[aranaahmed1]

With the frames now free of the boat, the real work began: cleaning and disassembling them prior to resealing the glazing. Our aim was to ensure all surfaces were clean and free of oil/silicone so that the primer and butyl sealant could bond properly to both frame and glass. Cut into the butyl all around the frame perimeter on both sides with a new Stanley knife blade. The butyl may be very hard, so white spirit can help soften it. Do this several times to full depth so the glass is released from the frame. more

[chariottrading]

Each frame was prepared for installation using Arbomast BR (one-pack) butyl sealant. This versatile material is intended for ‘covered’ sealing applications and is essentially non-setting, apart from an external skin which forms to a stiff chewing-gum-like consistency after a day or so. It cleans up easily with white spirit.

[TG12]

Leaking windows, drips and dampness are not fun on a boat: children complain, ‘other-halves’ become potentially mutinous and life becomes generally unpleasant every time it rains. Dampness pervades, and token attempts to put off the inevitable eventually expire in their effectiveness. Having tried silicone sealant, Captain Tolley’s and other alchemistic remedies, the plain facts become clear: the butyl sealant has irreparably broken down, and it’s time to reseal the windows properly.

[doublec]

Starting now with chemically clean frames and windows, it’s time to start reassembling everything. Drawing a quick ‘chocking’ diagram for each frame may well prove invaluable as a reference source here

[BeeCee1]

Now you are ready for the exciting part! You can start by using a primer, although it is not necessary with a fiberglass boat. Be sure that the primer you are using is compatible with the paint you’ve chosen. After you’ve applied one layer of primer, you can use a 300-grit sandpaper and lightly sand the boat before applying the next coat. You will want to begin painting within 2 hours of completing the primer for best results. more

[Cryptoman]

No matter how you plan to tackle your boat’s paint job, you can save a lot of money by doing it yourself. In addition, taking the time to care for your boat will give you an immense sense of pride. Make sure you use top-notch equipment and paint to achieve the best job possible. The trained professionals at Durabak are available to help you find the products that will work best for your needs - contact us today.

[JohnVChampion]

Last week we discussed how to paint your aluminium boat, but what about when you own a fiberglass boat or a Fiberglass HouseBoat ? There are some tips & tricks you can follow to paint a fiberglass boat yourself.

[friendartiste]

Wait for one to two hours after the first coat of Durabak (or follow your paint’s instructions) and remove any 3M blue tape that you’ve applied. Then proceed, with your second coat. Feel free to use a paint brush to get in those hard to reach corners. here

[syndicat.com]

1. Set up to work outdoors for sanding. During all steps of this process latex gloves and a respirator are recommended. Use blue painter’s tape to wrap around and protect handles and rope wraps.

[DerrickEaton]

I’ve slowly and stupidly been refinishing a wooden dory that was given to me since last summer. I’ve never done anything like it before and am findingthat it is a painstakingly slow process. I have also learned a great deal about wood in the process, some of which has to do with sanding and varnishing. There are many helpful tricks to make the process easier. If you’re the type of person who loves the way wooden oars row and or loves the way they look, it’s remarkably easy to bring back a beat-up pair to look almost new.

[Koon]

3. Blow sawdust off with canned air or compressor and clean with denatured alcohol.

4. Recover the rope wraps, handles or portions of the wooden oar you do not want stained with painter’s tape.

5. For the remainder of the process a indoor and as clean as possible a room will be needed. If the room is dusty or dirty the varnish will show lots of dust particles once dry. more

[tehlaser]

7. An oil-based stain is optional here depending on how you want your oar to look. Use a paintbrush manufactured for use with oil-based coatings. Wait 2 hours for the stained oars to dry. Add additional coats will make for darker results. If you like the natural look move right on to varnishing. [links]

[tuxsoul]

If it hasn't been in water for a long period it will leak no matter if the wood is good. here

[jago25_98]

They stock Pettit Seam Compound, which I haven't had personal experience of using but I have heard good reports from those who have used it.

[kathlemith24]

It takes about three days for the bottom of my 80 year cutter to tighten up if shes been out for a long time. [links]

[Sultan]

Have started to dig out the old caulking, which is hard as a rock.

[Prado]

It seems to be one of those, "if you ask at the counter they will bring it out" but don't advertize it.

[wlisabethfitzgeraldv]

wikiHow marks an article as reader-approved once it receives enough positive feedback. In this case, 95% of readers who voted found the article helpful, earning it our reader-approved status.

[DALDEI]

This article has been viewed 74,467 times. here

[William129]

wikiHow is a “wiki,” similar to Wikipedia, which means that many of our articles are co-written by multiple authors. To create this article, 17 people, some anonymous, worked to edit and improve it over time.

[Yort]

Any reasonably handy boat owner can caulk their own boat, there is no magic involved. On a new boat, with pristine seams between the planks, it is pretty straight forward. On an older boat the seams may be damaged and vary in width so, a little more care is needed. However, anyone with a modicum of commonsense will have no trouble doing a competent job. The main thing to be aware of is, not to over caulk, this could lead to strained frames as the planking ‘takes up’. here

[DevoJinx]

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