. and tap it out. The casting will not even be warm, no harm done. No grinding required.
S pring is our time to recommission our fleet of four trailers, so I recently made the rounds to check the condition of lights, tires, axles, and bearings. I found that the grease in the bearings of one of our trailers had a milky brown appearance, rather than the clear, thick motor-oil appearance that it normally has. The change in color was an indication that water had found its way into the grease. Grease that has been overheated by friction-generated heat will be darker than new grease. With this trailer, it’s likely that the seals had failed and the bearing needed to be removed, cleaned, and inspected. The cleaned bearings or their replacements then get repacked with grease and reinstalled with new seals.
Ensure that the trailer tongue is well supported, either blocked up or hitched to a car with the parking brake on, and chock the far wheel. Jack the trailer up until the wheel is free to spin, and support the trailer with blocks or a jack stand, just in case the jack fails. Hold the tire on both sides and twist it back and forth. There should only be a little play. Then spin the wheel and listen to it. If it’s making any noise, it’s likely there is damage to the bearings and/or races. Lower the trailer until the tire makes contact with the ground, then loosen the lug nuts, jack the trailer up again and remove the wheel and tire. Any grease on the inside of the wheel’s inner rim is an indication of a failed seal.
Kent Lewis sails, rows, paddles, and motors a fleet of small boats in the Florida Panhandle. Through the years he and his wife Audrey have owned over 20 trailers and have fond memories of changing trailer bearings in Pecos, Texas, during the heat of summertime with two toddlers supervising.
The front bearing is relatively easy to get at. You remove the bearing hub cap and then remove the cotter pin and castellated nut. The entire hub will now come off with the bearings. I suggest you keep the hub mounted in the tire and wheel while working on it because it allows better control.
The problem you will face when building your trailer is that the inner bearing seal is installed. This means if you use a bearing seal puller or something worse like a screw driver to get it out you will destroy it.
Once the race is forced far enough through the hub the seal will pop out and the bearing will drop off so you should put a shop towel or crumpled paper towels under it to catch the bearing and seal. here