directair
03.05.2021 4:03:03
The other is epoxy resin, it can be used to lay fiberglass. but is strong enough to be used by itself too.
See full version: Epoxy sealing flooring plywood
The other is epoxy resin, it can be used to lay fiberglass. but is strong enough to be used by itself too.
A layer of glass over the wood will provide good abrasion protection. A layer of only resin will work, but if you scratch or gouge it, then it will need to be touched up. [links]
One is polyester resin and it's used for working on fiberglass boats and is what most people use when laying fiberglass. It is a weak resin that requires the use of fiberglass to strengthen it, by itself it's pretty much worthless.
A seal coat should only be needed for wood or otherwise porous materials. This prevents air bubbles from coming out of the substrate while the flood coat is applied later. To apply a seal coat, brush on, or apply a thin layer of epoxy to the surface. A few minutes after applying the seal coat, observe the sealed material. Apply more epoxy to areas that have absorbed the initial seal coat. Allow the seal coat to cure prior to applying the flood coats. here
Remember, these formulas don’t address epoxy needed to cover the edges or any losses from mixing or pouring. more
First, measure the piece. You’ll need to know length and width in inches. You’ll also need to know how thick you’d like the epoxy finish to be. Multiply these 3 measurements together to calculate the volume for the top of the table (or bar, or countertop) in cubic inches. To convert cubic inch volume to US fluid ounces, divide by 1.805. To convert ounces to gallons, divide by 128. more
It’s best to consider any epoxy coverage calculator a good starting point, but there are other factors and variables that might impact how much epoxy you will need. Porous surfaces that require a seal coat will increase the amount of resin needed. How are you handling the edges of the surface? You will need more if you are allowing epoxy to run over the edges, compared to building a dam or wall. And, you’ll probably lose a little to mixing or overflow. For most epoxy applications, 5-10% extra should be added to account for the inevitable wasted epoxy that stays on the stir stick, or stays in the bottom corners of the mixing cup, or accidental drips.
Most problems related to the curing of the epoxy can be traced to mixing the resin and hardener at the wrong ratio, a poor job of mixing the two components together, or some outside contaminant. It is imperative to dispense the proper amount of epoxy resin and hardener, whether it is by weight or by volume, and the two components must be completely mixed together. Resin or hardener rich areas will not cure properly, and usually stay sticky, or leave a different surface texture than properly cured epoxy. Grease, oil, wax, or any other foreign materials are considered contaminants and can leave irregular textures on the surface, a fish eye effect, or drastically slow the cure.
Thanks Ezmobee! that what I should probably go with, how much of that Resin did you use? or better yet how much do you think i would need? again its going to be 3' X 13' marine plywood. [links]
Re: Resin for Marine Plywood? here
My question is what do i need to do with it now?
Re: Resin for Marine Plywood? [links]
(Solvent-thinned epoxy takes longer to cure, but it makes wetting out the wood with epoxy MUCH easier, and stretches your "epoxy dollar" a bit)
Re: Resin for Marine Plywood?
This is the point where you foam the hull more
If you have left a hole for drainage in the peanut butter. just make sure that the hole is not glassed over.
if you have a ski locker, glass over the hole in the deck over the locker. but no need to resin coat the class that will be removed. just cut the glass after you have reached a full cure from the resin.
If you choose to go with double tabbing. make sure that your second, larger layer of csm and the final 6 oz woven will cover the second larger 1708 tab. more
Take one of the cut out pieces of deck you kept. re insert it back into the hole saw (with out the drill bit in the saw) and using 40 grit sticky back sand paper. stick the sand paper to the wood in the hole saw, re insert it into the drill . and sand the foam till you get to the depth of the deck. quickly check your work by placing a cut out back in the hole. a little too low is ok. high is not. make sure its flush with the deck. Do this to all the holes. here
Wet/dry sandpaper, 80- and 600-grit
Disposable 4-inch-wide brush
Work steadily until you finish the whole floor of the boat. Start early so you have time to finish it all in one day. As you work, the previous sections should not be hardened before you apply the gelcoat to the adjacent area. The gelcoat will harden in about four hours, but allow it to cure overnight before walking on it or buffing it.
Paint the gelcoat onto a selected area. Work in overlapping squares, mixing enough gelcoat for one square at a time. Watch for air bubbles in the gelcoat and pop them with a sharp instrument like a nail or a knife point. Bubbles will leave pinholes in the finish where dirt and debris can collect. [links]