See full version: How to Remove Rust from Cast Iron
Use the potato the same way you would a scrub brush to rub in the salt, using circular motions to scrape away rust patches. Once the salt has turned an orangey-brown color, rinse out the salt, dry the pan on the stove, and repeat the process as many times as necessary. more
To get rust off a cast iron stove or tub, use a little bit of vinegar and something to scrub away the rust. Depending on how much rust there is on the stove, use either steel wool for smaller spots or a wire scraper for leverage when cleaning larger areas. here
When the iron gets wet, dry it thoroughly. Apply a light coating of oil to protect the surface from rust and keep your cast iron furniture looking shiny and clean.
When we talk about keeping an excessive amount of water off your cast iron products, we already know this is not the case with a raw cast iron fence. Fences and gates suffer all kinds of elements: extreme heat, snow, and, yes, rain. So while keeping your cast iron gate from rusting may seem like an effort in futility, it is still imperative to scrape away the rust as it forms. [links]
This article was co-authored by James Sears. James Sears leads the customer happiness team at Neatly, a group of cleaning gurus based in Los Angeles and Orange County, California. James is an expert in all things clean and provides transformative experiences by reducing clutter and renewing your home environment. James is a current Trustee Scholar at the University of Southern California.
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Cast iron pans and pots are prone to rust. Luckily, if you notice rust on cast iron, there are plenty of ways to remove it. It can be removed using salt if it's a small amount of rust. A larger amount of rust may require a vinegar soak. In the future, make an effort to care for your cast iron to minimize rust. more
Cast iron is so strong and durable, it can serve for a lifetime and beyond. Yet rugged as the material is, it only takes a little neglect to send it from stately black to reddish and wrecked-looking. Rust damage can arise from storing in a damp environment, failing to maintain good seasoning on cookware, or being lax about protective anti-rust painting on furniture. Thankfully, most of this is reversible surface damage, if you put in some time and elbow grease. So to make that skillet or garden bench heirloom-worthy, employ these trusty rust-busting moves.
By Donna Boyle Schwartz and Bob Vila | Published Sep 16, 2016 8:00 PM
Check the skillet for pits or craters. If lightly pitted, it might be fine with some extra seasoning, but deep pitting means your skillet is likely beyond repair. more
A solution of muriatic acid will remove scale, however, I would not use anything but water & a suitable tool to loosen anything in it. I'm with Bondo. New engine, new manifold/riser. If you are so confident with the condition of the old one. Bolt it back on your 7 year old engine when the new one is done, seven years will not harm it on the shelf, if properly stored . JK here
Gentlemen,<br />As a marine tech for most of my life, I can tell you that the number 1 reason without exception for a destroyed marine engine is the ehaust manifolds failing. hands down. Look in the discharge end of a manifold(or top of a center riser man.)You will see a large port for the exhaust in the middle surrounded by cooling passages. The center should be black and carboned up, the cooling ports usually rusty. if there is anything more than some minimal flash-rust in the center port TRASH IT. I REPEAT, TRASH IT. Flaking rust is a big red flag! Rust in the exhaust port is a clear indication that your manifold is leaking internally. bad enough while running, but when you shut down,the water runs into any cylinder which has an open exhaust valve. Cleaning an exhaust manifold is an invitation to catastrophic engine failure. and muriatic on cast iron is a big no-no, this will exacerbate any problem you already have and create problems you didn't have..DON"T DO IT. I have had several customers replace engines but just swapped the manifolds and destroyed brand new engines. a couple hundred bucks is a lot cheaper than a couple thousand for another engine. I pull the risers and check the ports once or twice a year,a five dollar gasket and some loctite 510 is a small price to pay to keep my engine safe. And even engines that have closed cooling are not immune from this problem, the raw water still exits via the exhaust system. Granted, salt water is harder on parts than say, lake water, but remember, even after you flush the engine on a trailer boat, the manifolds remain partially filled with water. Take a piece of cast iron and leave it out in your yard overnight if you want to see how long it takes cast iron to start corroding. In saltwater I see manifolds go away in as little as 2 years,fresh proportionally longer, but the fact that you mentioned that you have Log-style manifolds is the first clue that they are at the end of their serviceable life!<br />Do yourself a BIG favor and spring for new. <br />DON'T MESS AROUND WITH BAD MANIFOLDS ON A NEW ENGINE. If you don't want to take my word for it,ask any MARINE mechanic(not automotive)who makes his living repairing boats with more than a year or two experience. Seriously, bad manifolds make me way too much money. Don't let it happen to you. Good Luck and good boating.<br />Best Regards,<br />markvictor [links]
Re: Rust Removal from Manifold here
Re: Rust Removal from Manifold more
I hear you, but looking at the rust didn't concern me. I would not even bother if it looked like a lot of rust, I'd just get a new one, but I really don't think it will be a problem. Right now, my plan is to flush it with some high pressure water. more